3800 High flow mufflers

iliveonnitro

TCG Elite Member
Nov 11, 2008
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Schaumburg, IL
The time is coming to get my custom exhaust routed. But I actually get a choice of what mufflers I get (gasp!, gotta love custom cat-backs). What do you guys recommend? I want something that will give the most performace. Sound only matters as long as it isn't obnoxiously ricer-like, or straight out of header-loud.

Also, this will be for my L36 GT. What size piping do you guys recommend from the cat, and what kind of T splitter, and what size piping after the T split? I know I want some backpressure, but I'm not sure how much.

My real goal is to get my car to consistantly pump out a low 14 sec run by the end of next year, without making me go bankrupt. So assuming I will (hopefully) be around 250whp when I'm done, what do you guys recommend exhaust routing-wise.
 

alexgtp

TCG Elite Member
Aug 3, 2007
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Well you have 2 choices.
There are bafled mufflers (which use baffles to cancel out certain frequencies to get a desired pitch/tone from the exhaust.) IMO they do not flow as well.

There are also straight thru mufflers. That have a straight thru design so exhaust gas passes thru unrestricted and unbaffled. IMO they flow better



There are many brands out there and each have their positives.

I have used all mufflers..


I have used FLOWMASTERS..Dynomax..DYNOMAX bullets
BORLA..and Magnaflow.

IT ALL DEPENDS ON BUDGET..LOOKS SOUND AND PERFORMANCE.

My ideal echaust for a GT would be a straight thru design with 2.5 inch tubing and removal of the u-bend and ss headers or slp headers.
 

iliveonnitro

TCG Elite Member
Nov 11, 2008
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Schaumburg, IL
Originally posted by alexgtp@Nov 25 2003, 12:20 PM
My ideal echaust for a GT would be a straight thru design with 2.5 inch tubing and removal of the u-bend and ss headers or slp headers.
Where would you get your backpressure from then? You wouldnt have any torque at all...

Besides, I want the best performance for my car, but that much of a loss of backpressure hurts a lot. Also, this is for a custom exhaust, so i can route it pretty much any way I want..
 

Fish

From the quiet street
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Aug 3, 2007
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Originally posted by iliveonnitro+Nov 25 2003, 01:18 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (iliveonnitro @ Nov 25 2003, 01:18 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-alexgtp@Nov 25 2003, 12:20 PM
My ideal echaust for a GT would be a straight thru design with 2.5 inch tubing and removal of the u-bend and ss headers or slp headers.
Where would you get your backpressure from then? You wouldnt have any torque at all...

Besides, I want the best performance for my car, but that much of a loss of backpressure hurts a lot. Also, this is for a custom exhaust, so i can route it pretty much any way I want.. [/b][/quote]
Backpressure=bad

Velocity=good. :D

Bigger means more velocity. You get it all back uptop. Besides, makes the car easier to launch. I dont have a full exhaust as of yet, but my 3" D/P and ubend and rez removed, didnt really lose any torque
 

alexgtp

TCG Elite Member
Aug 3, 2007
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Your car has back pressure. Remember you still have the Catalytic converter and the resonator. These will give you enough back pressure you need without reducing gas velocity.

FYI. some good info

A lot of people have different thoughts on backpressure, and often confuse it with Velocity and Delta Pressure...
I will now post a colaboration of posts from Purehonda.com

"THE MYTH OF BACKPRESSURE"

…is probably the most widely misunderstood concept in engine tuning. IMO, the reason this concept is so hard to get around lies in the engineering terms surrounding gas flow. Here's the most impotant ones you need to be aware of to understand the things I'm about to say:

BACKPRESSURE: Resistance to air flow; usually stated in inches H2O or PSI.
DELTA PRESSURE (aka delta P): Describes the pressure drop through a component and is the difference in pressure between two points.

One other concept needs to be covered too, and that's the idea of air pressure vs. velocity. When a moving air column picks up speed, one of the weird things that happens is it’s pressure drops. So remember through all this that the higher the air velocity for a given volume of gas, the lower it's internal pressure becomes. And remember throughout all of this that I’m no mechanical engineer, simply an enthusiast who done all the reading he can. I don’t claim that this information is the absolute truth, just that it makes sense in my eyes.

Ok, so as you can see, backpressure is actually defined as the resistance to flow. So how can backpressure help power production at any RPM? IT CAN'T. I think the reason people began to think that pressure was in important thing to have at low RPM is because of the term delta pressure. Delta pressure is what you need to produce good power at any RPM, which means that you need to have a pressure DROP when measuring pressures from the cylinder to the exhaust tract (the term "pressure" is what I think continually confuses things). The larger the delta P measurement is, the higher this pressure drop becomes. And as earlier stated, you can understand that this pressure drop means the exhaust gas velocity is increasing as it travels from the cylinder to the exhaust system. Put simply, the higher the delta P value, the faster the exhaust gasses end up traveling. So what does all this mean? It means that it's important to have gas velocity reach a certain point in order to have good power production at any RPM (traditional engine techs sited 240 ft/sec as the magic number, but this is likely outdated by now).

The effect of having larger exhaust pipe diameters (in the primary, secondary, collector and cat-back exhaust tubes) has a direct effect on gas velocity and therefore delta P (as well as backpressure levels). The larger the exhaust diameter, the slower the exhaust gasses end up going for a given amount of airflow. Now the ***** of all this tech is that one exhaust size will not work over a large RPM range, so we are left with trying to find the best compromise in sizing for good low RPM velocity without hindering higher RPM flow ability. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to understand that an engine flows a whole lot more air at 6000 RPM than at 1000 RPM, and so it also makes sense that one single pipe diameter isn't going to acheive optiaml gas velocity and pressure at both these RPM points, given the need to flow such varying volumes.

These concepts are why larger exhaust piping works well for high RPM power but hurts low RPM power; becuase is hurts gas velocity and therefore delta P at low RPM. At higher RPM however, the larger piping lets the engine breath well without having the exhuast gasses get bundled up in the system, which would produce high levels of backpressure and therefore hurt flow. Remember, managing airflow in engines is mainly about three things; maintaining laminar flow and good charge velocity, and doing both of those with varying volumes of air. Ok, so now that all this has been explained, let's cover one last concept (sorry this is getting so long, but it takes time to explain things in straight text!).

This last concept is why low velocity gas flow and backpressure hurt power production. Understand that during the exhaust stroke of a 4 stroke engine, it's not only important to get as much of the spent air/fuel mixture out of the chamber (to make room for the unburnt mixture in the intake system), it's also important that these exhaust gasses never turn around and start flowing back into the cylinder. Why would this happen? Because of valve overlap, that's why. At the end of the exhaust stroke, not only does the piston start moving back down the bore to ingest the fresh mixture, but the intake valve also opens to expose the fresh air charge to this event. In modern automotive 4 stroke engines valve overlap occurs at all RPM, so for a short period of time the exhaust system is open to these low pressure influences which can suck things back towards the cylinder. if the exhaust gas velocity is low and pressure is high in the system, this will make everything turn around and go the opposite direction it's supposed to. If these gasses reach the cylinder they will dilute the incoming mixture with unburnable gasses and take up valuable space within the combustion chamber, thus lowering power output (and potentially pushing the intake charge temp beyond the fuel’s knock resistance). So having good velocity and therefore low pressure in the system is absolutely imperative to good power production at any RPM, you just have to remember that these concepts are also dependent on total flow volume. The overall volume of flow is important because it is entirely possible to have both high velocity and high pressure in the system, if there is simply not enough exhaust piping to handle the needed airflow.

It’s all about finding a compromise to work at both high and low RPM on most cars, but that’s a bit beyond the scope of this post. All I am trying to show here is how the term backpressure is in reference to a bad exhaust system, not one that creates good low RPM torque. You can just as easily have backpressure at low RPM too, which would also hurt low RPM cylinder scavenging and increase the potential for gas reversion. And understand that these tuning concepts will also affect cam timing, though that is again probably beyond the scope of this post. At any rate, hope this helps, peace. "

-here's a reply to the above post-

"I've been seeing a resurgence of the backpressure misnomer, but didn't have the time or inclination to write it up. So, again, thanks.

There is one thing I'd like to add to texan's work:
Exhaust Scavenging
In essence, this is the opposite of the exhaust reversion that texan describes.

Reversion: at the beginning of the intake stroke during cam overlap, exaust gas in the header is under high pressure (negative delta P) and is pushed back into the cylinder, diluting the new air/fuel charge.

Scavenging: at the beginning of the intake stroke during cam overlap, the momentum of the exiting exhaust gasses creates a brief vacuum (positive delta P) in the header, pulling out the remaining exhaust gases from the combustion chamber, and allowing the new air/fuel charge to be full-strength.

Scavenging is also the reason for differently shaped headers (4-2-1, 4-1) and collectors. We use the momentum of exiting exhaust from one cylinder to scavenge exhaust from another that is next in the firing order! The different shapes allow for this to happen at different airflow velocities thus at different RPM bands.

Scavenging takes advantage of the momentum of the exiting gasses. In essence, the fast moving exhaust pulse pulls a vacuum behind it. Momentum is mass times velocity. So not only do we need to keep the velocity high to prevent reversion - but it greatly improves the scavenging effect.

Thus we have a balancing act (as others have pointed out). We want to minimize friction to lower the backpressure as much as possible - larger pipes have less friction because they have less surface area per unit volume. But we want to increase the delta P as much as possible to prevent reversion and increase scavenging effects - smaller pipes increase delta P because they increase velocity.

There are lots of tricks to try to widen the useful RPM band (stepped headers) or to increase the overall effiency (ceramic coated exhausts), but it's still subject to this basic tradeoff:
Friction vs. Velocity
AKA: Backpressure vs. Delta Pressure
You want low friction and high velocity.
You want low backpressure and high positive delta pressure. "
 

iliveonnitro

TCG Elite Member
Nov 11, 2008
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Schaumburg, IL
Yeah so, uh...how exactly should I route my exhuast?



I understand that whole concept, but I don't really have the money to toss around playing with different setups. So from the cat-back, what would you guys recommend as far as routing my exhaust? Stock location? Mandrel bending? What sizes to where, and should it split? To where? Hell, I have an idea Draw it for me in MS paint :)

Thanks
 

LPSPEED2

TCG Elite Member
Nov 10, 2008
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Addison
CATBAK.jpg
 

sweetness

Addict
Nov 12, 2008
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cliff notes version of the really long post that i didn't read.:

larger isn't necessarily better.
a 3" exhaust on a car that could be just fine with a 2.5" exhaust is going to suffer. period.

On the gt you don't want ANYTHING bigger than 2.5" unless you plan on going forced induction in the future. You will be completely outflowing your engine, and it will suffer. To be honest i don't think you should go beyond 2.25", but a lot of poeple are going to jump on that and tell us about how great their 3" exhaust is. ;)

IMO you are better served getting mufflers you like and a SLIGHTLY larger exhaust. S&S to a 2.25" cat back would be perfect for a modded GT. If you plan on a turbo (just wait.. there might be one coming out locally soon ;) ;) ) or a CSC then get a larger exhaust than 2.25". If you don't then i would not go any larger than 2.5", but i really think 2.25" is fine.

BC

btw.. stock is 2.0"
 

Royalgtp

TCG Elite Member
Dec 24, 2008
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WEll, its write up form honda tech....hemmm

I have read on many sites, including BORLAs to name a few, how everyone thinks bigger is always way better for exhaust. The bigger your pipes are the faster the exhaust gases COOL.......the slower it goes. The hotter it is and stays, the faster the exhaust gases will travel. WHich is part of the reasons for coatings and wraping headers/exhaust....Ideally, you want super hot gas in a smaller pipe then cooler gas in a big pipe.

3inch exhaust for a GT has to be way to big. I think even for a lightly- medium moded GTP its way to much.

to each his own.
 

Royalgtp

TCG Elite Member
Dec 24, 2008
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Originally posted by Fish@Nov 25 2003, 01:22 PM

Backpressure=bad

Velocity=good. :D

Bigger means more velocity.
Bigger means more volume....not velocity.

velocity is speed. Having bigger pipes will not give you more velocity.

Take for example a liquid. IF you had a fire hose @ 4 inches and fed the same amount of water through it as compared to a 1inch house, you would have more volume in the 4inch(GPM), and more velocity(psi) in the 1 inch house. ;)
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

Guest
I agree with Royal on this one. I wasn't getting good scavenging on my exhaust until I wrapped it front to back. Keeping the gases hot and flowing is the key. There is a local shop in Naperville that works with 2.75" pipe and I plan on doing My 3"DP to 3" cat to 2.75"pipe to 3" resonator, then reducer to 2.75" pipe to y, then 2.25" out to back with no mufflers. These performance mufflers make the car too loud, it was quieter for me when I ran no mufflers. I can get thick walled 2.25" aluminum pipe, the last 2 feet of my exhaust will have this on, should quiet down any resonance. Then I'm wrapping the whole thing again.
 
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