3800 CV axle/boot/joint

[SaturdaysGS]

The boot, on my passenger side cv axle is leaking the grease out, and is starting to make a grinding when the wheel is turned either left or right, right near the lock.

Now I'm wondering how much this would roughly run to have fixed? I imagine at 122k they would bypass repairing the boot, and just go ahead and replace the whole thing. Am I correct in this assumption?

Or.. is there anyone that can do this for me relatively soon? and for nominal fee of course.

-Nick

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[00 GTP Debadged]

As long as it is not damaged, you can swap out the boot. Assuming you are talking about the inner one. You can get a good replacement from zzp. It is a pain, but doable. You can see if there are any club members that can help.


Randy

 

[BumpinGTP]

Easiest thing to do is go to Napa and get a complete replacement half shaft. They are $50, plus a $50 core charge that you get back when you bring in your old one. I can swap axles in about 30 minutes if you need it done.

 

[SaturdaysGS]

I'll get back to you on this Bumpin, I forgot the grinding is actually a rubbing plastic fender guard I moved while getting a wrench that fell, and never moved back, but I do know that some grease is leaking from the axle.

 

[Sinister Drag Designs]

hey bumpin,i need the same thing.how much do you charge

 

[Royalgtp]

yeah, ive also heard just do the whole axle at one time anyway.


Steve, how much would you charge in llabor per side?

I might just do it for preventative measures and I need my tie rods done...

...doing them today.......

 

[BumpinGTP]

I will do them for $40 per side or $75 for both.

 

[CoolGTX]

i'll have the race axles in, in 2 weeks..

 

[Toasty]

yah, like bumpin said, just go ahead and replace the whole thing... cheaper in the long run...
of course, assuming that there is a decent sized tear in the boot... if ther is only a slight tear, and is not an old one, you may be able to save the joint, but will require inspection.... basically the problem with just replacing the boot is this... boot rips, you drive around, dirt/debris gets kicked up into the grease, the grease circulates around the bearings in the joint, and the dirt/debris gets inbetween parts and will scratch and mar the surfaces... over time this will lead to a bad joint, sometimes faster than others, so you'll end up paying to have the whole thing replaced anyways.

installation is not too terribly difficult, with the right tools and some smarts...

support car, jack up, remove wheel, loosen/remove retaining nut on end of axle.
loosen retaining nut on end of tierod end (remove key where applicable)
use hammer to tap upwards against nut to free tierod end from spindle assembly.
remove nut and remove tierod end.
loosen ball joint retaining nut (remove key as needed)
use hammer to loosen baljoint from spindle assembly.
remove nut from balljoint
use prybar to remove balljoint from spindle assembly
you should be able to pull hub/strut assebly out away from the axle.
once axle is free from spindle assembly, use prybar to gently pull the axle from the trans.
do not move or jossle car while axle is removed, you do not want to mis-allign the internal parts...

put some trans fluid on end of new axle, and push slowly into trans housing, once most of the way in, push harder until you hear/feel it pop into place.
installation of other parts is reverse of removal....




-hth

 

[migs109]

So is it ok to get the SFPH HQ 4T65E HD Half Shafts from ZZP and use them on my daily driver?