3800 Making my own motor mounts

I

imported_Ron Vogel

Guest
I figured the driver's side upper would be the easiest, so I did it first. I made it so it's adjustable, and is a bolt on. Wasn't hard at all, but I still have the 2 lowers, and the pass side upper to do. Also, check out the STB I made. Trying to work out the STB's to be a WBS offering, if they can be a less expensive (and MUCH) lighter alternative to the BMR STB. The STB is stupid light for it's beefy construction.
motormount002.jpg



motormount001.jpg
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

Guest
looks like a mount that SHITENSE TURBO car had 3 years ago
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For this type of application I can see them doing this. It's a typical way to fashion a mount like this. I wish I could afford to make a motor plate for it, but since funds are low I'm using heims and tube. A motor plate may be a little harsh on the street anyway.

I'm still hesitationg to do the pass side. I have to relocate the vac pump, remove the AC, fab a new pulley wrap system, and find a way to run all the idler/tensioners without having the coil bracket on.
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

Guest
IIRC Steve Mayes on clubgp only runs one upper motor mount. His son is always praising his car and says that only one mount didnt really affect reliablility even when at the track.
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I can believe that, but I'm still making a second one. I've cracked a block in the past from twisting (400 V8). I wouldn't trust only one mount unless my lowers were solid (they are), but still want equal support on both sides.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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A motor plate may be a little harsh on the street anyway.[/b]
anything is streetable if your willing to drive it :)

I'm still hesitationg to do the pass side. I have to relocate the vac pump, remove the AC, fab a new pulley wrap system, and find a way to run all the idler/tensioners without having the coil bracket on.
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what do you think of an all in one bracket for a Vac pump and a mech IC pump? one could be set up as a mechanical tensioner.... at least for those of us not using the conventional ICM mounting spot or ignition system ;)
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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I can believe that, but I'm still making a second one. I've cracked a block in the past from twisting (400 V8). I wouldn't trust only one mount unless my lowers were solid (they are), but still want equal support on both sides.
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400 eh? i'd love to hear about that one...
ditto, i would still run two dogbones for more structural support, remember fella's the goal is the transfer the power to the chassis and straight to the track...why leave a weak link in the chain?

Best: solid motor plate mounting
Great: 4 corner solid mounts or two axial mounts with Tq limiting links (damn near the same effect)
If'y: a single Tq limiting link
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

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400 Pontiac V8, cracked the lifter valley. Had to chuck it. Got a mid '70's 400 block to replace it, then had the mains oversized to accept a 428 crank, and bored it .060 over. Had a Mechanical cam similar to a RA IV grind, with '68 #16 heads (RA 3)...found them at the boneyard at 173 and rt 83; only charged me $75! Rest was basic, torker 2 intake, 750 mechanical sec, had trouble fitting 4 tube headers in a '79 Cutlass chassis, but got them in.

Backed up by a TH350 (built), custom aluminum driveshaft, and Chrysler 8 3/4" rearend (741) with 4.30 posi.

I also lightened the crap out of the car, wasn't really a safe street car at 2600 lbs!

It had it's day, but never made it to the track. I used it for trips to Dukes, and street racing on the SS back in the late 80's/early '90s.

Technology was pretty limited for Pontiac stuff back then. The most exotic stuff was the oil control stuff I did to it, and the locked out HEI run by an MSD ign controller. If I had to guess, it was probably a solid mid 11 sec car on street tires. IF I built the same car today, it would probably be easy 10's at that weight.
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

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<div class='quotemain'>
It had it's day, but never made it to the track. I used it for trips to Dukes, and street racing on the SS back in the late 80's/early '90s.
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Dukes. I remember my stepdad always wanted to goto that place on Saturday nights when I was a kid. Always took his 69 GP when he had it.
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You used to have to have a really nice ride to get in there, but the scene really went south when riced out Z24's were showing up, parking in the front row. Is Duke's even in business anymore?

I'd show up to Duke's between 8-9pm to get parking, then keep my hood popped to hook some suckers. When Dike's closed, everyone would head north to the Cub's foods lot, then work out races. between 1-4am, caravans would head down south to the forest preserves to race. It was pretty cool, I even did it on the weekdays.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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pontiac eh? here i was thinking sbc lol

the cutlass shoulda had the 8.5 inch 10 bolt why did you need to go with the mopar axle? just for the captured axles vs C clips?

i had my favorite engines in two cars i had in highschool, 84 buick lesabre 307 died on 200hp of nitrous in went the 403 (mild) and then had a 74 cutlass 350 rocket (boy did i have fun with that one)

i have a narrowtrack D44 for the Nova from my 75 cj5 so i can fit the 14 inch rims and the massive ET drags in my garage i'll eventually get the 4 link done....
 
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imported_Ron Vogel

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I heard the 8 3/4 was more efficient than the Ford 9", and the axle width was right for the Cutlass, so I kept my eyes out for one. Me and a buddy had a booth for a swap meet, and I made enough to get a refreshed one with the posi and gearing for less than what I made at the meet at another booth. I got the axle housing in a "discard" bin outside of Hub Auto for free! It was just a matter of having the mounts added to the axle (had a shop do it) and the custom driveshaft.

I don't remember the ring size stock, but IIRC it was 7.5" not 8.5. This car originally had a 260 Olds in it (got the car for a whopping $250)
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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thats what i love about this sport...half the fun is in the buildup and engineering parts to work together that were never intended to (free parts kick ass heheh)

yeah almost any axle is more efficient than the 9inch...the extra nose bearing on the pinion increases the power required to turn it but is good for strength when your in the numically higher ratio's with a small pinion tooth count (weaker pinion)

i can see how they put the weak 10bolt in it if it had the weasly 260

we lucked out with the 73/74 nova in that it had the 307 and came with the 8.5 10bolt (which i lincoln locked when i put in the 4.10's)

i'm worried about the axles so i got the D44 plus it's narrow enough to run the 14 inch wide jeep rims i have and still clear the fenders
 

mcshocks

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Jun 12, 2008
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Dukes is still around, I go there almost everytime I am in the chicago area for there beef. Mount looks decent, before you know it your whole car will be made of heim joints :lol: . On a side note if you guys are gonna offer the STB's you should think about a few other things, like selling a mounting plate for the gm STB but for the rear as no one sells one and everyone just uses one bolt (ghetto) on the back one.
 

SaturdaysGS

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Jul 15, 2007
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On a side note if you guys are gonna offer the STB's you should think about a few other things, like selling a mounting plate for the gm STB but for the rear as no one sells one and everyone just uses one bolt (ghetto) on the back one.
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Visit the 2004+ section of ClubGP and find DonRome. he makes brackets for the rear STB.
 

M@

Somebody buy this thing
Nov 26, 2007
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looks like a mount that SHITENSE TURBO car had 3 years ago
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Yep, am I the only one who remembers them breaking motor mounts the first 5 outings?

Creative, but I doubt they're going to be reliable in the long run under slick tire track usage. Hopefully I'm wrong, but I know the Ohio boys had alot of problems using heim joints for motor mounts.

I've tossed around the idea of adding a passenger side Heim mount since I run a bonne bracket that removes the passenger side dogbone, but I guess it boils down to me being lazy, and not caring enough. That will change when the aluminum drivers side mount breaks though I guess :ph34r:
 
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