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I
imported_snoop
Guest
the gains will be pretty big, a couple tenths of a inch on a blower pulley is good for a couple pounds of boost. i would say timing is WAY WAY WAY more effective BUT it is also ALOT more dangerous. you can blow a motor that way(snap a rod, break the crank, window the block). i would say, if you have the mods to support the 2.8 run it! it is alot safer than raising your timing. just watch your atap. if you dont have one, you got my #. call me dude.
S
sr71_rgl
Guest
I've been trying to figure this one out as well for the last month too. At this point I have enough air flow and air temps are cool enough that I could run a 3" w/no KR but I want to see how far I can take my motor w/my current mods using the 3.25" and bumping timing. On pump gas the most I can bump it is +4. I'm seeing a couple degrees of knock at this point and its keeping my timing below 20*, but I noticed a big jump in power. My goal is to be able to run +6* w/no KR on the 3.25" but it doesn't seem possible on 93 octane. I've been swapping plugs and have on new wires and can't seem to do better than +4 * TA which isn't a whole lot better than what I could run w/my ported manis and RTDP. Next year I'm going to hit the track and run the 3.25 and more TA against the 3" and no TA w/enough Torco to keep the KR down and see which one gets me down the track faster. Dyno pulls will also help make the final decision on the age old question of "whats better...more timing or more boost"?
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
Hey Nick, What oil are you running? One of the biggest problems with knock I've seen is from oil seeping in the valve guides. After an oil change I dropped 9pts of knock retard. When you did the cam, did you change the seals on the valve guides? Because of the cold weather, I'm now back to 0w-30, but I get too much seepage with it during warmer (50+)temps. I'd only do knock checks at WOT from a dedicated run. If you are going from 30+ and punch it, the transition into PE mode will almost always produce knock. To help that you may need to modify the TPS to get the voltage up sooner so it goes into PE mode right away.
S
sr71_rgl
Guest
Sup Ron-Originally posted by Ron Vogel@Dec 4 2003, 07:47 AM
Hey Nick, What oil are you running? One of the biggest problems with knock I've seen is from oil seeping in the valve guides. After an oil change I dropped 9pts of knock retard. When you did the cam, did you change the seals on the valve guides? Because of the cold weather, I'm now back to 0w-30, but I get too much seepage with it during warmer (50+)temps. I'd only do knock checks at WOT from a dedicated run. If you are going from 30+ and punch it, the transition into PE mode will almost always produce knock. To help that you may need to modify the TPS to get the voltage up sooner so it goes into PE mode right away.
I'm not sure I'm following you here...can you explain again? I'm running 5w-30 right now, should I go with a heavier oil? I know when Paul J did my cam he replaced the valve stem seals w/one's made from vitron which are supposed to be better. Do you think a leaking front VC gasket could contribute to KR? Mine is seeping pretty fast from the front these days and will be replaced next week. I should also say that when the happy knob is set at +0 TA I get no KR all the way past 100 mph using the 3.25".
S
sr71_rgl
Guest
Mike-Originally posted by Diavolo@Dec 3 2003, 08:06 PM
What is the happy knob? I know Ken makes it but how does it adjust timing for you? Is it available on ZZP's webpage?
You're correct in saying the happy knob adjusts timing either up or down depending on what you want. The real trick is to have your PCM reflashed to reflect different timing values for a different temp range. If the PCM doesn't have the proper timing tables flashed to it the biggest change in TA would only be +/-1 *. The table I currently have in my PCM allows me +/- 10* of TA B) ZZP sells the knob but CB will have to do your PCM changes (if you have a DHP).
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
Sorry, didn't go into detail. If the seals are new you should be ok. What happens is that the oil is sucked down the valve stem and mixes with the incoming charge. This lowers the octane of the gasoline quite a bit. I use the synthetic stuff, and I don't mind paying for it. I tend to get 5000 miles out of it. If you can find the Pennzoil synthetic it's usually much cheaper than the Mobil stuff. I used to watch my oil gauge religiously to watch for viscosity breakdown with long-term use. Mobil and Pennzoil held up equally well. Exxon superflo was the worst, oil pressure dropped dramatically after one week, that stuff sucks ass. I doubt that the VC leaking is going to cause KR, unless you develop a short in one of the SP wires from it. Oil control in the motor is always overlooked, by keeping the pressure in the bottom of the block and restricting oil up top you can build more power for a lot of reasons, this being one of them.