3800 BT TK Intercooler install problems...

Mike K

TCG Elite Member
Apr 11, 2008
13,214
2,586
If anyone here is familiar with this particular setup, we have some questions. The hood won't close! :) I ground down the brace, ground down the boss on the top of the rails, and it's still getting caught up at the hood. We're a good half inch off. Am I missing something here?

Second, If anyone has pictures of their pump mounted the hose routing, it would be much appreciated.
 

joeyboy777

Regular
Mar 2, 2008
163
12
1. water pump wiring kit.... The orange wire goes to the pump's red wire, and the yellow wire goes to a +12v ignition tap. The one that I have always used is the "accessory tap" drop-down that is located under the glovebox. Deep under the dash right under the dash, is a 3-wire tap that GM put down there... one is ground, one is power, and I believe the pink wire is labeled as the 12v ignition.



2. intercooler flow.... starting from the Cool Can (easy starting point) the bottom outlet routes to the TOP inlet of the water pump. Remember that the water pump inlet/outlet should be placed towards the headlight, which the motor pointed towards the wheel.

the bottom outlet of the pump will then route up the driver side fenderwell and all the way along the firewall/STB. You will then route the hose above the alternator and down into a 90-degree fitting

into the IC core. the IC outlet will then get another 90 fitting and should be pointed towards the coilpacks. The hose will go on the inside of the coilpacks (towards the motor) and then go straight down by the radiator close to the battery.

You will then have to make the hose go down and then back straight up in fornt of the radiator and into the heat exchanger. Remember that the inlet to the H.E. should be up high and be on the pass-side.

The outlet on the H.E. should be real low and on the driver-side.

the outlet of the H.E. will now go around the plastic splashguard and straight up into the side of the Cool Can.

Make sure to have the Cool Can filled at least halfway.

MAKE SURE to measure all the hosing BEFORE cutting it. Honestly, I would highly recommend buying a real cheap garden hose or real cheap rubber hosing at the autoparts store that is close to the same diameter, and then use this as your test. You can cut this stuff up and use as test-fitting. Then use it as a "ruler" for the lengths you need for the real hose.


Ill get some pics if you need them. Also, for the hood, itll be the area directly above the boost bypass valve. I couldnt close my hood at first, so i made a hole where stey said to in the thrasher intercooler install, it worked, i ran my car, then tried to poen the hood... it got stuck on the bypass. i had my brother hit the gas as i opened the hood. its a pretty bug hole, that now has toi get cleaned up

I was going to come by yesterday to meet up with Joel for some ICCU tuning, bt never got a call back. Id be down for going out there. I learned a lot when Blitzu helped/did my install. Now Ican confidently take off the top of my motor.

Give me a call or email me

Joe A
815-751-7175
 

joeyboy777

Regular
Mar 2, 2008
163
12
[attachmentid=1233]Heres some pics. Fist is of the pump in the wheel well. I have aflowjet, i used some long bits to still a starting hole, then used some attachment on the drill to reach far enough in to use the self drilling screws. I took my time because the self drilling screws were not at all freindly with me that day.

[attachmentid=1234] the second is the bay. again, use some generac tubing before cutting up the stainless tubing if that is what you have. I used some stuff i bought at ace for $10. It ended up that the earls fittings really stick. I havent taken off my test tubing yet.

[attachmentid=1235]The last pic is the hole, i dont think it came out too clear, but it is right at the drivers head as far as placemnt on the hood once it is up. yup, im horrible at explaining placement. put some marking on the boost bypass and see where it hits. then have at it. Mine got cracked when i tried to open the hood. the bolt that is in the front of the boost got hooked on it. But i also have the cf hood, so there may be different clearing issues.

Joe A
 

Mike K

TCG Elite Member
Apr 11, 2008
13,214
2,586
Originally posted by joeyboy777@Nov 21 2004, 07:09 AM
1.  water pump wiring kit.... The orange wire goes to the pump's red wire, and the yellow wire goes to a +12v ignition tap.  The one that I have always used is the "accessory tap" drop-down that is located under the glovebox.  Deep under the dash right under the dash, is a 3-wire tap that GM put down there... one is ground, one is power, and I believe the pink wire is labeled as the 12v ignition.



2.  intercooler flow.... starting from the Cool Can (easy starting point) the bottom outlet routes to the TOP inlet of the water pump.  Remember that the water pump inlet/outlet should be placed towards the headlight, which the motor pointed towards the wheel. 

the bottom outlet of the pump will then route up the driver side fenderwell and all the way along the firewall/STB.  You will then route the hose above the alternator and down into a 90-degree fitting

into the IC core.  the IC outlet will then get another 90 fitting and should be pointed towards the coilpacks.  The hose will go on the inside of the coilpacks (towards the motor) and then go straight down by the radiator close to the battery.

You will then have to make the hose go down and then back straight up in fornt of the radiator and into the heat exchanger.  Remember that the inlet to the H.E. should be up high and be on the pass-side.

The outlet on the H.E. should be real low and on the driver-side.

the outlet of the H.E. will now go around the plastic splashguard and straight up into the side of the Cool Can.

Make sure to have the Cool Can filled at least halfway.

MAKE SURE to measure all the hosing BEFORE cutting it.  Honestly, I would highly recommend buying a real cheap garden hose or real cheap rubber hosing at the autoparts store that is close to the same diameter, and then use this as your test.  You can cut this stuff up and use as test-fitting.  Then use it as a "ruler" for the lengths you need for the real hose.


Ill get some pics if you need them.  Also, for the hood, itll be the area directly above the boost bypass valve.  I couldnt close my hood at first, so i made a hole where stey said to in the thrasher intercooler install, it worked, i ran my car, then tried to poen the hood...  it got stuck on the bypass.  i had my brother hit the gas as i opened the hood.  its a pretty bug hole, that now has toi get cleaned up

I was going to come by yesterday to meet up with Joel for some ICCU tuning, bt never got a call back.  Id be down for going out there. I learned a lot when Blitzu helped/did my install.  Now  Ican confidently take off the top of my motor.

Give me a call or email me

Joe A
815-751-7175
[snapback]60998[/snapback]​

Well Joe, it appears we "guessed" on the line routing correctly, so that's good. And I already have the pump wired and working so that's good also. What's not good is the hood situation. We have the bumper off (shaddup J.E.T. :lol: ) and we can look in there and see precisely where it is hitting. It's definetly on the fuel rail as it makes a dimple when we latch the hood.. This sort of negates the included "extended" rails.

Arrgghhh.
 

Royalgtp

TCG Elite Member
Dec 24, 2008
3,700
0
Originally posted by beyerch@Nov 21 2004, 10:19 PM
That kit was on a car with a stock hood.

It used that rail system.

I'll give him a call and see whats up with that.  How short are you to it clearing ?
[snapback]61056[/snapback]​


WE cut a ton out of my hood and the fuel rail bump....its still hits and has left a little dimple on the top of my hood...

I just ordered teh fuel rails so I should be good..
 

Mike K

TCG Elite Member
Apr 11, 2008
13,214
2,586
Originally posted by beyerch@Nov 21 2004, 10:19 PM
That kit was on a car with a stock hood.

It used that rail system.

I'll give him a call and see whats up with that.  How short are you to it clearing ?
[snapback]61056[/snapback]​

I don't know Charles... Those rails look freshly painted and never installed, that is until we got a hold of them. With the stock stud coming up out of them and the brace, I can't see them clearing any car with a stock hood. Perhaps they didn't use the blower stud. The kit looks great except for tiny design mistakes that really through off an install and really aren't necessitated. The core itself looks mighty nice; it's just the package around it and some of the fitting choices that left a little to be desired. Then again, we're running a kit that was already in someone's car with hoses that were pre-cut and I'm sure that didn't add to the excitement.
 

Royalgtp

TCG Elite Member
Dec 24, 2008
3,700
0
Joey777,

How the heck does the bottom of your cool can work????

I must be missing a piece or something cause it a piece of shit fitting on the botom of the can!!!! :angry: :angry: :angry:

Mike and I coulnd not secure it well enought to make the system go....Heck we didnt even pour enythign into it....

Its that stupid little white filter screw piece and the plastic pipe underneath...I dont get it, they spent all this money on the kit and braided hoses and fitting and then Fuck it all up on when fitting?????????

Please help! :angry:
 

joeyboy777

Regular
Mar 2, 2008
163
12
Originally posted by RoyalGTP@Nov 21 2004, 11:10 PM
Its that stupid little white filter screw piece and the plastic pipe underneath...I dont get it, they spent all this money on the kit and braided hoses and fitting and then Fuck it all up on when fitting?????????

Please help! :angry:
[snapback]61063[/snapback]​

the cool can should be the same as mine... maybe.. mine has a cheap fitting just like the fitting on the pump outlets. It is ground down so it can accept the tubing. I took some hot water to make the tubing pliable enough to slip ofer the fitting, then clamped it with a screw clamp. .. its not the nicest of cool cans out there, but does its job. you can always get a new cool can and set it in the trunk. There isnt enough room in the bay for my cool can other than next to my wizair intake, it is a tight squeeze.

glad to hear ou got the hood closed. my situation was a little different. enjoy the IC. and get an oil change soon. I messed up my car on the install, live and learn. I think everyone here has come into one problem or another on an install. sometimes you want to stop modding, put it all back to stock.... f that, i got a mod bug.

peace,

joe a
 

beyerch

Addict
Jan 20, 2009
704
0
Mike,

I worked on the car many times with that IC installed. Did you guys cut or adjust the hood latch in the front? Maybe that helped throw it off? I agree since it was in someone else's car it might have made the hoses a little different, but I wouldn't expect it to be too far off.

The plug for the bottom of the cool can is still in the cool can. I played with that and that is a pita. One of the things I noticed when i first got it that didn't look like fun.
 

Royalgtp

TCG Elite Member
Dec 24, 2008
3,700
0
Originally posted by joeyboy777+Nov 22 2004, 06:34 AM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-RoyalGTP
@Nov 21 2004, 11:10 PM
Its that stupid little white filter screw piece and the plastic pipe underneath...I dont get it, they spent all this money on the kit and braided hoses and fitting and then Fuck it all up on when fitting?????????

Please help! :angry:
[snapback]61063[/snapback]​

the cool can should be the same as mine... maybe.. mine has a cheap fitting just like the fitting on the pump outlets. It is ground down so it can accept the tubing. I took some hot water to make the tubing pliable enough to slip ofer the fitting, then clamped it with a screw clamp. .. its not the nicest of cool cans out there, but does its job. you can always get a new cool can and set it in the trunk. There isnt enough room in the bay for my cool can other than next to my wizair intake, it is a tight squeeze.

glad to hear ou got the hood closed. my situation was a little different. enjoy the IC. and get an oil change soon. I messed up my car on the install, live and learn. I think everyone here has come into one problem or another on an install. sometimes you want to stop modding, put it all back to stock.... f that, i got a mod bug.

peace,

joe a
[snapback]61079[/snapback]​
[/b]

Can I get some pictures of the bottom of the cool can? IM talking about how it connects to the cool can....not the hose...

My kit came with all AN fittings and braided houses.....the only cheap ass fitting is the one on the cool can.....the othe side post is a real nice AN fitting....

Where do you live? Did you have the stupid little white filter inside the can to connect too?
 

Mike K

TCG Elite Member
Apr 11, 2008
13,214
2,586
Originally posted by beyerch@Nov 22 2004, 08:00 AM
Mike,

I worked on the car many times with that IC installed.  Did you guys cut or adjust the hood latch in the front?  Maybe that helped throw it off?  I agree since it was in someone else's car it might have made the hoses a little different, but I wouldn't expect it to be too far off.

The plug for the bottom of the cool can is still in the cool can.  I played with that and that is a pita.  One of the things I noticed when i first got it that didn't look like fun.
[snapback]61081[/snapback]​

We did cut it, but it was in it's proper location. As well, the gap on the hood's edges was what drew us to the problem in the first place. If you say they were on then they were on, but I just can't see anyone using these and them working, not when I know everything was installed correctly. His motor doesn't appear to be at an odd angle either; so it's quite the mystery.
 
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