3800 More IC questions...

[imported_Ron Vogel]

OK, if anyone has an idea about this. I had a lot of trouble this weekend with my pump and rad sitiuation. My pump is a magnetic drive impeller pump. the drawback to it is that it's AC. I picked up an inverter, and it runs the pump fine, but I don't like it set-up that way because I will have to drive the car everyday, even in the rain. So I returned the inverter, and bought a new motor for my pump that's DC. (I love american science and surplus), new motor with GM harness connectors = $14.50! Anyway the bike rad I mounted caused the car to run hot, so I pulled it. I'll be picking up the Jeg's racing rad with some pusher fans for the IC. However, I can't get the rad until next month since funds are low. Grasping at straws, I was thinking of plumbing the IC into the lines normally used for the heater core. Bypassing the heater core, and using the cars cooling system to cool the IC. Yes, I know it will have less performance that way. I usually have coolant temps around 160-180. From what I understand, SC outlet temps are higher than that, so it should help some. In the thought process of doing this, why shouldn't we be able to use the supply line to the heter core, plumbed to an extra rad, then back through the IC, and then back into the motor? It would save some cash, and reliability associated with an electric pump. What are everyone's thoughts on this?

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[VIN7]

Ron,

I don't really see anything wrong with plumbing it like that except that you won't be able to get the coolant to ambient temps. Hmmm...maybe you could get it close, depends on the ic radiator. Plumb flow coming from oem rad into ic rad to ic to heater core. I guess that would be the best senario, because I would think the lines going to the heater core would be at the hottest temps pre-radiator. Then add a CO2 chiller to the ic rad.

I am running the Jabsco Centi-Puppy and it is too loud for my tastes. I'm switching to a centrifigal Johnson pump this weekend. But I would be interested in hearing your results!

Oh yeah, I let everything get heat soaked on the commute to work this morning, when wot back to back and 0* kr both times.

Mike

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Well, there are 2 lines coming out of the WP that lead to the heater core. One must be the supply. If the supply line goes to the IC rad first, then comes through the IC core, then through the heater core, then back to the WP was what I was thinking. As far as your pump noise, try mounting it with well nuts, should quiet it down considerably. They are rubber plugs with a nut in them, the plugs go into the mounting surface, and when tightnend down, expand to hold the plug in place. It will isolate any pump vibrations transferred to the chassis, so the pump should run quiet.

 

[VIN7]

What I was thinking is that the heater core is supplied one of two ways. Either post rad (cool) or post engine (hot). Since it is the heater core I would think it would be the hottest possible coolant temp. I don't know if the deg. difference would be that great. And since this is only a temp set (unless it works out great) I would go with whatever is easiest to plumb.

I'll see what the other pump is like (I already ordered it), but that Jabsco pump was loud on the bench

Mike

 

[VIN7]

Well thinking about some more, what you plan to do is good. If the taps for the heater core are on the waterpump then it must be post rad/pre engine. Do it and let us know the efficiency results.

Good luck,
Mike

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

I thought the outlet for the Rad was the upper hose? I'm no expert on cooling systems, don't really know which way it flows. If the WP draws the water directly from the rad, it would be nice. Outlet temps would heat up the engine quicker, and the T-stat would be open a lot. It might over tax my stock rad in the heat though.

 

[VIN7]

I'm pretty sure it flows out of the bottom of the rad. Otherwise, what would happen if your coolant level dropped below the the upper hose, would it still be able to draw coolant? I dunno.


Also, I think one of the merits of Brians ic is the density of the ic frame. I believe it acts as a heatsink and keeps the s/c housing cool with the ic core removing the heat. Now if that coolant was 180* constantly the heat sink properties would be deminished. Of course this is all speculation on my part

I still think it is a worthwhile experiment, and with summer temps it is truely a worst case senario.

Mike

 

[LP 3800]

I am sure it would work. I am also sure that it would not work as well as a seperate cooling system. Which maybe the convienence would make up0 for the efficiency loss? I don't believe engine coolant is ever under 100 degrees when it is flowing. Also if you were to heat up your coolant pre-engine, then your engine would suffer from the heated coolant. I think that the car flows pretty fast also. You would also not want to use the mixture nor coolant tyoe that is needed for the car. So I am sure you would get it to work, but I don't think you would be happy with it.
BUT, R&D is always useful, even if it did not work. Good luck

 

[rob]

What does a Sure-Flow pump go for?

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Originally posted by LP 3800@Jun 14 2004, 12:00 PM
I am sure it would work. I am also sure that it would not work as well as a seperate cooling system. Which maybe the convienence would make up0 for the efficiency loss? I don't believe engine coolant is ever under 100 degrees when it is flowing. Also if you were to heat up your coolant pre-engine, then your engine would suffer from the heated coolant. I think that the car flows pretty fast also. You would also not want to use the mixture nor coolant tyoe that is needed for the car. So I am sure you would get it to work, but I don't think you would be happy with it.
BUT, R&D is always useful, even if it did not work. Good luck

Well, I've go 50/50 of the green stuff in, so that should work best with the exchanger (dexcool's been gone a long time) Heating up the coolant pre-engine is something I'd worry about though. I don't beat on the car unless I'm racing, but running it through the heater core before the engine may help to buffer it. If I was racing, I suppose running the heat on high, with full blower would help too.