3800 GP Starts, but dies

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imported_Ron Vogel

Guest
I'd bet on the key thing. I had a key made for my wife and it does the same thing. Turn on the ignition (W/O starting) and listen to the pump, if it makes noise you're ok on the pump. I believe when I tried my wife's key I get a "security" light pop up somewhere. It's been a while since I've tried it so I can't remember. A vac line can do the same thing, look at the line feeding in the TB behind the tps. The line has a molded end that tends to crack in a seam where it's hard to see. If it is that, you should at least be able to keep it running with holding the throttle.
 

alexgtp

TCG Elite Member
Aug 3, 2007
2,272
0
Alternator.

ONly reason being is that the car is actually starting.
When you rev the car will it stay on?
By a cple of seconds..does this mean you start it and it sputters than dies.
or it actually warms up than dies after a minute?


This might be due to a bad fuel pump resistor.


Try hotwiring it.


Look under your engine bay. Look at where the fuses are.

Look for the one marked FUEL PUMP Speed circuit. NOt the FUel PUMP one.

Pull out the resistor. and do the following to it.

DIAGRAM OF PIN LAYOUT!
x( a ) x( d )
x( b )
x( c ) x( e )

Look at the pins this is what they will look like.
Using 18guage wire or smaller wire Bypass the resistor by wiring ( a ) to ( e ) if this does not work than try ( b ) to ( e )
.
Than put fuse back into place making sure the wires stay intact.

Now start the car and see if it stays on.
 
Yeah I start it and it just dies out after a few seconds. It doesn't matter if I give it gas or not. I believe I had a problem with the fuel resistor (can't remember the exact name of what it was) before and it did the same sort of thing when that happened, but they relocated it and replaced it. When I get home from work, I will have to try the wiring trick. If that doesn't work then probably the key they were talking about, or alternator or fuel pump or something. Thanks for the ideas everyone, hoepfully it is something simple, if not have to get it towed to get it worked on, what fun.
 
Bad MAF sensor is my guess.

After my mom's 98 GA sucked up a bunch of water, her car would do the same thing. It would start, sound good, and then within two seconds, it would die, no matter if i gave it gas or not.

try unplugging the MAF sensor and start the car. The car will start and run with it removed, because it will just use data stored in the PCM, if it knows it is unplugged.

Thanks to Charles giving me that solution when I needed it!!!!!


If you unplug it and the car starts and doesn't die, then replace the MAF sensor. It the problem is still there, I don't have any more suggestions.

Steve
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

Guest
One thing to add about the maf...The car doesn't rely on the O2 sensor during cold starts, it relies solely on the maf. It switches to the 02 only after it is warmed up. So this is always a possiblity. If you disturbed the wires during the heat shield install it may not be getting a good connection. I've seen these things locked in and get a bad connection. Something to look at anyway. Always sucks to have these things hit in the cold weather. I was once stranded in Iowa (for a week) with what ended up being a bad pickup coil in an hei distributor. It's really hard to diagnose these things when you're freezing your ass off.
 

GTPictor

Addict
Nov 16, 2008
573
0
McHenry
Originally posted by MrT+Jan 30 2004, 03:46 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (MrT @ Jan 30 2004, 03:46 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-alexgtp@Jan 30 2004, 02:41 PM

This might be due to a bad fuel pump resistor.

That's my guess.....

MrT [/b][/quote]
agreed sounds just like what happend to my car.
 
L

lliquibop

Guest
yeah... my car actually died while i was driving... 45+ mph... lost power... rpms very scattered... and then died... i used my momentum to pull into a gas station... the car had been running at that point for about an hour and 15 minutes... so it was warm... i have a DHP... so the key isnt the issue... no security light or anything... no codes thrown... nothing

about 3000 miles ago... i had the fuel pump, regulator, and filter changed...

these were changed because of my 15 seconds of cranking before start up.

after the 3 were replaced... it was a far smoother start.

but since the weather has dipped below 5. my car has had a killer rough idle. i figured due to the cold... and i have the poly mounts... so... you know... its a loud growel. but while the car is running... its got good power...so its not like i have a bad wire or coil pack. (but the oil has a good hint of gas ..:could be tpical winter blow-by)

a week ago... my car started but seemed to fail to load the ABS... so i got the light. the start was weak... but it started with a second added to the cranking time. its been cold..
anyways... i pulled out of the lot... up the street and turned onto the main road... there was a train... so i turned my car off then on... to get ABS back... well car failed to start... i called my boss and he came to give me a jump... we tried for 8 minutes... till i gave up... well i gave his cables back tried again... but gave it a lil gas... and it started up...

then today.... on my way to world of wheels... when i lost all power... so i had to be towed.

fuck... i need a car!

can someone dumb up the fuel pump resistor thing?? ... like where do i find it... how do i test it... adn othe suggestions...

kyle
 
My money's on the fuel pump resistor. We have a kit now to bypass that. It is a common problem on all the supercharged cars. It can and will leave you stranded. It runs the pump at low speed when there is little to no load. The fuel you are running off of (why the car runs for a few seconds and stops) is the fuel in the rail when the key is turned and the pump is primed (runs for a few seconds). After that pressure drops, the fuel pump is supposed to take over and run it on slow. The fuel pump resistor is a horse-shoe shaped white resistor on the fenderwell kinda behind the battery. They heat up, crack, and rust internally. It is only found on the GTP's. Do what alex said, bypass that relay. It should get you going again.
 

gtphale

TCG Elite Member
Nov 9, 2008
1,578
0
Aurora
that is if you carry a meter with you when stranded on the road. lol


Just open the underhood fuse box and bypass it like Alex posted this will let you know if that is the problem.Also heard you can just bare the two wires and run a jumper wire across the wires. Haven't tried that one yet though.
 
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