3800 N20 Questions....
- Thread starter NewBlueGT
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imported_snoop
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the reason that they make "wet" kits is because fuel amplfies nitrous. it is almost a must have thing when it comes to nitrous. nitrous is not a flamable. you will get bigger gains with adding fuel with the nitrous as you would just nitrous. get a fuel solenoid and throw some fuel in there, you will be very happy with it.
Well right now I have the dry nozzel with a 47 jet in it. I've sprayed it once, I noticed a little gain, but nothing huge. I've asked around before, and the people told me that my car wasn't getting enough fuel to really get the true gains of N20. So, think an ajustable fuel pressure regulater would do anything for me? I know the PCM sets the flow back to stock...but when I hit it, and I Have the regulater cranked up..wouldn't that allow more fuel to be put in when I hit it?
Nitrous is nothing to mess with. If you do it wrong you can say good bye to your engine. The reason you need more fuel is because you are adding extra oxygen and nitrogen to your engine. The nitrogen cools the intake charge down and the extra oxygen is what gives you the extra HP. Extra oxygen and not enough fuel = lean. Lean = holes in the pistons. If you want to go cheap on this than you need something that will make your fuel pressure regulator up the fuel pressure when you are shooting the nitrous. That is how ZEX work. They have a solenoid that increases the vacum so the fuel pressure regulator adds more fuel. If you really want to use nitrous do it right. Also always check your O2 so you don't run lean.
John
John
No, it would not. The PCM will compensate the injector flow rate for the increased pressure.
It's not advisable to just spray without added fuel. Monitor KR and O2's while you spray. If the O2s are still above .92 - then it's somewhat save. I would personally not run that setup though.
J.E.T.
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imported_snoop
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how do you figure? nitrous is the same thing as a blower if not even better. true if you dont do it right, then what you said, but it is the same thing for a blown motor. if you try to build a blown motor without doing anything to the fuel the same results will come of it. i just dont understand why everyone is so afraid/against nitrous. my old GT has a 100 shot on it. nitrous makes the motor very happy just as much as it would make you happy if you inhaled it. dude, go for it. start with a 50 wet shot, and take it from there. the adjustable regulator wont do anything for you. you need another solenoid for the fuel along with the lines and a jet, that will adjust the fuel. changing jets is adjusting the fuel, not the regulator. the line will tap/screw into the schrader valve on the fuel line, then to the reg. and then to a y-fitting that screws into the intake tubing or wherever you put it. the y-fitting will have both nitrous and fuel lines in it. believe me, when you run out of nitrous, you will feel it too, the whole car will be pulling like crazy and all of a sudden it will feel like you hit a wall from being bogged down, its pretty cool and it pisses you off at the same time.
. have fun with ithow do you figure? [/b][/quote]
What I ment with that quote is that nitrous is something you don't want to half ass. If you use nitrous do it right. Saving couple of hundred bucks at the beginning will make you spend couple thousand at the end. Don't fear nitrous respect it. Do it right the first time.
if you are doing it without a fuel solenoid spray it before the MAF.
the maf is fast enough to pick up the change in temp and adjust fuel acordingly.
ive sprayed dry shots through the maf on a bunch of cars (up to a 125 shot) without any problems, the car i sprayed 125 did have a flip switch tune to richen it up for the nitrous. i sprayed 75 dry on my stang with NO fuel mods and on the wideband a/f was perfect, started out slightly rich then leaned out to where i wanted them- i picked up 14mph in the 1/4 on this 75dry shot.
what you will want for sure is a fuel pressure safety switch and a WOT switch.
the maf is fast enough to pick up the change in temp and adjust fuel acordingly.
ive sprayed dry shots through the maf on a bunch of cars (up to a 125 shot) without any problems, the car i sprayed 125 did have a flip switch tune to richen it up for the nitrous. i sprayed 75 dry on my stang with NO fuel mods and on the wideband a/f was perfect, started out slightly rich then leaned out to where i wanted them- i picked up 14mph in the 1/4 on this 75dry shot.
what you will want for sure is a fuel pressure safety switch and a WOT switch.
^^^ what he said
Nothing wrong w/a dry shot... I ran a 125 dry on my car 2 years ago... and i'm hoping to spray an open jet dry shot before the seasons open this year... (granted this was in an LS1)
MAF will compensate for the extra fuel needed (to a point, the larger the dcry shot the closer you can get to maxing the injectors... so good idea to watch the injector pulse width w/a scanner tool and see how close you are to maxing while spraying), WOT switch will let nitrous engage only at wide open throttle, FPS switch will only spray if fuel pressure is there.. if it drops it'll cut nitrous (as mentioned, nitrous is a combustable gas, but is not flammable... running lean on nitrous is when you go boom , so if you run low on fuel pressure , you're going to get a REALLY hot burn since you don't have neough fuel... then it'll either go boom or something's going to melt)
Also may wanna lookinto a window switch (RPM Switch) ... generally not a good idea to spray below 3000 RPM, and always a good idea to kill nitrous between shifts (unless it's a built trans or the car is only for the strip or mostly strip use) ... so set a window switch to activate at 3000 RPM, and turn off at 5800 RPM for a 6000RPM shift
Nothing wrong w/a dry shot... I ran a 125 dry on my car 2 years ago... and i'm hoping to spray an open jet dry shot before the seasons open this year... (granted this was in an LS1)
MAF will compensate for the extra fuel needed (to a point, the larger the dcry shot the closer you can get to maxing the injectors... so good idea to watch the injector pulse width w/a scanner tool and see how close you are to maxing while spraying), WOT switch will let nitrous engage only at wide open throttle, FPS switch will only spray if fuel pressure is there.. if it drops it'll cut nitrous (as mentioned, nitrous is a combustable gas, but is not flammable... running lean on nitrous is when you go boom , so if you run low on fuel pressure , you're going to get a REALLY hot burn since you don't have neough fuel... then it'll either go boom or something's going to melt)
Also may wanna lookinto a window switch (RPM Switch) ... generally not a good idea to spray below 3000 RPM, and always a good idea to kill nitrous between shifts (unless it's a built trans or the car is only for the strip or mostly strip use) ... so set a window switch to activate at 3000 RPM, and turn off at 5800 RPM for a 6000RPM shift
direct port is really only benificial in really high horsepower applications.
you can get plenty of juice in through the intake to blow your motor several times over.
and the gains are pretty self explainitory, the jets for a 100 shot will give you ~ 100 hp, 125 = ? you guessed it, 125hp . the lower rpm you spray it the more torque it will make, but you dont want to spray below about 3000 rpms.
a dry kit will work fine for your application, spray a 75 shot or so and you should be good to go.
if you want consistancy get a window switch, otherwise you can run a pushbutton in line with the WOT switch and control it yourself- NEVER run a button without a WOT switch in line with it because if something goes wrong your first reaction is the take your foot off the gas.
you can get plenty of juice in through the intake to blow your motor several times over.
and the gains are pretty self explainitory, the jets for a 100 shot will give you ~ 100 hp, 125 = ? you guessed it, 125hp . the lower rpm you spray it the more torque it will make, but you dont want to spray below about 3000 rpms.
a dry kit will work fine for your application, spray a 75 shot or so and you should be good to go.
if you want consistancy get a window switch, otherwise you can run a pushbutton in line with the WOT switch and control it yourself- NEVER run a button without a WOT switch in line with it because if something goes wrong your first reaction is the take your foot off the gas.
Like was said above: if you are shooting a dry shot, shoot before the maf. This will tell the computer that there is more air in the mix and it will richen up all on its own. If you are shooting a wet shot, shoot after the maf, otherwise you will confuse the hell out of your computer and end up pig rich.
Direct port is running a fuel and nitrous line into the runner before the head. It really is only better for higher HP applications. Reason: it is much too complicated and expensive for lower hp. for instance: If you want a 75 shot you can get it for MUCH less using a dry or wet kit. Problem comes when you want 200+ hp. This is partially because of how our cars are setup. EFI cars (electronic fuel injection) use the injectors to get fuel to the cylinders, where carb'd cars carry fuel through the intake manifold. Because injectors put the fuel right at the head, the intake manifold isnt desgined to carry liquid fuel. So you can get pooling if you are adding too much fuel for the air to carry, and eventually you will blow up your intake and probably some other stuff with it. Direct port fixes this problem by dumping the fuel just before the injector largely preventing pooling and blow back. Also, dp (direct port, hopefully obvious that i dont mean down pipe) has another benefit for high hp shot applications. it feeds each cylinder independantly guarantying (sp?) that each cylinder gets an equal N2O and fuel allotment. With a dry or wet shot you cant guarantee that every cylinder gets the same amount of nitrous,a nd in the case of a wet shot you may not get enough fuel into a cylinder for the amount of N2O in there, resulting in a lean condition.
Hope this helps.
BC
Direct port is running a fuel and nitrous line into the runner before the head. It really is only better for higher HP applications. Reason: it is much too complicated and expensive for lower hp. for instance: If you want a 75 shot you can get it for MUCH less using a dry or wet kit. Problem comes when you want 200+ hp. This is partially because of how our cars are setup. EFI cars (electronic fuel injection) use the injectors to get fuel to the cylinders, where carb'd cars carry fuel through the intake manifold. Because injectors put the fuel right at the head, the intake manifold isnt desgined to carry liquid fuel. So you can get pooling if you are adding too much fuel for the air to carry, and eventually you will blow up your intake and probably some other stuff with it. Direct port fixes this problem by dumping the fuel just before the injector largely preventing pooling and blow back. Also, dp (direct port, hopefully obvious that i dont mean down pipe) has another benefit for high hp shot applications. it feeds each cylinder independantly guarantying (sp?) that each cylinder gets an equal N2O and fuel allotment. With a dry or wet shot you cant guarantee that every cylinder gets the same amount of nitrous,a nd in the case of a wet shot you may not get enough fuel into a cylinder for the amount of N2O in there, resulting in a lean condition.
Hope this helps.
BC
27 lb/h i think. yes, a new tune and larger injectors will get you more fuel. Expect $700+ for that. A new tune is necessary to run new injectors, especially if you are going to mess with N2O. Dude, not to be a dick, but dont try to make your own kit. You obviously dont have the knowledge needed. you need to do some heavy research before doing this. At LEAST find out how N2O works, why it works, and why it fails before doing anything. If you JUST want nitrous then buy a kit and be done with it. If you plan on nitrous and FI, or just a LOT of nitrous, then you need a lot more knowledge to do this right and not result in a grenaded motor/tranny.
BC
Hey Sweetness,
I always herd that if you shoot the nitrous before the MAF that you will freeze it and the MAF numbers will not be correct. I could see that happening, because just messing around with setting it up I had one of the lines unhooked to see if it was shooting and froze the end connector real good and it stayed frozen for a good while. So I sould see nitrous freezing the MAF. Have you seen any problems with that?
John
I always herd that if you shoot the nitrous before the MAF that you will freeze it and the MAF numbers will not be correct. I could see that happening, because just messing around with setting it up I had one of the lines unhooked to see if it was shooting and froze the end connector real good and it stayed frozen for a good while. So I sould see nitrous freezing the MAF. Have you seen any problems with that?
John
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