3800 AFC
- Thread starter Blownbyyou
- Start date
First of all, what is the SES code? A bad MAF sensor will do what you described, and an AFC can't fix that.
Secondly, what TYPE of AFC is it, i.e. 1.0, 1.1, 2.0....etc
Thirdly, if it is a:
1.0, throw it away, those are more trouble than they're worth
1.1, do BOTH LED's light up when the car is on? If not, there is a wire loose on the AFC somewhere, and the connections need checked.
2.0 or higher, does the digital display power up when the car is started? (the thing should light up and say AFC 2.0 when the car starts). If it does, then it definitely has power, and that isn't an issue.
Third off, if all checks out above, and the unit has power, will changing the settings on the sensor create any changes to the MAF signal or LTFT? Say for instance the car has ~4 LTFT when cruising, will bumping the unit up 2% alter that LTFT at all?
A scan of normal driving, and some idling wouldn't hurt either. A sure fire way to test if it's the AFC or the MAF would be to simply remove the AFC from inline with the MAF wiring, and see if the car runs right. If the car runs right without the AFC in place, that is the problem. If the car runs like crap with the AFC out, unplug the MAF. If it runs right with the MAF unplugged, the MAF is the root problem.
I've been using an AFC for over 3 years, first the AFC 1.1, and now the 2.0 so I have a decent amount of experience with them, and troubleshooting them. I can't guarantee I'll remember to check this thread, so if you have any other questions that I didn't answer above, by all means, PM me and I'll do my best to help out.
Best of luck
MT
Secondly, what TYPE of AFC is it, i.e. 1.0, 1.1, 2.0....etc
Thirdly, if it is a:
1.0, throw it away, those are more trouble than they're worth
1.1, do BOTH LED's light up when the car is on? If not, there is a wire loose on the AFC somewhere, and the connections need checked.
2.0 or higher, does the digital display power up when the car is started? (the thing should light up and say AFC 2.0 when the car starts). If it does, then it definitely has power, and that isn't an issue.
Third off, if all checks out above, and the unit has power, will changing the settings on the sensor create any changes to the MAF signal or LTFT? Say for instance the car has ~4 LTFT when cruising, will bumping the unit up 2% alter that LTFT at all?
A scan of normal driving, and some idling wouldn't hurt either. A sure fire way to test if it's the AFC or the MAF would be to simply remove the AFC from inline with the MAF wiring, and see if the car runs right. If the car runs right without the AFC in place, that is the problem. If the car runs like crap with the AFC out, unplug the MAF. If it runs right with the MAF unplugged, the MAF is the root problem.
I've been using an AFC for over 3 years, first the AFC 1.1, and now the 2.0 so I have a decent amount of experience with them, and troubleshooting them. I can't guarantee I'll remember to check this thread, so if you have any other questions that I didn't answer above, by all means, PM me and I'll do my best to help out.
Best of luck
MT
I dont remember the exact code, but when I unplug my afc the problem goes away and the car runs fine..
2.0
The display does light up and it does say afc 2.0
I will get it scanned when syp can help me out
I did that and the car ran fine.
I've been using an AFC for over 3 years, first the AFC 1.1, and now the 2.0 so I have a decent amount of experience with them, and troubleshooting them. I can't guarantee I'll remember to check this thread, so if you have any other questions that I didn't answer above, by all means, PM me and I'll do my best to help out.
Best of luck
MT
well im guessing you ran the extention wires threw the firewall.. check all the wires to make sure none of them are arc-ing on the wall its self. if you went under the drivers side buy the steering boot, there are many things to melt on passing things threw there
this has happen ot me ...now i just have 20 things passing threw the passenger side still never heard of ses light coming on cause of that tho.
this has happen ot me ...now i just have 20 things passing threw the passenger side still never heard of ses light coming on cause of that tho.
One wire is 12V positive reference, one is ground and one is Signal. The signal wire is obviously the problem IF it's a wiring issue.
SINr247, the housings aren't the problem, nor are the soldered joints, it's the edit switch itself, and the microprocesser that runs the unit that are the 2 problems. If the problem is heat related, the unit won't power on, or flash AFC 2.0 when it starts. If it's a problem with one of the switches, it will either not enter edit mode, or will only function in non-enhanced mode.
It sounds to me that you have a poor connection in the signal wire. I'd suggest you check the resistance across the splices on both sides. I'd imagine either one of the splices has poor contact, or the insulation has come off one side of the wire and it's grounding itself.
BTW, the signal wire is the YELLOW wire, start the troubleshooting with that wire.
MT
SINr247, the housings aren't the problem, nor are the soldered joints, it's the edit switch itself, and the microprocesser that runs the unit that are the 2 problems. If the problem is heat related, the unit won't power on, or flash AFC 2.0 when it starts. If it's a problem with one of the switches, it will either not enter edit mode, or will only function in non-enhanced mode.
It sounds to me that you have a poor connection in the signal wire. I'd suggest you check the resistance across the splices on both sides. I'd imagine either one of the splices has poor contact, or the insulation has come off one side of the wire and it's grounding itself.
BTW, the signal wire is the YELLOW wire, start the troubleshooting with that wire.
MT
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