billet knuckles, truck bearing and 15" clearing vette caliper

Turbocharged400sbc

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did some work

sorta that whole "and the kitchen sink" thing here but

when your making a billet 7075 knuckle for a racecar you might as well go for broke.

its setup to use the larger GM 1500 truck wheel bearings and outer CV's but machined for the 5x114.3 to use the small early GTP 10.9" rotors with the 6 piston calipers.

i figure with the extra airflow the rotors should have no problem dumping the heat without warping

i think im gonna beef up the lower ball joint/steering bracket setup and ill probably just mirror it up top for future changes.

unfortunatly even with the lower ball joint being as close to the rim as possible...the control arms and steering link are likely going to be running at an upward angle to the knuckles with 18" tires and not being able to get the LBJ closer to 4.5" off the ground.

 

Turbocharged400sbc

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well so much for a bit of april fools there....but i got a bit more figured out on the knuckle design.

a few things ive got a good idea to rework but this is a roughout of the general design and layout as i imagine it.

plenty of air flow paths for the rotor and bearing to keep cool, for both the 11" and 12" rotors

im shooting for all 4 knuckles to be identical, with the opposite side just flipped upside down.
by doing this i have a chance with the caliper mount for a nice flexible brake swap...(ive only got the 15" rim location drawn out), but ill be putting the oem caliper location on the other side.
at some point in the future when we want to have some fun we can flip the knuckles and toss on the 12" rotors. no brake bleeding or anything, just flip the knuckles and put the larger/smaller rotor on and bolt the F body bracket/caliper on....

the fun part is that this will take almost 800$ just for the 4" aluminum plate :rofl:

 

Turbocharged400sbc

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crap this is gonna be tight in the 11" rotor position
 

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Turbocharged400sbc

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I dont get it

it was a sorta serious april fools post.

when starting on the 442 we went with the "cheaper" route of oem type parts over the more "expensive" upper/lower A arm

problem is we cant make the oem mcpherson work with the 442....unless we want 1" suspension compression or nearly 8" ride height :hsughlol:

so we have nearly 3 grand in custom, new, oem suspension parts to unload and we get to go back to what i can only ASSuME would have actually been the cheaper route or the U/L a arms (aka SLA).

a major issue is that the sla setup with the stock knuckle and a bracket bolted to the strut ear, would lead to a really short upper control arm.

on the rear this isnt so bad, up front however....holy hell does it make for some undesirable geometry as well as sticking you with all oem type crap.

so im tossing all the OEM BS out and since the damn chassis and car is a clean sheet, time to stop the horseshit and clean sheet this problem as well.

now this aint cheap, but we're getting a helluva deal. our current Fbody brakes are retained, using ears far stronger than the newer vette uprights, we can build the car and run it on 12" rotors with all the 16" rims/tires that we have, as well as easy larger vette style upgrades.

in the future though we'll need 4 corner slicks, and the ability to use the F body brakes with the smaller 11" rotor will let us use the 15x10-16" wide mustang fitment rims and much cheaper and plentiful selection of 28x15" slicks.

swap rotor, rebolt bracket and you just swapped from 1/4 mile drag brakes/slicks to 1/2 mile/street brakes/rims tires with no brake bleeding.

knuckle has through hub air supply for rotor cooling, max area at 11" and a fair bit more at the 12" rotors 1" larger dia air entry. surely directional vane rotors would be ideal but this is easily ducted cool air, and is a huge improvement over the oem knuckle with the smaller 11" rotor

the layout also makes easy mounting of any required driveshaft safety loops that we may be mandated to run inthe future.

huge upside is the knuckle is modular for 4 identical units to fit each corner of the car.
the modular adjustable upper and lower sections allow for the rear to use an A/H arm design to get rid of the need for a toe bar/tie rod, as well as an upper/lower A arm up front.... it will also allow for changes in the ball joint positioning for suspension geometry or upgrades.

this lets us use the massive monoballs for the upper and lower front A arms since the lower is carrying the cars weight, and oversized shank (7/8ths) 3/4 rod ends at the outside of the rear (x3) while all four inboard joints at each end are the double adjustable 3/4 rod ends. this lets us use almost all of our current joints and parts but requires a few additional parts.

the modular design also allows up to move the steering rack lower in the chassis and move the steering arm lower for a nice bumpsteer free frontend.

with the range built in to the arms as well as the chassis/knuckle, we can adjust track width and all points of alignment to fit whatever rims/tires we come across while being able to fine tune the front and rear suspension for good streetability or track manners.

using conventional strange double adjustable coilovers ends up cheaper than the damn zzp agx stuff by a hair. the plus side is that the removable rear powertrain now only needs two casters as we can roll it out from under the car on the edges of the rotors or with some cheap 15" montana rims without tires.

cliffs: im about to pick off 7 birds with one expensive stone
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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btw to make that 80's tron pic a little more figurable, its the drivers front knuckle viewed from the trans side and you can see the upper and lower monoball joints. the thin red plates (chromoly likely) sandwich an aluminum spacer block. the monoball sleeves are offset for a quick roll center adjustment by just flipping the sleeves top to bottom without need of changing the knuckle plates/spacers.

Closer still...
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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i took some pics of the test mockup.

the 11" position will get the 12mm holes of the oem F body brackets. the brackets clear the bearing bolts just fine, plenty of room, but the smaller dia bolts have a smaller head so we'd have a bit more room. only a short section of the bearing support needs clearance and with the 12mm oem brackets id feel better about grinding about .080 off the bracket so that the billet aluminum doesnt need to be machined into the bearing bolt bores for clearance id like that wall to be at least .020 thick.


the 12"" ears and holes just barely clear the caliper but a little adjustment to the shape of the ear gives plenty of room for the caliper travel in the 11" position.
you can see how on top of each other the bolts are.


and now we come to the only headache, which isnt really a huge headache.

the caliper/pad mounting bracket has a bridge across the outboard pad ears. this hits the rotor/bearing hat in the 11" position.

the good news is that the bracket looks to be cast steel and while the bridge hits, the pad and the caliper clear by miles. so the easy solution is to cut out the old bridge and weld in a new one across the face.

so all we need is a few pad brackets from the junkyard and we'll have our solution.
it looks like i can make the bridge quite tall, to the point of being able to cut an olds rocket emblem and 442 into em fer some bling :rofl:

so aside from modifying the bridge the 15" clearing F body brakes are a go, so the knuckles getting it and we can work on the brackets after the knuckles are shipped off.

with better cooling airflow for the smaller 11" rotor as well as the dual piston aluminum F body calipers i believe we wont have any braking issues trying to slow down on the top end and we'll shave a crapload of cost at each corner with the cheaper 15" rims and rubber.

 

Turbocharged400sbc

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there is when that birdge is removed and a flat bridge is welded across the face of the caliper at the caliper finger indention's. you can see them in the first pic, notice the arch.

the 15" drag rims we'd end up with would have plenty of clearance in this area, the factory 16" is close but still clears so we'd still be able to use the 16" rims with the 11" rotor/caliper.


the primary saving grace is that the brackets are cast steel and should take the welding just fine
 
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