3800 brakes....who can help???
- Thread starter Partyhardoo69
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Did you get a new brake caliper or a reman? If it is a reman try replacing that again. Also try bleeding the brake lines i know it doesn't make sense but if the fluid is extremely bad then it could cause some issue. I have never really heard of a problem with master cylinders on f body's (not that I hear much about them).
Your emergency/parking brake cable is probably sticking, try disconnecting that temporarily and see if that fixs it.
thank you very muchOriginally posted by Blownbyyou+Aug 28 2006, 06:19 PM-->Hahaha, I will try and think of more stuff.
yeah im about to go in the garage to do that...dinner is almost ready tho
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im going CRAZY with all this stuff....ive had my wheels off 10+ times in the last week trying to figure this stuff out...would air in the master cylinder cause this?
It sounds like the slider pins are getting stuck. This is a fairly common problem on floating caliper systems. I presume you replaced just the caliper and not the bracket. If that's the case you may need to drill out the caliper bracket and use larger pins. Probably the easier/ cheaper route to take is to simply replace the caliper bracket and floating pins.
SYP, your problem is almost certainly the same. The rear calipers on the SHOs are known to get stuck on the brackets. Same fix applies for you.
SYP, your problem is almost certainly the same. The rear calipers on the SHOs are known to get stuck on the brackets. Same fix applies for you.
Originally posted by Partyhardoo69@Aug 28 2006, 07:31 PM
yes the car still has abs
Just got done bleeding the entire system..from the master cylinder to every calliper....same exact thing...
any more ideas
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Do me a favor and look at the master cylinder and see how many lines come out and where they go. If it only has 2 lines ( 1 front and 1 back) than its safe to assume it is something else. With the wheel off try and slide the caliper and see how much play you have (might want to disconnect the brake line. (will have to be bleed again). This will tell you if that its slides or a possibly a proportioning valve.
Not hard to replace the ebrake depending on rust, but first disconnect (pretty simple) and see if the problem goes away. This way you can check slides also.
AGS Silglide....
have you done a flow test?
i have had instances of the metal brake lines rusting on the inside or being crimped (wrong jack placement etc) this causing the fluid to slowly release pressure giving you a sticking caliper...
take both front wheels off get some hose (fits over bleeder screw) and place each hose in an identical glass (tall shotglasses work great and the brake fluid is readily cleaned from glass)
open both bleeder screws the same # of turns, place the hose on the nipple, the other end into the containers and give the brakes a quick stab...compare the amount of fluid...and the rest you can figure from there but basically the line with the restriction is gonna cause the other side to recieve a majority f the fluid
remember brake fluid is hygroscopic and when it isnt flushed the moisture can cause corrosion on the inside of the lines, this is why i flush my brakes ~every 2 years
the other test is a relief test...have an assistant press the pedal down and while trying to turn the suspect rotor have them release the pedal...how long till you can turn the rotor? compared to the other side? now go back to the suspect unit and do the same but when the pedal is released (assistant says "off" when they release the pedal) crack the blleder screw loose and see how fast the rotor releases at that point...if it's a slide or piston sticking nothing will change but if it's residual pressure causing the issue youll get a squirt of fluid and the rotor will spin easily right away...
i'm at work today if you have questions...1 till close (except lunch) 630 736 2866 ask for schlim...
regards, james
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