Need input on next 3800

[rowekmr]

This is my second time buying W Body and wanted to get some input BEFORE I buy this one to avoid unnecessary problems. Let me know what you think about this combination:

2000 GTP Daytona Pace Car
160K on body
65K on L26 short block topped with ported polished heads with oversize SS valves
3.25 pulley
AL 103 spark plugs w/10.5mm wires
Comp Cams NIC cam
ZZP 105# valvesprings
Gen V SC
LS1 TB with LQ4 MAF
60# injectos
Street tuned for E85
SD Headers with 3 DP and 2.5 exhaust

Engine put together with ARP studs/bolts and fel pro gaskets

Trans built by Andrew in Grand Rapids with 3k miles
all new clutches and solenoids
300m input shaft
7/8 drive chain
hardened 4th hub
shift kit

The car has wideband AFR, boost, voltage gauges and trans temp

He said it dyno'd at 280fwhp with just the cam and L26 block with everything else added later.
He says it has the usual rocker arm and 1/4 panel rust.

What I am looking for is a daily driver that can get decent mpgs with good driveability but run in the 12's at the track (if I go).


Do you think this is a good foundation?

Click to read more...

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

buy anus' daytona

 

[PANDA]

#1. you wont get good MPG with that setup
#2. you don't want ANY rust, it will just get worse
#3. dyno numbers seem low (who tuned it?)
#4. don't trust guys from Michigan.
#5. how much do you want to spend?

 

[rowekmr]

Where is it posted?

buy anus' daytona

 

[rowekmr]

I thought most Midwest W bodies get rust in those places (and strut towers)?

He said the dyno numbers were before he added the SC, TB and MAF and tuned it for E85, (and possibly pulley) does it still sound low?

You might have to explain #4 to me better lol

I want to spend as little as I can to crack the 12's. I chose the wrong words in my post it won't be my daily driver as I plan on driving the others too I just wanted something that was reliable as a DD.

#1. you wont get good MPG with that setup
#2. you don't want ANY rust, it will just get worse
#3. dyno numbers seem low (who tuned it?)
#4. don't trust guys from Michigan.
#5. how much do you want to spend?

 

[10sec]

A reliable DD doesn't have such an extensive mod list. That car can snap a timing chain, trans can fail, rust will destroy it, and running E85 as a daily sucks. Get a bolt on GTP or something similar. Once you start adding cams and whatnot the reliable factor starts taking a plunge. Some run forever, some barely make it 10k miles before the timing chain tensioner takes a crap and pretty much destroys the motor.

If said car was sub $3,000 I would say do it, if it's more, you're throwing away your money.

Also remember, you can get a GP GT toss on a turbo kit and make more power on pump gas. Probably costing as much as that guy is asking for his car (for the car and turbo kit), just a guess though. Turbo is the way to go with these cars, leaving everything stock (motor wise) cause you know you can't have a 12sec wbody without the undeniably weak and shitty trans.

 

[1quick]

It sounds like a solid combo, but I didn't see a price ,I would not spend more than maybe 3k on a high miles rusty gp with those mods

 

[10sec]

Says the guy that got 2 GP's at the worlds lowest price!!!!! I'm hatin' yeah, fine. Jerk!

 

[Angus]

Yeah, buy my grand prix.

 

[1quick]

Says the guy that got 2 GP's at the worlds lowest price!!!!! I'm hatin' yeah, fine. Jerk!

Go on Craig's list and search needs trans wbodys popin up all over lol, just gotta haggle them you can beat my deals I bet, I found a couple in Indiana I was thinking about but I didn't want to drive that far

 

[rowekmr]

He's asking 4K fpr it.
Does the timing tensioner break with low miles? This engine was recently rebuilt.
Are the rocker panels just support for the body panels or do they carry structural loads of the frame (unibody?)?
Are built trans still unreliable?
I didn't plan on driving it for more than 1 or 2 years so it didn't have to be in tip top shape.
I appreciate the input and would rather be safe than sorry.

A reliable DD doesn't have such an extensive mod list. That car can snap a timing chain, trans can fail, rust will destroy it, and running E85 as a daily sucks. Get a bolt on GTP or something similar. Once you start adding cams and whatnot the reliable factor starts taking a plunge. Some run forever, some barely make it 10k miles before the timing chain tensioner takes a crap and pretty much destroys the motor.

If said car was sub $3,000 I would say do it, if it's more, you're throwing away your money.

Also remember, you can get a GP GT toss on a turbo kit and make more power on pump gas. Probably costing as much as that guy is asking for his car (for the car and turbo kit), just a guess though. Turbo is the way to go with these cars, leaving everything stock (motor wise) cause you know you can't have a 12sec wbody without the undeniably weak and shitty trans.

 

[rowekmr]

Aren't built trans about 2K+ installed?

Go on Craig's list and search needs trans wbodys popin up all over lol, just gotta haggle them you can beat my deals I bet, I found a couple in Indiana I was thinking about but I didn't want to drive that far

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

A "rebuilt" motor without prj, tischler or my name on it would be a gamble dude

 

[1quick]

Aren't built trans about 2K+ installed?

It depends on how "built" the trans is, I pick up cars with burnt transmissions and throw stock ones back in them myself for around 300 bucks, but a built trans can range from around 2500-5k depending on what parts are used and it will still brake when you put a lot of power to it lol

 

[Yaj Yak]

rocker arm rust? wtf...?

maybe just rocker rust?

 

[TonzKnock-G]

I would stay away from any car with and extensive mod list and that has been recently rebuilt. You are just asking for a headache.

 

[mr.gto]

Why are the numbers so low?? 40 hp more that stock advertised? seems like a ton of work and zero gains were made

 

[1quick]

Why are the numbers so low?? 40 hp more that stock advertised? seems like a ton of work and zero gains were made

whp vs crank hp there is a big difference

 

[Yaj Yak]

my gtp put down 199whp stock.

 

[TommyGloves]

Just to add to the above, the NIC cam IMHO is not a good choice for a DD. It requires high idle speeds (~900RPM) which is hard on the timing chain and damper. Some say it should only run in open loop. It has some reversion which makes tuning more challenging especially at idle. If you were doing it as a hobby/track car and you could tune yourself then it might be an interesting project.

All the marketing around that cam "12s with minimal mods" doesn't speak to the time and effort you need to do to realize that claim.

If you are DD, I would not recommend the NIC. Just my two cents. If you want a cammed, M90 DD, a VS, XP or S1x would be much better choices. (I've had all 3 and I tune my cars FWIW.)

Personally, I would pass on that car.

 

[Bru]

Abort!

 

[ktraver97ss]

Just to add to the above, the NIC cam IMHO is not a good choice for a DD. It requires high idle speeds (~900RPM) which is hard on the timing chain and damper. Some say it should only run in open loop. It has some reversion which makes tuning more challenging especially at idle. If you were doing it as a hobby/track car and you could tune yourself then it might be an interesting project.

All the marketing around that cam "12s with minimal mods" doesn't speak to the time and effort you need to do to realize that claim.

If you are DD, I would not recommend the NIC. Just my two cents. If you want a cammed, M90 DD, a VS, XP or S1x would be much better choices. (I've had all 3 and I tune my cars FWIW.)

Personally, I would pass on that car.

/\ This guys 2 cents are worth about a hundred bucks. fyi
(that sound like a "most interesting man in the world comment" hahaha)

Abort!

That just mad me bust out laughing in the office. well played sir

 

[Euro]

I would pass on this turd. Rust alone would make me pass