3800 IC radiator

[imported_Ron Vogel]

So I'm trying to get together a set-up for an IC. I have a pump, but need the radiator. I plan on looking at the boneyard for a radiator, and some sort of late model expansion tank. I want to do as small a capacity and radiator size possible (to reduce weight) without being inefficient. I had thought of going with some sort of radiator out of a sub-compact ( Honda, etc.) since I can prolly get the fan and all. Any recomendations?

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[superchargedgp]

buy a new radiator, dont use one of a junk yard

 

[Mike K]

Ron,

I plan on using 1ft x 2ft stacked plate trans cooler with 5/8ths fittings.

 

[rob]

I'll measure up mine...Its close to 12x17" My point is the size is a factor....You want to watch your clearences/ground clearence. I got mine to fit with some punched galvenized angle(garage door angle H.D.$4 for 4ft.) without chopping up my hood latch bracket. I didnt want to chop it and I wanted a little clearence between the exhanger and condenser for my tranny and oil cooler.

I really wouldnt really get too hung up on the weight issue....! Water is 8lbs a gallon. Even if you added that much, say 10-12lbs it would be worth the power to weight ratio/MORE TIMMING!!!! If I could of fit a 4 core in there I would. To slow the flow down through it to remove more heat from the water.

MY OPINION but dont skimp on the exchanger/weight factor. You want to get the most you can. There is alot of ways you can set your IC up....If you lacking in the exchanger dept, a fan is a great way to artificially cool your water temps. Find a low profile one...Check Peppy boys..I saw some nice LP single and double fan units at a decent price.
Also a "Barbie poll" set up. Im installing a med size cooler in the trunk with a exchanger mounted in it. Plumbed in series(after the front exchanger) in my trunk. Im going to use regular and try dry ice on hot days and the track..Two things im trying to achieve here is: Cool the water more and slow the water through the front exchanger. What are we talking about here 20-25lbs added weight at the most. If your worried,take a good crap before you go the the track. :lol:
Lots of things you can do in the weight dept....Im sure you have lots of ideas..I also heard you have a shrp holesaw....

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

I was also thinking of something like this...I can even scavenge a rad off my bike.

 

[alexgtp]

The one that I am using and Mike and J/O are using is very very light and mounts perfectly in front of the radiator. Cant weight more than 10lbs and is large enought to actually work.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Originally posted by alexgtp@Jun 7 2004, 01:18 PM
The one that I am using and Mike and J/O are using is very very light and mounts perfectly in front of the radiator. Cant weight more than 10lbs and is large enought to actually work.

Scirocco rad?

 

[alexgtp]

No it is a light weight racing radiator from Jegs. Let me get the part number.

 

[alexgtp]

YEs Ron you are correct. It is the Scirocco. I was thinking about the VW Scirocco car radiator..LOL!!

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Originally posted by alexgtp@Jun 7 2004, 01:58 PM
YEs Ron you are correct. It is the Scirocco. I was thinking about the VW Scirocco car radiator..LOL!!

It is the car radiator, but it's real popular for drag racing. I think the versions Jeg's, and Summit sell use the same core, but different tanks. I'll look at my bike rad first, I think it's a three row. That one is real nice for the price. Shopping around I found a place that will make any configuration you want from a variety of cores. I have to get in there and start measuring now. My pump is pretty big, and I want good access to everything.

 

[rob]

The one that came with my IC is 12x17" Ron. Its real light...2-4lbs...The fan is a universal one from pep boys 1680. The flucking thing was $70 though but I was desperete. It is onlt 1 3/4" thick and has a 12-13" circumference and 800cfm. You may not have to run the fan relays if you install one.

Are you going to use the Honda one? Seems a little small.

 

[rob]

Originally posted by Mike K@Jun 7 2004, 11:57 AM
Ron,

I plan on using 1ft x 2ft stacked plate trans cooler with 5/8ths fittings.

I dont claim to be and expert on IC's. Nor do I want to seem like im trying to insult your knowlege. I dont think the trans cooler will remove enough heat from thr water to be effective. Even with a fan and artaficial cooler.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

I'm still going to use the one off my motorcycle, at least for now. I'd like to get a racing radiator for my bike anyway, so this gets me off my ass to buy one. The bike rad is curved, but it measures about 15 x 18, and is 2" thick, single row aluminum. It has 1"id in/out, and a cap. There are 4 flanges that have nuts for mounting, so fabbing it up to work should be a cinch. If it's not good enough, I'll yank it off and get the Jegs or Summit one. I'm wiring in the bike's stock fan to a switch in the cabin to overide the ign off in conjunction with the coolant pump.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Originally posted by rob+Jun 10 2004, 02:45 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (rob @ Jun 10 2004, 02:45 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-Mike K@Jun 7 2004, 11:57 AM
Ron,

I plan on using 1ft x 2ft stacked plate trans cooler with 5/8ths fittings.

I dont claim to be and expert on IC's. Nor do I want to seem like im trying to insult your knowlege. I dont think the trans cooler will remove enough heat from thr water to be effective. Even with a fan and artaficial cooler. [/b][/quote]
I agree, I've been reading up on this, and it seems a large flattened tube for the fins is the way to go. I was thinking about the plate cooler, but it looks like Zoomer tried it on the SS IC, and it didn't work too well. I'd like to incorporate a resivour on the IC inlet that I can fill with ice too, I need to take a trip to the boneyard for that. I did some work on a late model intrepid that has one that may work very well. I just have to go measure it.

 

[rob]

I take it back: 15x15x2 is pretty good.....I didnt know the size....That may be enough pending how much heat from the air you core is removing.

A resevore with ice is the hot lash. If you go to the junk yard just find a tranny/oil/condensor unit that dont leak!!!!!!! Or just get one from pep boys too. I saw 2 sizes and I doubt there expensive. All you will need to do is get a meduim size cooler/refreshment cooler...
Im thinking of making box to size out of alumimum to size my configurations. The refresment cooler wont alow me to mount the trunk exchanger flat on the bottom of the box like I want to to get the full benefit of the dryice/ice. but the ref.cooler will keep the ice longer. Well see. I want to keep the cooler size to a minimum.

Then mount the tranny cooler(or what ever you find)seal it up then run the hose in series after the exchanger/before the core. This way the long run of hose and restriction will slow down the water through the exchanger. Also the ambient air and fan will cool the water before your ice exchanger allowing more use out of the ice.

Be aware that a tranny cooler/condensor/ect has smaller holes. My IC uses 3/4" lines..I dont want too much or a resriction that my overheat the pump. I dont know yet. I may hav to fab inlets in or find a exchanger closer to 3/4". But you know that the flow will be slowed through a oil/tranny cooler cause the tube sizes through it arent as large as the radiater type...

Food for thought.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

I'm going to be running 5/8" lines. Mostly because of my pump's inlet / outlet is that size. I also was finding a big price difference between the 3/4" and 5/8" lines. I didn't think performance-wise there would be too much difference, especially if I kept the speed of flow in the lines, then slowed it down in the exchanger.

 

[rob]

Yea, I dont think there is that big of a difference between the two hose sizes. If you really wanted 3/4" you could get the 3/4" fittings for the pump. Just contact Sure-Flow or the pump manufacturer....

If there is a big price difference. I may use 5/8 for my ice exchanger in the trunk sense it is going to take a little hose. I think in this case, the speed of the water will be determined by the pump. The size of the hose will determine volume. Running 5/8 should be fine for a trunk ice exchanger.

Shop around on the heater hose Ron. I saw a big price difference on the price of fuel injector hose: Autozone $4.99ft......Murrys $3.65ft Ididnt try Peppy boys.

Either way you go Ron I can assure you some big tempeture drops here with this artificial cooling. Not less than the ambient temps. But a rough estimate on a fan would be could be 20-30* (look what happenes with Justins fan relays) The trunk ice exchanger is really going to cool things off. If you can stand a little extra weight.
I think the additional timming will more than make up for it.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

I got this silicone blend reinforced hose from McMaster for 3.08 a foot. Comes in colors too. It wasn't so much the price of the hose itself, but the fittings that killed me.

 

[digitalsolo]

I used a 27" x 16" aluminum radiator for my heat exchanger. I'm still in the testing stages of the setup, but I know my S/C stays VERY cool, and the radiator barely gets warm. It's still VERY light, and I'd rather pull more temperature at the expense of a little weight.

A bar/plate heat exchanger doesn't spread the flow very well to cool it. Similiar to why the MAP I/C has proven to be less efficient. Less effective surface area for heat dissipation from the water.

I'm looking into doing a small resevoir (if only for the auto-bleeding capabilities) I'm curious to see what you guys come up with.

Oh, I have the LP I/C.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Well, I just mounted the bike rad, it's a nice fit. During the fabbing of brackets, the drill slipped, and went right into the rad. I was hurrying, and should have taken out the rad before I started to drill(I'm such a dumbass). Anyway, I pressure tested it, and it sprung a leak. Fortunetly I was able to fix it pretty easily by crimping the tube there. I pressure tested it again, and it was leak free. Now I'm freaking on how the hoses will fit. I don't see enough room to mount my pump anywhere near the rad. Looks like it's going in the fender somewhere.

 

[rob]

Originally posted by digitalsolo@Jun 11 2004, 06:45 PM

I used a 27" x 16" aluminum radiator for my heat exchanger.

A bar/plate heat exchanger doesn't spread the flow very well to cool it. Similiar to why the MAP I/C has proven to be less efficient. Less effective surface area for heat dissipation from the water.

YEA MAN!!!!!! I AGREE 100%..............Im intitled to my opinion here. This man is correct. Yes I do own a cutom MAP. Wooopy....I liked the design of the core.

Any problems with the MAP system is the removal of heat from the water. NOT the core or heat from the air charge. BY THERORY.. I firmly believe that the MAP core is removing a far better volume of heat from the air than its **P counterpart. Thats enough for me and what I want. I can cool it down later at my leasure like this man did..This would expain the higher water temps in the previous tests by **P.

I think their test was baised on water temps and some spot SC temps. Whatever, doesnt matter. If you really want to measure/compare IC's install a "delta T" after your IC and you can measure your inlet temps real time. You can try to measure by water temps but there are other factors here to be considered....Vaccum, volume ect.....Who cares! Tune what you got!

I dont want to open up a can of worms here. But no ones products should be bashed for promotional reasons. Look/copy at what digitalsolo did. Make it work. Use your imagination and have fun...

Sorry to here about the radiater blues Ron...Is it a JB weld night tonight?

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Nope, it was just a little pinhole. I was able to crimp it closed. I plugged up the rad, and shot water in with a garden hose. It didn't leak, even with enough pressure to bypass the cap.