apparently you've never seen a CSC, which is nothing more than a turbo's compressor housing, and a gearbox to spin the thing fast enough to make boost.
That thing isn't even geared, nor does there seem to be any real reduction from the cog belt they're using to connect it to the alt...the thing would never spin fast enough to make much boost or move much air, not to mention the compressor housing itself is tiny relative to a properly sized CSC.
No gearing + tiny housing = no boost
SCAM
I will stick to my first post
h34r:
^^X2.
Which is why I said a CSC is a belt driven turbo. Not some cheap plastic looking POS in the shape of a turbo. The CSC has almost every aspect of a turbo.
The picture also shows their "turbo" to be half the size of an alternator. :lolsign: Might work well for a pocket rocket, but not a car.
Which is why I said a CSC is a belt driven turbo. Not some cheap plastic looking POS in the shape of a turbo. The CSC has almost every aspect of a turbo.
The picture also shows their "turbo" to be half the size of an alternator. :lolsign: Might work well for a pocket rocket, but not a car.
I
imported_1fastGTP
Guest
thats exactly what i was thinken so i thought id post this and see other comments. so you can stick to your 1st post because if this made you dumber... theres a problem with u. but i know theres people on here that will see this and be like "im going to buy it" because they think its the real thing thats cheaper than the rest. me i already have my turbo, and i know the concept of how everything works with these cars, but like i said i wanted to see what the deal was with this. so why not ask questions instead of putten people down with stating stupid shit.
I
imported_PaceCarBoozer
Guest
it's weird, it looks like it runs off of a belt from the back of the alternator, but if you read through the articles, they talk about it running off of it's own electric motor. Unless I'm wrong, I think the alternator runs a small generator on the back of the SC. It's kinda confusing how they explain how it works. It only works in short bursts with the push of a switch because the batteries need time to recharge. Seems like a lot of work and BS to deal with for little benefit.
I
imported_GraFFix
Guest
I guess I have a belt driven turbo too...
Man I really need a new pic...Ive cleaned the engine bay up alot since this pic was taken.
No more A/C, new radiator and billet hold downs, fixed the MSD box mount, repainted the front rail where the prop rod sits, removed the overflow bottle, re-painted the blower braket thats all rusty in the pic and polished everything up...man it looks like night and day now lol
Man I really need a new pic...Ive cleaned the engine bay up alot since this pic was taken.
No more A/C, new radiator and billet hold downs, fixed the MSD box mount, repainted the front rail where the prop rod sits, removed the overflow bottle, re-painted the blower braket thats all rusty in the pic and polished everything up...man it looks like night and day now lol
wait your plate wasnt stainless? allen's stang has the exact same kit from the looks of it and has the stainless plate (he has the ~8psi 1 piece crank pulley upgrade so maybe he upgraded the plate too...)
do you have as much of a bitch with the powerpipe install as we do? lol that damn 90* rubber elbow is a bitch to get on and tight and clear the vortec pipe and bypass valve
do you have as much of a bitch with the powerpipe install as we do? lol that damn 90* rubber elbow is a bitch to get on and tight and clear the vortec pipe and bypass valve
I
imported_GraFFix
Guest
Actually that plate was chromed before..or so it looked chromed. I had to take the blower off a while back to put in the new 3G alternator...very crappy design with that. But I fixed that by reversing the bolts that hold the alt. on..now I dont have to pull everything off to replace it if need be.
But when I took that plate off the front was all rusted but the back that was bolted to the other plate was still chromed. I just sanded the whole thing down and sprayed it with hi-temp aluminum looking paint..it came out great.
But about that 90 it wasnt to bad. I was more worried about getting a good seal behind the blower...you got to pretty much do everything blind behind it. I didnt have to mess with the powerpipe so I left it in place.
I just wish that the previous owner didnt paint the blower...one day ill have to take it off and have it polished. it annoys the hell out mf me being painted lol.
But when I took that plate off the front was all rusted but the back that was bolted to the other plate was still chromed. I just sanded the whole thing down and sprayed it with hi-temp aluminum looking paint..it came out great.
But about that 90 it wasnt to bad. I was more worried about getting a good seal behind the blower...you got to pretty much do everything blind behind it. I didnt have to mess with the powerpipe so I left it in place.
I just wish that the previous owner didnt paint the blower...one day ill have to take it off and have it polished. it annoys the hell out mf me being painted lol.
which 3G fit it? the 7.25 ear spacing? i have to get the larger 8inch ear spacing for one to bolt into my 68 390 i may have to go with two of em for the 150+ amps draw of stuff on my truck
got a link for the swap and PN or app? allen might be interested since he has a sub and power problems at idle...
got a link for the swap and PN or app? allen might be interested since he has a sub and power problems at idle...
I
imported_GraFFix
Guest
Back off topic cause this talk about belt driven "turbos" is just gay!
You know im not sure which 3G it is...I bought it off a group buy on the corral forums. It came as a kit, 4g wiring, inline fuse, powder coated alt housing I got blue even though it sits way on the bottom and you cant even see it lol. It is rated at 160A
Although I had to make a few modifications to get it to fit right since the previous owner of the car lowered it without caster/camber plates or changing the endlinks. So my endlinks were to long, on a 45 degree angle and twisting the swaybar up not leaving any clearance for the new bigger 3G...you know an easy Alt. swap can never go easy. lol
I fab'd up some spacers out of aluminum block for the sway bar mounts, picked up some new longer bolts and lowered the sway bar about 3/4" And bought some new shorter endlinks...Although once I bolted the sway bar back up with the new spacers the older endlinks were perfect. so I didnt even need the new ones.
Once that was done finally went to put the 3G in and noticed it was now hitting my useless smog pump that Im basically using as an idler pully..lol So out comes the Smog pump and a the ever popular angle grinder and I went to town on the smog pump housing.
After all that the 3g fit like a charm!
Although now Im having another issue with it...not enough belt wrap. When the charging system is under load I get alot of belt slip on the Alt...squeals like a pig. Its a known problem with guys with blowers and upgraded Alt's. Ive posted a few times and no one seems to have a clue they just "deal" with it...Well I say screw that so I have to figure out how to either fab up some type of tensioner down there or I was actually thinking of speed cutting the Alt. pulley. Even if I chew up a belt every few months or something I dont care...
Shit your like a mad scientist...maybe you have another idea. you seem to know the car pretty good. Id just like to have my headlights, stereo, elec. fans and heater all on at the same time without the car squealing...lol
as a matter of fact.... :lolsign:
on his GT we did an AC delete with the ford motorsports PS relocation (up near where the AC used to be)
because of this the belt tensioner (because of the blower plate) located near the thermostat housing would touch the belt to the wp pulley...no good
so i took a new ribbed pulley (with some pully standoff that i save in my magic bolt/part bin), found a location marked the bracket drilled it and bolted on the pulley just perfect for the belt to go under the tensioner pulley and clear the WP pulley by 3/4 of an inch...
his is using the smog pump (talk about a funky oil drain from the blower...i did some grinding to keep the drain hose happy) till it passes this next inspection then byebye! (oh the glorious room without the AIR system hoses and valves
) i would not doubt that you could find a spot on the blower plate that you can use a small idler pulley to get better belt wrap...especially if your smog pump was deleted...Thread Info
-
ICreated
-
21Replies
-
1KViews
-
Participants list
