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Old 10-22-2015, 11:25 AM   #1
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Default FWD anti-dive

I've been thinking about this since I had the SSEi at the track...

I want to try to make an anti-dive/squat that functions simliar to how the sway bars work. Well, exactly the same actually, just front to rear. Tie the front wheel to the rear wheel on the same side, on both sides.

Does anybody have any background with making custom sway bars? In order to make this work I'd have to be able to find a long enough bar to start with. So I think that limits me to a custom set of bars. And then I'd have to figure out if they are weld-on ends or some other method.
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:26 AM   #2
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I know you are the random crazy custom car guy

but what in the shit
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:29 AM   #3
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Solution: Buy a RWD car.

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Old 10-22-2015, 11:39 AM   #4
 
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What suspension do you currently have?

I know you can alter anti-dive by altering the rear mount points on the front control arm but then you would have more lift on acceleration.
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
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What suspension do you currently have?

I know you can alter anti-dive by altering the rear mount points on the front control arm but then you would have more lift on acceleration.
anti-dive under braking geometry and anti rise under acceleration geometry. .. is the same suspension pick up points locations.
for the front lower control arms the front pivot point needs to be lower than the rear. there are minor changes depending on how much castor is configured into the strut as to what percentage anti dive/anti rise you'll get
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:45 AM   #6
 
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see I knew you would correct me if I was wrong. Been dealing with antisquat modeling too much.
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Old 10-22-2015, 12:12 PM   #7
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Custom valved struts/shocks with intense spring rates will keep the car from dipping in ALL directions. Problem solved.
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Old 10-22-2015, 12:15 PM   #8
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Get 4 way adjustable shocks and turn up the rebound
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:34 AM   #9
 
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Commission James to fab a new chassis from his steady source scrap aluminum and access to machine tools.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:22 AM   #10
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While a firmer suspension might help with this, that's going to effect driveability/stance/etc.

Another, maybe better, thought I had was to use air actuated cylinders at each LCA to the frame. I could plumb air lines reversed between the front and rear wheel for the same effect, then I could use the ELC pump to bias pressure if needed, and vent them when not needed. Might even be cheaper than trying to get some bars made, and push-button on/off.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:27 AM   #11
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You're not actually going to do this, are you?
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:32 AM   #12
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pull the struts/shocks and replace them with solid pipes. problem solved
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:52 AM   #13
 
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Is all this to cure drag racing issues?
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattstrike View Post
While a firmer suspension might help with this, that's going to effect driveability/stance/etc.

Another, maybe better, thought I had was to use air actuated cylinders at each LCA to the frame. I could plumb air lines reversed between the front and rear wheel for the same effect, then I could use the ELC pump to bias pressure if needed, and vent them when not needed. Might even be cheaper than trying to get some bars made, and push-button on/off.
A proper setup suspension will do what you want. No such thing exists for this turd chassis though.

What you're talking about is crazy.
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Old 10-23-2015, 12:04 PM   #15
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Crazy compared to what: drilling holes in the body to run chain or cables to limit suspension travel, running the rear ELC at max height or replacing the struts with a solid tube?
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Old 10-23-2015, 12:46 PM   #16
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I'm not sure what is happening here.
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Old 10-23-2015, 12:59 PM   #17
 
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I just remember watching BadSSEi back in the day run a hundred times, and never
saw it have any problem at the track.
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:22 PM   #18
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That car had wheelie bars to jack the rear end up, so I fix the problem for the track but not the street?
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:32 PM   #19
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the cable mod works quite well the air ride is even easier and better as it does still allow some suspension movement to keep you from getting squirrely up top. Air Ride is a great option for the G & H bodies
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:41 PM   #20
 
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Badssei didn't always have wheelie bars. Didn't come till much later.

Talked to mattm about the turbo impala with wheelie bars, and he said they
didnt help much at all, and that the cable mod was really just as good.

For me, my setup was all retarded at first, car all over the place.
Left, right, front end up was mile high up, ass end on the ground.
shitty 60s, and felt unsafe.

Got the GMR diff, zzp lca's ... dropped the front end on coil overs and
stock replacement struts still in the rear, but cable mod.

Car is now straight down the track, and super safe feeling.
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