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Old 12-20-2016, 10:42 AM   #1
 
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Default Turbo Build for 2017

Well a couple weeks back the zzp torque converter gave out. So the trans is out again and back to Dave's to inspect and going to order a Precision unit now.

What do the 3800 gurus here say for an engine rebuild vs finding a stock used block? The current motor was just a motor i pulled from a junkyard regal GS, but I have a feeling based on how the oil was looking that it was slowly eating bearing material. I think it probably had 180k on it. It's fully apart now and I am either going to take it to a machine shop here and have it inspected and rebuilt or go with a used one with hopefully lower miles on it this time. I have a couple I have found between $700-$1000. Power wise somewhere around 450-500 is where I am aiming to set it at, though it'd make a lot more turned up I'd suspect with a Precision 6668. So trans is all taken care of, I just need a direction for a reliable motor setup.

Any help is appreciated!
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Old 12-20-2016, 10:55 AM   #2
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Most of us on here recommend a good use one. Rebuilts just never seem to last
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Old 12-20-2016, 10:59 AM   #3
 
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This should be a good thread.

Where are the usual suspects?
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:02 AM   #4
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X2 on a good used motor.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:06 AM   #5
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A good used L67 or L32 would be fine for many miles of a turbo car, the non-supercharged motors will throw rods over 400wtq. Seems like the 200k mile l67's make the most power, some over 600whp and running strong.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:25 AM   #6
 
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I would do a junk yard motor, My non supercharged motor never threw a rod at 505wtq, I would do a L36 personally the midrange tq seems to be a lot better on the higher compression and 450whp is hardly pushing it, I regretted going to the l67 in my turbo car it didn't feel nearly as snappy in the low and midrange
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:38 AM   #7
 
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Since it's winter, I definitely won't go pull one myself. So if used seems safe I'll go that direction. Any particular thing you guys look for? The car is setup to make a lot more power. But turned down and reliable and just can take it out and rip on it all season is my current goal.

Thanks for all the replies by the way.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:50 AM   #8
 
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Another vote for a pullout motor. The l67/l32's are definitely stronger, but you can still make tons of power on the l26/l36.

Just use common sense when looking for one. Check the oil. It'll most likely have some nice oil leaks.
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:13 PM   #9
 
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I did an eBay search and will probably get a parts yard motor that way as I don't have time to go do that myself this winter. So I can't check the oil. Are the L32's worth the extra couple hundred?
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:48 PM   #10
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the l32 supposedly has stronger rods but the results seem 50/50 on that
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:50 PM   #11
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Nobody has thrown an l32 rod, but plenty have thrown rods in the l26/l36, IMO it's not worth the risk for a few hundred dollars, just get the better motor (the l32).
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:53 PM   #12
 
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Nobody has thrown a l32 rod? Uh, what?

The l67 is stronger than the l32. So, if your choice is between those two, I'd go l67. If the l32 is a few hundred more than a l26/l36, I'd spring for the l32 with a turbo build.
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:32 PM   #13
 
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Thanks 10sec. Car definitely makes good power. In between a 99k mile Regal GS L67 for like 700$. And An L32 out of a GTP with 79k for 950$.
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:44 PM   #14
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L32 should be better.

don't bother rebuilding IMO. machine shop time not worth it for such inexpensive engines.
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:48 PM   #15
 
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Is 140k too many miles to be reliable? There is one 45 minutes from me for under 700 bucks.
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:52 PM   #16
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Steel pan/cast rod "l32" from early/mid 04 production. SIII piston with hard anodized crown with the more ductile cast steel rod.

Kevin's 144k mile lunched cam lobe 00 l67 just broke the trans yer again at 26psi....while at 3psi oil pressure at hot idle.

honestly that night it spun n broked... I was more worried about us harming the engine than worrying about the trans.
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Old 12-20-2016, 03:54 PM   #17
 
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700 for 140k mile engine? screw that should be able to get a whole damn car for 700-1k easy enough.
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:45 PM   #18
 
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I'm gonna just go with one of the normal L67's for a few hundred cheaper. Right at or sub 100k. I don't have time to deal with yanking out another engine right now. So I'm ok paying a little more. Just didn't want to sink 2-3 grand in a rebuilt motor and have it let go. If there are people here that know specifically what to have the machine shop do. Or what parts to use I'd be all ears. Everyone just says get a used block.
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:45 PM   #19
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Nah, don't get a motor built, it'll end up spinning a bearing or something like that. For some reason people just aren't able to rebuild them, or build them successfully. Just snag that l67, it's a good motor and there haven't been any cases of them throwing a rod. The l32 is better, but it's not really proven that it's actually better. It will beat up the bearings, but it'll last a hell of a lot longer than you're willing to continue refreshing the transmission. At 500whp, you're going to refreshing it every year at the least, pending how many track days it sees and how much traction it gets.
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:24 PM   #20
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I think my L67 had around 100k when I swapped it into my Monte. Used it for probably 30k miles with a cam and a bit more with the cam/heads combo. I had james do some oiling mods to it, used it for a bit longer with a turbo and now Dave has it and the fucker is still going strong. I would not hesitate to run another used L67 ever. Damn good engine. If I could bitch slap a transmission and slit its throat, however, that ****** ass 4t65e hd would get it.
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:33 PM   #21
 
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Well thank you guys for the responses. I've been going back and forth with this for a few weeks now. I should've just made a thread immediately. I am lucky enough that in the nearly 14 years I've been at it with this car, I am only on my first built trans. Stock one that came in the car with only a shift kit lasted me a lot of street time.

Going to order the new precision converter and snag a new engine. And will probably just keep my ST2 cam instead of move to the 5. Everything else is about as big/good as it can be.
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Old 12-20-2016, 08:57 PM   #22
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Yeah, I went [email protected] on 14lbs of boost with an xp cam on a single pass with no burnout. There's really no reason for going to huge cams, I went st5 with a build after that and it made good power but I am all about keeping power steering and AC, and it was a pain in the ass with no low down power and running the AC. The worst part was wondering when the trans was going to die, it's not an if, it's a when, and it's not cheap to fix. Stick with what you have, you can ruin event a "built" transmission with a completely stock motor and a turbo kit. There is just nothing but shit options for FWD 3800 cars, and to make it worse, they're heavy.
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Old 12-21-2016, 05:57 AM   #23
 
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That's a tad faster than I went on 12-13 lbs on an L36 on my TE-45 (Buick/GN housing) and the ST2 on the stock trans. That was my favorite setup. Turbo hit so fast. Then things spiraled out of control. Wound up with a massive turbo and an L67. I definitely prefer the L36. The torque converter was used and the only not great part in the trans. I don't get to the track often. Just spirited drives to work or around town.

It has no AC, no ABS, cruise because of the Fbody intake and I didn't feel like trying to make that work and I needed the space. Lots of stuff that I didn't need. But not gutted anywhere. I live near Fort Wayne, IN. It doesn't get too terribly hot here. And on the days it does. I have no desire to let that turbo further cook my engine bay. Lol.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:26 AM   #24
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for reference, my white car is still running on a $75 L67 (yes $75) with an S1X cam and 90# LS springs with a factory timing set. Over 80k miles on it since it was put together.

I don't really expect the engine to ever be the weak point, especially at power level you want to make. head gasket sealing would be the biggest challenge to me, and even that isn't so difficult on the SII engine.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:27 AM   #25
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If you want to make a transmission last, lose weight on the car.

Ron Vogel Racing. Perfect example.
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