3800 CAS?
- Thread starter thebullfrog
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Oh yeah, by CAS I meant CPS BTW. I still revert back to DSM terminology a lot LOL. But from my reading the car is a PITA to start back up after it dies from the CPS, so I dunno. I'll try the Fuel pump resistor trick (bending tab 85 or whatever) tomorrow. Looks like the CPS is pretty cheap which is good, but where the Hell is the thing at? I imagine it can't be all that hard to get at and change. I hope.
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
Well, it's not horrible news, but sounds like your problems may all be related. The MAF, front o2, and TPS all share the same circuit. This could explain shifting, cutting out, and fueling issues in one shot.
You may have a wire somewhere in that circuit broken internally that is causing all of these.
You may have a wire somewhere in that circuit broken internally that is causing all of these.
Yeah I was thinking that but heres the thing. Took it out tooling around C.L. this morning. I figured out how to kill the engine at will. Turn the steering wheel 180* to the right and press the gas AT ALL. Kills it every time. Car runs just fine until you turn the wheel right. Had it try and stall at idle once. Smells a bit rich at idle now (neg. fuel trims confirm this). But I could drive it around all day and not have a real problem till I try and turn right. Wiring problem near the steering rack?
Screw it. My mechanic has it now. It started to stumble and die whenever I just come to a stop. It almost got me killed when it decided to die in front of an oncoming Tahoe. A couple times it made that same noise it makes when you try and start an already running car just as the engine died. In the literally 2 blocks between my house and my mechanic it died 3 freakin times.
Why is it that EVERY time I have a prob. somebody asks me about the fuel filter? LOL. Nah it's cool, but the filter is only a few months old. As far as not being sure why it's doing strange crap, that's why I gave up and dumped it on my mechanic. Let him figure it out. He said the same thing that I and you guys thought, that it seems like the CPS would be the prob. but it still isn't acting right for that to be it.
Oh and I did run it without the MAF connected this morning. It ran so much worse that I figured the MAF should be fine. Didn't get chance to try the fuel pump resistor relay before it got so bad I just had to drop it off.
Oh and I did run it without the MAF connected this morning. It ran so much worse that I figured the MAF should be fine. Didn't get chance to try the fuel pump resistor relay before it got so bad I just had to drop it off.
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
It can kill it, seen it happen. Ryan's (Syp) car had a bad MAF connector that gave him some killer KR, and intermittant stalling. It may have been what killed his previous motors. Ed sent him out a new connector, we soldered it in and life was better. Although this may not just be the problem.
If you have a scanner, scan raw MAF frequency at idle. Tap the top of the MAF with a screwdriver handle. If the car sputters or stalls, and the MAF frequencies go nuts when you tap it, the MAF is bad.
It can kill it, seen it happen. Ryan's (Syp) car had a bad MAF connector that gave him some killer KR, and intermittant stalling. It may have been what killed his previous motors. Ed sent him out a new connector, we soldered it in and life was better. Although this may not just be the problem.
If you have a scanner, scan raw MAF frequency at idle. Tap the top of the MAF with a screwdriver handle. If the car sputters or stalls, and the MAF frequencies go nuts when you tap it, the MAF is bad.
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not tryin to bang heads, but in ryan's case, the connector was bad, not the maf itself. there could def. be a wiring problem that would be causing the problem, but the maf itself will not kill a car. it can make it run bad, hard to start, cough and whatnot, but it will run without it, thats why they have open loop
check out the problems section of http://www.grandprix.net/ i have seen a few issues with the car just totally shutting off, happened once to me, with the factory pcm. never with a dhp or equivilent. i assume you dont have the factory pcm?
FUUUUUCK!. Well my mech figured it out. It's the fuel pump. Not the pump itself but the whole module is shot. The pump just keeps shutting off. In fact my pump was probably never bad to begin with. I geuss that explains my unsolvable fueling issues. So I owe him $90 for figuring it out. Not bad. Cheapest place for the whole unit?
So I just picked my car up. Talked to my Mech. a bit more in depth about it. Turns out it's an issue that tends to crop up in that GM fuel pump design. Often enough that there is now a new module available that is ever so slightly redesigned to cure the problem. Said that keeping the tank full of gas should alleviate the prob. till I have the funds for a new module. Sure enough as soon as I filled the tank all the way up, the car runs perfectly. He said he drove around for a bit with a pressure gauge attatched, and just before the car would die, the fuel pressure would begin to fluctuate for a sec or 2 before before suddenly shutting down completely. Kinda odd, but apparently it's not unheard of. Oh well.
i really havent heard of this, and i work for gm. fuel pumps fail, but i havent heard about a bad batch of modules...not saying it doesnt happen, but i just dont hear about it. we work on a lot of 3x00's and dont have TOO much fuel pump troubles.
i think if it were me, id get an ed unit, or check out club gp, sometimes like 20-40 bucks
i think if it were me, id get an ed unit, or check out club gp, sometimes like 20-40 bucks
From my understanding it's rather rare and Delphi made a slightly revised version. Considering how unusual it is and the revised one my mech. tracked down (I don't know the part number) goes for over $500 I'll be getting the older version anyways. Rockauto has the Delphi for a bit over $300 and the Bosch, Airtex, etc. are less than that. I'll have to see what Morad would want for one, or see if somebody is doing a part-out, though I'd honestly prefer not to get a used one just to be sure I don't run into any problems.
I'll be getting the older version anyways. Rockauto has the Delphi for a bit over $300 and the Bosch, Airtex, etc. are less than that. I'll have to see what Morad would want for one, or see if somebody is doing a part-out, though I'd honestly prefer not to get a used one just to be sure I don't run into any problems.Thread Info
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