3800 Nasty vibration
- Thread starter thebullfrog
- Start date
I just spent sunday morning fixing the same problem with my car. It was the axle on the drivers side on my car. It cost me $80 at Lees autoparts. What sucks is that when I was taking off the axle I checked my ball joints and I need ball joints pretty bad too and tire rods.
Here is what I would do. Lift the car, take off both front tires and put the car on jackstands and put it on drive and go look on both sides. When you do that you will see/ hear exactly whats wrong (assuming you have mechanical experience)
If your close to bensenville I can take a look at it for you.
Here is what I would do. Lift the car, take off both front tires and put the car on jackstands and put it on drive and go look on both sides. When you do that you will see/ hear exactly whats wrong (assuming you have mechanical experience)
If your close to bensenville I can take a look at it for you.
Um, whats all this about getting louder and hearing noise. There is no noise. At least not that I've heard. I feel a nasty-ass vibrating (the whole car) but it's dead silent. Not a bad idea about watching the tires spin though, I'll give that a try as soon as I get the time.
Oh, and they're called TIE rods. Not tire rods. god it bugs me when people say that.... But I'm nowhere near Bensenville, so I'll have to trouble shoot on my own. I'll likely have my mech. do it for me, but it would be nice to find the culprit.
Oh, and they're called TIE rods. Not tire rods. god it bugs me when people say that.... But I'm nowhere near Bensenville, so I'll have to trouble shoot on my own. I'll likely have my mech. do it for me, but it would be nice to find the culprit.
go for a drive with a scan tool and see whether the shuddering happens when the TCC is locked i bet thats the problem, i've seen it only twice but it's a possibility
when the shuddering happens do this:
when shuddering LIGHTLY touch the brakes (just enough to lite up your brake lights) if the shudder disapears then i'd say it's 99% the TCC which will disengauge when the brake is depressed
it is also shut off (not locked up) when over a certain % of throttle
where you located?
when the shuddering happens do this:
when shuddering LIGHTLY touch the brakes (just enough to lite up your brake lights) if the shudder disapears then i'd say it's 99% the TCC which will disengauge when the brake is depressed
it is also shut off (not locked up) when over a certain % of throttle
where you located?
Um, the brakes? Get this. Went out logging. Was doing about 100MPH. Unexpected stop sign materialized from nowhere. Slammed on the brakes. Keep in mind they're pretty much shot. Got so hot the pedal went to the floor and I, well, wasn't stopping lol. Kinda rolled through the stop sign. Thank God it was the middle of the night. Car reaked of burning brake fluid. They were THAT hot. Vibration went away. I'm not kidding. It's like almost gone. It's hardly noticable now. I knew I had a warped rotor already, but it wasn't near bad enough to account for the way the car was shaking or so I thought. After toasting my brakes (they're trashed now) the rotor doesn't feel warped (braking is smoother) and the vibration is almost gone. I think I managed "unwarp" the rotor. Weird. We'll see what happens after I replace all the pads and rotors in a couple weeks, but I may have solved the problem.
I have a similar (maybe same) problem. My bushings on my control arm have rotted away. Nasty vibrations, but only when on the gas. I can be doing 90 and if I'm off the gas, it's silent. If I hit it though, it feels like my wheels are gonna fall off.
Midas and another mechanic both want $300+ to fix. For two little rubber bushings. I'm hoping I can find an alternative.
Let me know if this helps.
Mike
Midas and another mechanic both want $300+ to fix. For two little rubber bushings. I'm hoping I can find an alternative.
Let me know if this helps.
Mike
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