3800 Car won't start after SC install

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imported_Diavolo

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Saturday I installed a PnP SC and sealed everything up

Sunday I go to start the car and it won't start, I try again and it doesn't start so I look and see coolant dripping from the TB. The cheap gasket was leaking. I sealed it up with RTV and let it sit 24 hours and tryed to start it again. No coolant was leaking this time but it still wouldn't fire up.

The engine would just chug and sound like it wanted to start but wouldn't.

I pulled the injectors and there was gas in them so I didn't damage the injectors.

I pulled the spark plugs and there is black dirt/gunk on them.

I don't know what this means. All the sensors were plugged back in and the vacuum lines were put back as well.

Any suggestions on what the problem could be?

Thanks
-Mike
 
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imported_Diavolo

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Thanks J/O, I tried that (twice) but still no luck :(

I rechecked EVERYTHING (not much was taken off since not much needs to for the SC).

Is this a combustion problem? Should I take pictures of my spark plugs so you can see them? I put new ones in, started the car, pulled them, and they had gas on them but there looked like some dirt too. I covered up the injector holes while working on the SC.

Thanks
-Mike
 

CoolGTX

let sleeping dogs lie
Nov 17, 2008
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J/O
Originally posted by Diavolo@Aug 8 2005, 07:36 PM
Thanks J/O,  I tried that (twice) but still no luck  :(

I rechecked EVERYTHING (not much was taken off since not much needs to for the SC). 

Is this a combustion problem?  Should I take pictures of my spark plugs so you can see them?  I put new ones in, started the car, pulled them, and they had gas on them but there looked like some dirt too.  I covered up the injector holes while working on the SC. 

Thanks
-Mike
[snapback]94507[/snapback]​
just a long shot, check and make sure your ICCU settings are still the same. So your Not flooding out the car.
 

J.E.T.

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Nov 10, 2008
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How long are you trying to crank it? If you sucked in coolant or flooded the engine, it might take up to 10 seconds of cranking time.

When you take out the plugs, are they wet from fuel? If so, then the engine is flooded. The plugs need to be dry in order to fire.

Remove plugs again and crank to slosh out any remaining coolant. Reinstall clean, dry plugs. Remove air box and just keep the f-duct. Spray a little starting fluid in the air duct. Make sure your battery is still good. Crank crank crank. It will start.

J.E.T.
 
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imported_Ron Vogel

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I had a similar problem with a car I was working on once. It was a Olds 88 with a 3800 in it. The Upper intake manifold had the EGR problem where coolant gets sucked in, so I replaced the upper manifold. After the install the car wouldn't start, and burned out the starter trying. Changed plugs...basically tried everything. I hooked the scanner up and IPW's were in the 70ms range!
Needless to say, and we don't know why, but the FPR went bad during the manifold swap...Changed it out and car started right up.
 
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imported_Diavolo

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ok I will try some of those tips. Also, I installed a SC with the EGR blocked and I also have the coolant blocked to the TB (because of LS1 tb adaptor)

Will these two things cause problems? I still have my egr system on the car just the SC is blocked off.

thanks
-Mike
 
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imported_Diavolo

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Ron, My ipw's start at 15 and rise all the way up to 35 will trying to crank it. When you say you replaced the FPR you mean fuel pump resistor? I have mine bypassed currently by bending out the pin in the fuse box under the hood.


I currently cranked my car for about 20 seconds but aren't I still flooding the engine with fuel since the injectors are still spraying?
 
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