pulling GTP Trans
- Thread starter Xtant12
- Start date
You tryin to scare this guy into getting rid of the car by looking at that thread LOL.
Guess who else's trans is taking another shit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPAnCvKJaro
^^^Definitely the route I should have gone in retrospect.
Since this guy is getting a built transmission he should be a lot better off than the unlubricated anal raping my car gave me. I just had a string of bad luck for the last few months of 2013.
yeah I was unsure if you had to lift it out from the top, or you need to have it on a lift to get out from bottom. Im currently looking for a place to remove it and install my new one when I get it from ZZP. So far I found a place that said 400.00. I was told its a 4 hour job. What do you guys think??
It CAN be done in 4 hours if you know what you're doing, my swap took many times that due to stupid problems. Just be safe and plan on 2 days, take your time, don't rage like me.
Some people said it's easier to pull the engine and trans.out the top, but I'd personally always do it the way we did. support engine with strap and board going across the top of the bay, drop subframe by itself then unbolt the transmission and used a floor jack to back it off the motor and bring it down.
I don't know for sure because I never pulled the motor on mine, but it seems like a lot more work with wiring, hoses, exhaust and other extra shit around the motor. Just let it float.
Some people said it's easier to pull the engine and trans.out the top, but I'd personally always do it the way we did. support engine with strap and board going across the top of the bay, drop subframe by itself then unbolt the transmission and used a floor jack to back it off the motor and bring it down.
I don't know for sure because I never pulled the motor on mine, but it seems like a lot more work with wiring, hoses, exhaust and other extra shit around the motor. Just let it float.
that seems to be the average going rate for an engine or trans swap in these cars.
Pulling from the bottom is much nicer, if you have no reason to
touch the motor. If have to touch motor to point of draining, ect,
might as well go from top and pull them both.
Pics of our rig for going out the bottom. Life was easier having
a lift. We dropped the subframe off first leaving the trans bolted in.
Just used the aframe stands to drop it on, but if no lift, can use
the furniture movers under it maybe to lessen the drop. Then
used the furniture movers to lower the engine/trans on, and then
unbolted the trans and let it rest on the mover while lifting the car
back up.
Done this a few times with just a hoist lifting the front of the car up.
Wrapping the chain through the radiator support.
Works, just a bit more scary, and car going up in angle seemed to cause
things to hit and hang.. but has worked out each time.
touch the motor. If have to touch motor to point of draining, ect,
might as well go from top and pull them both.
Pics of our rig for going out the bottom. Life was easier having
a lift. We dropped the subframe off first leaving the trans bolted in.
Just used the aframe stands to drop it on, but if no lift, can use
the furniture movers under it maybe to lessen the drop. Then
used the furniture movers to lower the engine/trans on, and then
unbolted the trans and let it rest on the mover while lifting the car
back up.
Done this a few times with just a hoist lifting the front of the car up.
Wrapping the chain through the radiator support.
Works, just a bit more scary, and car going up in angle seemed to cause
things to hit and hang.. but has worked out each time.
id probably pull subframes more often if i didnt see that they never seem right afterwards.
that frontend flexes all over with weight.
the factory installs the subframe with all the weight on it motor and trans with the unibody just supporting its own sheetmetal.
we sorta do need solid mounts...those damn rubber mounts can fight each other if you tighten them without the captured nuts being directly above the bolt head the rubber bushing collapse unevenly.
if you do it that way make sure you do final adjustments with the motors weight on the subframe and not on the motor hoist before you align and tighten the bushings. you have to make sure you measure that she's square
that frontend flexes all over with weight.
the factory installs the subframe with all the weight on it motor and trans with the unibody just supporting its own sheetmetal.
we sorta do need solid mounts...those damn rubber mounts can fight each other if you tighten them without the captured nuts being directly above the bolt head the rubber bushing collapse unevenly.
if you do it that way make sure you do final adjustments with the motors weight on the subframe and not on the motor hoist before you align and tighten the bushings. you have to make sure you measure that she's square
We use the adjustment/alignment rods or whatever they are called?
There are holes in the subframe and the frame of the car itself. Shove
these rods up in there while tightening down the subframe. Makes it
line up pretty much perfectly every time.
Sean cut his own set and makes replacing subframes and getting the
alignment and every done perfect.
Alignments at tirediscounters come out perfect almost each time.
There are holes in the subframe and the frame of the car itself. Shove
these rods up in there while tightening down the subframe. Makes it
line up pretty much perfectly every time.
Sean cut his own set and makes replacing subframes and getting the
alignment and every done perfect.
Alignments at tirediscounters come out perfect almost each time.
dont trust those holes, those are more of a rough alignment.
its easy enough to tweak the sheetmetal in an accident or a service where some cowboy tech just lets the motor/subframe hand during a service/repair/etc.
i deally your on a rack with the sensors hooked up and you use the rail jacks to lift the unibody while tweaking the subframe to bring camber/caster/thrust centerline straight.
big difference between mass production and perfection....not to mention id be hesitant to believe that the zzp arms are dead nuts perfect after dealing with Tommy's GP
its easy enough to tweak the sheetmetal in an accident or a service where some cowboy tech just lets the motor/subframe hand during a service/repair/etc.
i deally your on a rack with the sensors hooked up and you use the rail jacks to lift the unibody while tweaking the subframe to bring camber/caster/thrust centerline straight.
big difference between mass production and perfection....not to mention id be hesitant to believe that the zzp arms are dead nuts perfect after dealing with Tommy's GP
Yea they are drivable. ..but wayyy off stock dimensions. ...going from brand new gm lca's with 5k to the zzp. .. nothing in that alignment was the same....even his passenger side arms rear bushing wasn't welded on straight with the forward pivot axis.....
I don't think the has been sitting on those LCA's for long...they look like the newest version. ...
I still wouldn't trust shit and would go through a full thrust/squaring alignment....then id never drop the subframe again....
I don't think the has been sitting on those LCA's for long...they look like the newest version. ...
I still wouldn't trust shit and would go through a full thrust/squaring alignment....then id never drop the subframe again....
I worked at a trans shop for a bit doing installs. If you keep track of exactly where the subframe is in relation to the alignment holes,(take a few pics, make drawings on tape), it will go right back. If you are unsure an alignment will fix it right up after. The most trouble I've seen is the inner steel sleeve inside the subframe mounts gets rusty. When you go to put it back together the bushings crush all crooked.
pull the body plugs out and blow out the inside or the captured nut housing...the rust/crud collects and if the nut shifts (you lift it up while threading bolt in) it'll sit down crooked and cause that. you may have to chip shit away with picks/scraper/narrow screwdriver.
but generally if you blow it out you can tighten, loosen and get it to sit down where she was originally
its one of the many reasons i use to justify yanking the motor n trans...especially since with most vehicles having a trans done it also could use a regasketing or an oil pan gasket at the least...
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