3800 woohoo! Winter buildup plans about finalized :)

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Almost got my winter buildup plans finalized

Definite:
-Polished& refinished factory LS1 crankshaft
-Billet 6.125” connecting rods
-Diamond Flat top Piston w/2cc reliefs
-Diamond Pro-select rings
-High performance bearings
-All Gaskets, seals and hardware for short block
-Fully balanced/blueprinted/Finish hone w/torque plate, assembled

This will take care of the blow by issues I'm experiencing as well as beef up the bottom end considerably (stock crank is good till like 650bhp)

Having the motor pulled, torn down rebuilt w/above and reinstalled.

Milling heads to raise CR to 11.3:1

Strong possibilities:
Walbro Fuel pump
Dyno Tuning
Selling Dry Nitrous kit and buying a wet kit

Only thing that sucks is I ran outta money for the 12 bolt rearend so I won't be running anything more than a drag radial (maybe try an ET Street once to hit a number)

Also haven't decided what to do w/the cam... currently 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA .. but may go to a 230/227 .581/.581 112 cam ...

This year I'm shooting for 11.6 on motor full weight (3800lbs w/me in it) and low 11s maybe high 10s on a 100 wet shot.

Should be a good year

Click to read more...

 

[imported_GraFFix]

Sweet! cant wait to see that thing run.

 

[imported_Diavolo]

Only thing that sucks is I ran outta money for the 12 bolt rearend so I won't be running anything more than a drag radial (maybe try an ET Street once to hit a number)

Why would your GTP need that anways :lol:

 

[CoolGTX]

Is your stock T/B and MAF for sale?

shoot me a price if avaiable


btw....sweet..

 

[antpearl]

that's gonna be bad ass....

 

[Royalgtp]

I cant wait to get my TA.

I envy you.

 

[sweetness]

Sounds like you are gonna have a rocket on your hands. I have a couple of concerns/thoughts though:

I HIGHLY doubt your rear is going to last to any traction on anything close to a mid 11sec run. That 10-bolt is ok so long as you don't get traction, but it WILL fail if you try running with anything more that street tires. Even then, if you get traction it is gone. You may want to wait on something in there like the juice until you have a rear. You can probably find a 12 bolt for like 2200-2400 dollars online. or you can go to LS1.com and find out who is making built ford 8.8in rears for LS1's. they can be built to handle upto about 800 wheel hp, and someone just started offering them. I think the cost was somewhere in the area of 1500 to 1800 dollars. You can't beat that.

IIRC the stock crank should be good PAST 800whp. there are a couple guys over at LS1 running a lot of boost or N2O with over 600 hp to the wheels with no issues. the accepted limit is 800whp. if you haven't already taken out the crank save the money and put it towards a new rear end.

Finally: If you are going to get a cam you will really want to get a tune done too. In that case you might as well get the fuel pump and new injectors too so you can get it all done at once.

Im not trying to be a PITA. I am just seeing some money saving oppurtunities in your plan that you should take care of. The rear end is a must though. You won't be able to pull an 11 sec pass on stock weight car with that rear. Certainly not with ET streets or drag radials. It is gone. Just replace it now before you destroy it mid season and can't afford to replace it until next summer. that would be one hell of a bummer with that engine sitting in your garage with nowhere to go.

BC

 

[horist]

Originally posted by sweetness@Jan 13 2004, 09:03 PM


I HIGHLY doubt your rear is going to last to any traction on anything close to a mid 11sec run.  That 10-bolt is ok so long as you don't get traction, but it WILL fail if you try running with anything more that street tires. 
IIRC the stock crank should be good PAST 800whp.  there are a couple guys over at LS1 running a lot of boost or N2O with over 600 hp to the wheels with no issues.  the accepted limit is 800whp.  if you haven't already taken out the crank save the money and put it towards a new rear end.

Finally:  If you are going to get a cam you will really want to get a tune done too.  In that case you might as well get the fuel pump and new injectors too so you can get it all done at once.

Im not trying to be a PITA.  I am just seeing some money saving oppurtunities in your plan that you should take care of.  The rear end is a must though.  You won't be able to pull an 11 sec pass on stock weight car with that rear.  Certainly not with ET streets or drag radials.  It is gone.  Just replace it now before you destroy it mid season and can't afford to replace it until next summer.  that would be one hell of a bummer with that engine sitting in your garage with nowhere to go.

BC

The stock rear is weak but definetly capable of 11 second passes Keith (Magnus) is running low 11s on his stock 10 bolt (though he's under 3000lbs race weight) and lots of people are running 11s w/the stock rear (DriveaTransAm runs 11.2s on ET Streets , stock trans stock rear, minor motor work, no spray... he gets a good amount of passes between rearend breakages and he's cutting mid to high 1.5 second 60')... if it's going to break it's going to break when leaving the line... hence the reason I'll be running Nittos most of the time... maybe ET Streets once or twice to get a number... but the stock rear is stronger than some give it credit for... just not strong for long

Not going forged crank so there's no issues there (not worth the extra 2500 or so... unless I was going to a 382). They're just cleaning up the stocker... I dunno about 800whp though for a stock crank... it's not going to last long at that power ... It's strong but after enough high revving passes it'll fatigue and cause problems... For the most part I've heard 650-700 fly wheel hp as the max safe range...

I already have a medium cam (224/224 561/561 112) but am thinking of going bigger... I have LS1 Edit, Autotap and a Wide Band O2 sensor so I can do most of the tuning... but since i'm having the motor rebuilt I'm going to have the car dyno tuned after the motor rebuild regardless of cam.

Shouldn't be a problem pulling 11s on the stock rear though w/my 17" Nittos best of last year was 12.1 on drag radials (1.70 60') (running rich since I hadn't installed my WB O2 yet, and experiencing significant blow by) and I know plenty of people locally running high to mid 11s w/3400-3600lb cars on stock 10 bolt... drag radials aren't going to hook up much better than maybe a 1.65 60' (though there have been some local guys getting 1.59 60' on nittos) so I shouldn't have any issues breaking off the line. so I'll replace it when I have the cash, but it's not high on the priorities for right now (1.70 is the best the car's seen... 1.65 will prolly be the best after the rebuild ... so shouldn't be a problem getting a few passes and if it breaks I have a spare I bought last year...

Already have 42lb injectors in it and depending on price I'll have them install an intank walbro at same time... if it's too much for labor I'll just do it myself (I've done all of the mods in my sig except the transmission myself... so I know a thing or two about LS1s )


J/O sorry but still keeping stock MAF and TB

 

[sweetness]

Sounds like you have pretty well planned this out. good luck with everything. I didn't notice you were running an auto before, which is supposed to be easier on the rear end then dumping an M6 at 5k. Hope your the rear holds out for you. I just drove a relatively stock Z29 with a 4.11 strange 12 bolt. With nitto's you couldn't get traction at WOT until you were moving at least 40mph. Let us know how everything works out. I would really like a ride in that thing when you are done.

BC

 

[Royalgtp]

Originally posted by sweetness@Jan 14 2004, 01:18 AM
Sounds like you have pretty well planned this out. good luck with everything. I didn't notice you were running an auto before, which is supposed to be easier on the rear end then dumping an M6 at 5k. Hope your the rear holds out for you. I just drove a relatively stock Z29 with a 4.11 strange 12 bolt. With nitto's you couldn't get traction at WOT until you were moving at least 40mph. Let us know how everything works out. I would really like a ride in that thing when you are done.

BC

I wanna ride to damm it!

I have loved that car since I was 15 years old!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[horist]

Well My original plans fell through Not getting the 348 sportsman block I specified above ...

Instead I got a KILLER deal on a Lunati 382 rotating assembly kit

Plus now I AM getting the 12 bolt (Moser, 3.73, ABS and TCS)

 

[sweetness]

AWESOME! How much did you get that lunati assembly for?? That is an expensive set up. ($3500 iirc.) I am happy to see that you are getting the 12 bolt though. I was really worried you would make one pass with good traction and that 10-bolt would have been left at the starting line. What made you choose the 3.73 over the 4.10??


I still want a ride.

BC

 

[horist]

I was originally thinking of going 4.10 but I want to keep the car somewhat streetable (Manual cars + 4.10 = not bad... Auto cars + 4.10 = huge RPM during highway driving)

Also I'm going with what seems to work w/alot of friends who have similar setups. I know a few other people w/similar setups (but bigger converters) and they ran 4.10s at first... but they were coming very close to shifting into Overdrive in the 1/4 mile... w/this 382 I'd be even closer (though I'll prolly spin the motor to ~7000 RPM now .. valvetrain should be able to take it)

Got the 382 for 3G even... Brand spanking new but the guy that owns it has to sell it (good friend of mine) ... so for that price I couldn't pass it up.. the engine rebuild before was $2800 (rods, pistons, machine work, arp rod bolts, rings, bearings, etc...) and that was plus tax...

 

[horist]

not getting a Moser 12 bolt now


a Moser Ford 9" is the same price add stronger and easier (ALOT) to change gears ... Just need a tire now