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imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
You need to get your fueling right for idle and regular driving first. Then move on to WOT fueling; where you are only going from a stop into PE mode. Then work on the AE aceleration enrichment. That's where you'll get rid of the KR that happens when you blip the throttle while cruising.
It'll take a while to get it right. I've been battlling some pesky KR for about a month now, and I think it's finally gone. I've done about 20 revisions to the fueling, and you need to drive for a day with the new tune to really see what it's doing. Export logs to Excel and compare Vac (Kpa), IPW, KR, timing, 02, LTFT, MAF, RPM. That should be what you need to monitor to get it dialed in.
I like to start with a stock MAF table, and tune the IFR first. Once that's close the rest can be tweaked in the MAF table.
It'll take a while to get it right. I've been battlling some pesky KR for about a month now, and I think it's finally gone. I've done about 20 revisions to the fueling, and you need to drive for a day with the new tune to really see what it's doing. Export logs to Excel and compare Vac (Kpa), IPW, KR, timing, 02, LTFT, MAF, RPM. That should be what you need to monitor to get it dialed in.
I like to start with a stock MAF table, and tune the IFR first. Once that's close the rest can be tweaked in the MAF table.
I posted on dhp pt forum, and was told to tune with the maf and not touch the ifr table unless using different injectors. I tried tuning the maf, but my fueling went crazy. yesterday, i tried adjusting my idle up a bit, but it wasn't moving up at all. I bumped it up 10 percent but was still pegged at +16. I will probably mess around with it a little more tomorrow though.
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
Everybody has their own way to do it, but I tried it a couple of different ways, and like to mess with the IFR first. Once you screw around with the MAF table, very screwy things start happening. Of note, I was tuning with the MAF table, and my MAP started reading choppy. I put the MAF back to stock, and my MAP problems went away. Also, there is a point you can go too far with the MAF, and it'll max out the injectors. The IFR has not given me that sort of trouble.
Zack,
If you want to tune using the IFR table , you will need to scan MAP (kpa) also, and then change the areas of MAP (kpa) that correspond to your LTFT's..
The table goes from 0kpa to 100kpa , in 10kpa increments (At least for us '97-'03 cars).
20-30 kpa normally equals idle
30-90 kpa is cruise
100kpa and higher is boost
Lower numbers = less fuel = lean out things
Higher numbers = more fuel = richen out things
Make SURE you keep your IFR table as smooth as possible, as no large gaps between 0-100kpa.
If you want to tune using the IFR table , you will need to scan MAP (kpa) also, and then change the areas of MAP (kpa) that correspond to your LTFT's..
The table goes from 0kpa to 100kpa , in 10kpa increments (At least for us '97-'03 cars).
20-30 kpa normally equals idle
30-90 kpa is cruise
100kpa and higher is boost
Lower numbers = less fuel = lean out things
Higher numbers = more fuel = richen out things
Make SURE you keep your IFR table as smooth as possible, as no large gaps between 0-100kpa.
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
Higher # in the IFR will give you more flow, lower # will reduce flow. I don't know how the '98s are set up, but the '00 starts at a higher # and goes lower as boost rises. This is to account for fuel pressure rising with boost, since our regulator is boost referenced. The table is in Kpa, that's why I include it in my scans. Then it can be referenced to adjust, anything over 100Kpa is boost.
My table is very odd, but works good. I start high, go low, and bring it up again as it goes into boost. Most of the time on the street you never get over 60Kpa when just driving normally. I'm doing this so it runs clean, and gets good milage. Then it ramps up richer as I go into boost. I drive a 30 mile trip thats all stoplights, and average 20-25 MPH the whole way on the way to work. After some twaeking I'm getting 23.5 MPG right now, I haven't checked Highway, but it should be about 32-34.
My table is very odd, but works good. I start high, go low, and bring it up again as it goes into boost. Most of the time on the street you never get over 60Kpa when just driving normally. I'm doing this so it runs clean, and gets good milage. Then it ramps up richer as I go into boost. I drive a 30 mile trip thats all stoplights, and average 20-25 MPH the whole way on the way to work. After some twaeking I'm getting 23.5 MPG right now, I haven't checked Highway, but it should be about 32-34.
ya, i know what you are saying. i was hopeing the 2.8 would lean me out on top, but i don't think it is. i think i am going to go back to the 3.0. i still need to learn how to tune and with the 3.0, things weren't messed up so much. maybe once i get some bigger injectors i can move down to the 2.8. thanks for all your help