3800 Trying to improve IC performance

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imported_Ron Vogel

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  • #1
    I'm seeing SC housing temps of 120ish, and core frame temps of 160. I expect the IC frame to be that, since it is my engine's running temp. Has anyone here IR checked the SC housing, and rad to see where they are at? I'm seeing 90ish temps on the rad, in this 68 degree weather, which sounds pretty good, but I may need to add a multi-speed feature to my pump, and add more cooling to the SC housing. I'm going to drill and tap into the frame at the boost bypass to power a vortex cooler, and route the cool output through the SC housing coolant passages. I'm hoping to get the housing temps down at least 50 degrees.
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    L

    LP 3800

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    Nov 24, 2008
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  • #2
    I don't think the temp of the blower housing has that much to do with it that would make the project worth it. I could be 100% wrong, so think I am bashing you in any way. But the air is in and out of there so fast, I can't imagine it helping to much. BUT I would love to see it tried. I am sure it would help a little. It takes people like you to let us know how it will actually work :)
    The IC frame is a reflection of the heat absorbed from your boost. So if you got rid of that, I guess it could not hurt.
     
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    imported_Ron Vogel

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  • #3
    No offence taken...I'm just working off the principle of icing down the blower. At the track, I've seen a tenth out of bringing the SC temp down from 150 to 100 degrees. The idea I'm thinking of doing involves switching the unit on from the car so the housing can cool down w/o ice. What would need to happen is the bypass needs to close so the boost bleeds off through the vortex. So I would need to wire in some relays and and air switch. It couldn't be used during wot, it would hurt performance.
     
    L

    LP 3800

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    Nov 24, 2008
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  • #5
    I think you would see better results if you put water channels in the IC itself. That would indirectly keep yur blower cold and it would drain the heat out of the abused IC when racing. I have thought about trying it myself, but never got around to it. Maybe stage 8 or 9 I will do it :)
     
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    VIN7

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    Apr 22, 2008
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  • #6
    I'm going to have to play with coolant flow now to maximize perfomance
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    I'm going to have to calculate flow between the Jabsco and Johnson, but I seems to be picking up a slight bit of kr with the Johnson pump. However, I also have noticed that the pcm has compensated for some added fuel (mini-afc) by dropping my wot ltft's. So the kr may be related to that rather than the pump flow differences.


    Mike
     
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    imported_Ron Vogel

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  • #7
    Well, I was reading an article on water/air intercooling, and they had some good info on pump speeds. Running a low pump speed during normal operation allowed the water to cool better in the rad, then use a hobbs switch to run the pump full at wot, that way you get a cooler shot during brief WOT operation. It takes much longer to rid the water of heat than air. I would like to see some way of inexpensively monitoring water temps in and out of the core, I'll have to do some looking...
     
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    VIN7

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    Apr 22, 2008
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  • #9
    I'm just working off the principle of icing down the blower
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    I can't remember where I saw it but how about this...you take some type of water jacketed blanket (similar to a racing cool suit) that is strapped to the blower and feed in cold water from a reservior?

    I would like to see some way of inexpensively monitoring water temps in and out of the core, I'll have to do some looking...
    Click to expand...

    I saw some mulitmeters at sears with dual thermocouple inputs. You could probably thread each thermocouple wire between the hose barb and hose on the inlet/outlet of the ic.

    Mike
     
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    imported_Ron Vogel

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  • #11
    Well, Sears sells the temp probes for $11.99, would need 2; plust the most inexpensive multitester that works with them is $19.99, so total it would be $50ish with tax. I looked at some guages, but none of them read below 100 degrees, and the ones that do are over $200. I did find this for $14.99!
     
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    rob

    TCG Elite Member
    Dec 28, 2008
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  • #14
    Are you running a fan on the front of the IC heat exchanger/rad. I found one at pep-boys...Low profile that flows around 800cfm I think..It works really well. It was $70 though. You coud probably find one at the scrap yard....

    Did you consider running a trunk ice exchanger/barbie pool type of artaficial cooling?

    I found a nice heater core w/3/4 connections and im mounting it in a medium size cooler. Im going to plum my IC lines to the back of the car with 1/2 PVC along the fram rails to save weight and prevent a puncture.(3/4 heater hose is .99 ft too)
    Then im just plumbing it after the water goes through the rad it going to the ice exchanger then back to the core...

    Can you visualize it?

    If I can get Fredo over here, we'll try and post some Pics. Its comming out well.
     
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    rob

    TCG Elite Member
    Dec 28, 2008
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  • #18
    Pep boys....Right next to the fans and tranny/oil coolers. Its the 15amp one..I believe its made by rapid cool...I found it at the one in Chicago Ridge. You may have to have them order it for you cause I didnt see ti at the ine in Bedford pk.

    Its nice...Its got a temp probe that I want to install in the coolent/rad somehow and is adjustable from 32-248*

    I'll go and post the PN for you later. Or Ron go on JC Whitney.com I saw them there aswell. Different brand though.

    Could you give me some info on the temp. guages you posted. I actuall have a SW temp guage...I just need the temp sender. I should just go to Sears.
     
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    imported_Ron Vogel

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  • #19
    The dual temp guages are from www.xoxide.com but it is discontunued, they use a temp probe that is a thin wire that must be attached to the outside of the fitting (so if you have brass or alumimum fittings you're golden) The temp probes that Sears sells is the same thing, but it's $11.99 each, and I don't think it would be compatible with any guages. My IR thermometer is telling mr my rad doesn't get any hotter than 90 degrees, any of the off the shelf coolant temp guages don't go any lower than 100. That's one of the reasons I've been looking at the temp monitors designed to be used for computers. Most people going to water cooling their CPU's are going for super cold temps, and many of the monitors go as low as -40C.+
     
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