3800 tested home made IC pump

[imported_Ron Vogel]

I had a centrifigual water pump, that is driven with a magnetic coupler lying around. I wanted to use it for the IC, since it is a completely sealed unit, so it should be trouble free. The problem is that is was made to be used as a chemical pump on industrial machinery, and has an AC motor to motivate it. At first I got an inverter for it, and that worked, but I didn't like the inverter under the hood, and it didn't seem it would be too reliable. So I picked up a DC motor from a surplus store. The pump portion is mounted to a cradle, that mounts to the motor. The new motor had no mounting provisions, so I lopped off the front of the old motor and welded it to the new one. Last night, I put it all back together, and decided I better test it. Holy crap it worked way better than expected! It's easily flowing 8-10 GPM. I was using a 1 litre bottle as a res to pull from and it sucked it dry in seconds, and surprisingly it's also pretty quiet. I just love rigging stuff. I'll have to keep an eye on the motor to ensure it's durability, but It is actually a AC delco fan motor, with weatherpack connections on it. I'm pretty confident it can withstand continuos duty. Just wanted to share, I know pumps can be pretty pricey, including the paint I used on it, the pump has only cost me $15.00

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[sr71_rgl]

Originally posted by Ron Vogel@Jun 17 2004, 08:42 AM
Holy crap it worked way better than expected! It's easily flowing 8-10 GPM. I was using a 1 litre bottle as a res to pull from and it sucked it dry in seconds....

Way to go, but I'm under the impression a lower GPM would be better so the water spends more time cooling in the rad. What's your take on this?

 

[antpearl]

how the hell did you get so smart....trial and error or natural gift

 

[sweetness]

actually, the more water you can move through there, the better. You aren't working with a "finite" (lack of better word) amount of water. Because of that you dont need to get the water to soak up as much heat as possible. the intercooler will function better if you are feeding it as much cold water as possible. teh temp difference between the air and water determines how well the charge air is cooled. If you keep the water moving fast you will see the water temps only climb a little, but becasue so much water is moving through there more energy will be pulled from the charge air. i fyou slow it down more energy is added to the water, but by the time it gets to the other side of the intercooler it isnt taking as much heat out of the charge air as the cooler water at the start of the intercooler. See what i am saying? If you ONLY had 1 gallon of water, and couldnt recycle it THEN moving it slowly would be beneficial. But because the water keeps recirculating you want it through the intercooler as fast as possible. But you do want it to go slowly through the heat exchanger so it is cooled down as much as possible. Hope this wasnt too incoherently written that its hard to follow. Im not going to go through it and make it easier.

BC
h34r:

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

I see what you'all are saying. I figured to run it as is, then start playing with GPM if I have to. I might throw on a pressure return line, but If you saw the size radiator I'm using, I might not have to.

 

[sweetness]

i think you are in a better situation than anyone else out there who paid $125 for 5 gpm, and you paid $15 for 8-10 gpm. Leave it at 8-10 assuming its not causing too much back pressure on the pump. My guess is that you have thought about that though. What ever happened to the Magnum?

BC

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

We're waiting until next month for the wife's new car...

 

[2KREDGHOST]

Hey Ron when you start to sell them you got a customer right here!!!


P.S

What about the doggy friz-bee???

 

[rob]

Dont take this the wrong way Ron but you come up with some wild combo's....Im glad it works for you though....

I dont like the idea of running an inverter under the hood with 120v...How much current is the pump/inverter running? You know what I mean? Im not trying to criticise you idea. I think that a sure-flow would be easier is all. Inverters (cheap ones) have a tendoncy of beeing a little rough on battery cells...However, your pump probably not pulling many amps.

Speaking of IC's Ron......

I made a change in my ice exchanger...I found a nice ford heater core for $25. Its perfect. Its got 3/4 inlet lines like my IC system...Its about 7 1/2 x 10" and 2 3/4" thick. I can use a smaller cooler now to save a little weight. And not have to reduce down to 3/8 like I would with a tranny cooler. I also got a t-stat relay for the IC fan....

I'll post some pics later.....

 

[ThePizzaGXP]

Originally posted by rob@Jun 19 2004, 11:21 AM
Dont take this the wrong way Ron but you come up with some wild combo's....Im glad it works for you though....

I dont like the idea of running an inverter under the hood with 120v...How much current is the pump/inverter running? You know what I mean? Im not trying to criticise you idea. I think that a sure-flow would be easier is all. Inverters (cheap ones) have a tendoncy of beeing a little rough on battery cells...However, your pump probably not pulling many amps.

Speaking of IC's Ron......

I made a change in my ice exchanger...I found a nice ford heater core for $25. Its perfect. Its got 3/4 inlet lines like my IC system...Its about 7 1/2 x 10" and 2 3/4" thick. I can use a smaller cooler now to save a little weight. And not have to reduce down to 3/8 like I would with a tranny cooler. I also got a t-stat relay for the IC fan....

I'll post some pics later.....

He replaced the AC motor with a DC volt fan AC Delco fan motor... fyi B)

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Well, I track and road tested it, and the pump is proving reliable, but my rads not. It has an annoying leak at the top where the tank is crimped to the core. I recrimped it and went rtv crazy. I'm so ghetto...

 

[rob]

Going to the junk yard is like buying a box of chocolats....You never know. I wandered around the heater core isle at peppy boys to find the core for my ice exchanger. I ran across some decent size rads aswell. Cant hurt to take a look next time you in a parts store. Just ask first....

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Got the rad fixed today...I had a lot of air in the core still too. Found a good way to bleed it; put a tee in the pump side line, put a long tube on it, then attached a pop bottle to the end. With the bottle up high, got all the air out of the system. At the track, my rad never even got warm, now you can feel a little heat coming off it. Even with the ic rad leaking, and air in the system, I ran 4 tenths faster.

 

[rob]

Thats great. 4 tenths...Almost a half of second...Did you log any runs. How much timing did you see?

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Originally posted by rob@Jun 21 2004, 12:07 PM
Thats great. 4 tenths...Almost a half of second...Did you log any runs. How much timing did you see?

I didn't bring the a-tap with me, once I get some stuff sorted out it'll get tuned properly. Set-up like she is, there's a few tenths left in her. I really feel 13.2's should be no problem before I swap in a 2.8" pulley. It should be seeing full timing (around 16.5) I'm not getting any KR whatsoever now. I was seeing that timing with the 3.25 on in 40ish temps.

 

[rob]

16.5 is full PCM timming?

Sounds good Ron...Your going to be in the 12's.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Originally posted by rob@Jun 21 2004, 01:26 PM
16.5 is full PCM timming?

Sounds good Ron...Your going to be in the 12's.

15 is full timing, if you spoof the iat to below 57 degrees you get an extra 1.5. I should drop it in the 12's this season, but it ain't going to be that easy. I could do it with traction over anything else, but I'm already doing 1.9 sec 60' times with no lsd or slicks. I need to p/u traction in first gear to lose some ET. I ether need to dial down some power on the bottom, or just add alot more at the top. Without my LCR brace, I get tons of torque steer now!