3800 son of a bitch

[GTPquickRB]

Well theres a bolt stuck in my rear manifold......i mean stuck. I cut off both ends and drill through it. I jam an e-z out into it. I start cranking on the ez out, must not have been in far enough. I broke the e-z out in two. One half is right beside me, the other have is stuck in the goddamned bolt. Can't drill it out, cause its not flat and shit.....ive been at it for an hour and it's not fucking moving. So my rear PEM is fucked and I can't install it.

Bumpin it was the bolt you had left in when you sold me the PEM's. I guess you couldnt get it out either.

So yeah. I'm pissed. Can I have the downpipe welded to the rear PEM? Will I be able to get it back in the car? I'm fucking pissed right now cause the drill bits i have aint doing jack. Titanium my ass :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:

Torched them, WD40'd the bolt to death. Pounded on it to the point my ears hurt like hell.

WTF!!

Ported and Polished, and they looked all purdy cause I cleaned them up.....i'd love to drill it out and just throw a bolt thru it, but like i said, the bits aint working. It's a 3/8" hole. Do I try a screw type bolt remover? Go to a bigger EZ out and pound the first one out?? I'm trying everything, and nothing is working. I've wasted way too much time on this.

Anyone have an idea of what to do?

30 bucks and 2 hours later, im worse off than I started, and possibly out a manifold.

Anyways - Thanks Mike K for the refund, and today I found out I got an 8 thousand dollar scholarship from Jim Meyer - thats my tuition at U of I.

Some help here!?!? Thanks!

Click to read more...

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

well right now i am next to my garage in hanover park IL, and if i cant get it out, we can run up to palatine and i can use my plasma cutter and slice the fucker out
20 amp setting is a bit more surgical than the 60 amp 220v setting so it would be ok....

 

[GTPquickRB]

haha

thanks - but right now it's a little to late for me to head over that way. On top of things I can't make it out there tommorow cause of work. I'm gonna see what I can do saturday, cause my dad is gonna help me, but if that doesn't work, I'll be back here begging for your help. And could I see the car(s)??

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Originally posted by 98GTPquickRB@Aug 3 2006, 09:55 PM
haha

.......I'll be back here begging for your help.  And could I see the car(s)??

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Oh you may well be doing that...i do wish ya the best luck getting it on your own...

and yes...the Plasma cutter is in the garage with the 442...recieving cosmetic work, before fabrication begins on the rear turbo, I have most of the 3800 SII we will be throwing in the front...

 

[beyerch]

try heating the entire area (i'll let you figure out how ) and then take a can of compressed air and hit the bolt for a good 5 to 10 seconds. Between the expanding of everything else from the heat and the contracting from the cold of the compressed air, I would hope it will help you get it loose.

You have to act fast though

 

[GTPquickRB]

awesome idea - i'll throw them in my oven. I'll see if the spray paint holds up :lol:

 

[98 TGP TOY]

Did you grind the bolt even with the exhaust flange? If not, there are Bolt-Outs you can get that look like a socket. You hammer it onto the outside, they cut into the bolt, and you can turn it off. I use them to remove half a dozen frozen studs in the rear manifold.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes

If you grounded it even...then you only shot is what charles said, or drilling/torching it out.

Good luck.

Mike

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

I still vote Plasma cutter...lol

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Yeah, you have to get the heat on them, then penetrating oil, then a pipe wrench before you break it. Once it's even with the flange, it's real rough to get it out.

You need to drill at a low speed, I'm assuming you just used the highest setting on your drill (typically 2500 rpms...way too fast) this will harden the bolt, and dull the bit. You need to drill at like 250 to 500 rpms max, and use WD40 to lubricate the bit as you drill. This will go through it like butter.

 

[M@]

Originally posted by Ron Vogel@Aug 4 2006, 12:09 PM
Yeah, you have to get the heat on them, then penetrating oil, then a pipe wrench before you break it. Once it's even with the flange, it's real rough to get it out.

You need to drill at a low speed, I'm assuming you just used the highest setting on your drill (typically 2500 rpms...way too fast) this will harden the bolt, and dull the bit. You need to drill at like 250 to 500 rpms max, and use WD40 to lubricate the bit as you drill. This will go through it like butter.

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Truf B)

Hi-speed drilling will do nothing but eat bits...

I've also had good luck with flattening 2 sides of the shaft of the bolt with a dremel and stone, and then turning it out with vise-grips. Lots of penetrating oil of course.

MT

 

[GTPquickRB]

so high speed is bad......that explains alot.......shit

 

[slow04ss]

Get a cobalt drill bit. Only a bit made for "heavy metal" will do anything.

 

[slow04ss]

durka durka meant hard metals.

 

[GTPquickRB]

Well my drill bits made for metal, wood, and plastic are now only good for the last two, and I ended up using that cobalt drill bit. Taped the bolt out to 3/8ths and put a stud in it. All I now is it was a huge hastle. On the bright side, I have the 3" pipe welded to my downpipe, which goes to my 3" to 2.5" reducer, which will soon be hooked up to the rest of my exhaust.

Oh, whats an 02 sim do? Can't I just disable it with my powertuner? Or will I get bad readings and it could throw off my car? I assume just unplugging it will not change anything other than make me throw a code which can be taken care of.