Any 3800 shops near Chicago

rowekmr

Addict
Jan 8, 2012
850
661
Chicago
Hello
I just bought my first 3800 in a 02 Regal GS with a XP cam, 3.2 pulley, headers, DP, Magnaflow cat and free flowing exhaust, NA trans with 3.29 ration, 12" brakes and HD diff and other parts that I need someone to go over. There are a few wires/harnesses loose (not connected) and my dash lights are on. The car runs and drives but I think the driveability can be improved. Any good shops near Chicago. I talked to Paul at PRJ but that is a 3 hour drive each wayand would like to cut back on the driving if I can.
 

rowekmr

Addict
Jan 8, 2012
850
661
Chicago
Okay I will give you what I know.
I bought the car with disclosure it needs shocks and tires. It also had a bad battery so after sitting 5-10 minutes it goes dead. When I started it the ABS, check engine and traction control lights came on. The previous owner said the XP cam causes the check engine light to come on and once I have someone reset the code it will stay off. He also said the 12" brake upgrade caused the ABS to activate when stopping so he pulled the fuse. He thought the ABS was reading a different brake pressure from the different sized calipers. My understanding is the ABS uses wheel speed sensors among other input so I wondered if a wheel speed sensor is a potential source of problem.
When I restarted it today (jumped battery) the check engine light didn't come on until I picked it up from the shop.
The speedometer isn't working and the previous owner said he replaced the HD trans with one out of a LS (normally aspirated) and put the HD differential on and the speedometer worked for 100 miles that he drove it. The car sat before I bought it.
I got a new battery and struts today at Pep Boys and they pulled codes and said that their are codes triggered related to the VSS, EGR and wheel speed sensor. The mech wouldn't elaborate on the codes because the car is modified and for some reason he seemed upset about it (?).
While the car was on the lift I saw 2 harnesses hanging from the center of the cradle and wonder if they can be the source of some of my problems.
The passenger ball joint retaining nut was loose, the sway bar was disconnected and the lower engine mount wasn't secured (no nuts). I had them tighten the ball joint, they didnt' carry nuts for the engine mount and to get the sway bar end links and attaching bracket I had to buy their sway bar. I brought it up with the previous owner and he apologized about some of the problems blaming "his friend" who was supposed to fix things and he claimed he didn't know about the ball joint being loose although he claimed to replace the front drive shafts recently (mech verified they were replaced). Luckily I trailered the car the 200 miles home because it was an accident waiting to happen. The boost gauge reads zero except about 3800 rpm when it starts reading but I haven't pushed the car much since the engine mount is loose.
I am thinking this car was a hack job and need someone really knowledgeable that can tie up the loose ends (wires/harnesses) and explain some things.

What I would want:
I need it to pass emissions testings here, I want the speedometer to work, I want the factory boost gauge to work, I would like the ABS.traction control to work if possible but it's not mandatory. I like the clean body and the interior otherwise I would just park it in my yard because I got problems with my other cars.

If you post more details we may be able to pinpoint the problems and get it fixed faster and cheaper
 

02BlueGT

No Fucks Have Been Given
Feb 21, 2008
9,922
18
Now apearing in Hanover Park
Okay I will give you what I know.
I bought the car with disclosure it needs shocks and tires. It also had a bad battery so after sitting 5-10 minutes it goes dead. When I started it the ABS, check engine and traction control lights came on. The previous owner said the XP cam causes the check engine light to come on and once I have someone reset the code it will stay off. He also said the 12" brake upgrade caused the ABS to activate when stopping so he pulled the fuse. He thought the ABS was reading a different brake pressure from the different sized calipers. My understanding is the ABS uses wheel speed sensors among other input so I wondered if a wheel speed sensor is a potential source of problem.
When I restarted it today (jumped battery) the check engine light didn't come on until I picked it up from the shop.
The speedometer isn't working and the previous owner said he replaced the HD trans with one out of a LS (normally aspirated) and put the HD differential on and the speedometer worked for 100 miles that he drove it. The car sat before I bought it.
I got a new battery and struts today at Pep Boys and they pulled codes and said that their are codes triggered related to the VSS, EGR and wheel speed sensor. The mech wouldn't elaborate on the codes because the car is modified and for some reason he seemed upset about it (?).
While the car was on the lift I saw 2 harnesses hanging from the center of the cradle and wonder if they can be the source of some of my problems.
The passenger ball joint retaining nut was loose, the sway bar was disconnected and the lower engine mount wasn't secured (no nuts). I had them tighten the ball joint, they didnt' carry nuts for the engine mount and to get the sway bar end links and attaching bracket I had to buy their sway bar. I brought it up with the previous owner and he apologized about some of the problems blaming "his friend" who was supposed to fix things and he claimed he didn't know about the ball joint being loose although he claimed to replace the front drive shafts recently (mech verified they were replaced). Luckily I trailered the car the 200 miles home because it was an accident waiting to happen. The boost gauge reads zero except about 3800 rpm when it starts reading but I haven't pushed the car much since the engine mount is loose.
I am thinking this car was a hack job and need someone really knowledgeable that can tie up the loose ends (wires/harnesses) and explain some things.

What I would want:
I need it to pass emissions testings here, I want the speedometer to work, I want the factory boost gauge to work, I would like the ABS.traction control to work if possible but it's not mandatory. I like the clean body and the interior otherwise I would just park it in my yard because I got problems with my other cars.

Well, depending how your pushing the throttle, you can get to redline without building boost, so that may be fine.

The only cables that low on the cradle are the:

Wheel speed sensor(s)
VSS
Oil pressure switch
Power steering wires ( if you have magnasteer)
Rear 02 (front may hang, but not that low


The lower mount uses the same nuts as the torque straps IIRC, so you can pull one and see if it fits. If it does, bring it to ACE and buy some proper nutz :pedobear:


If you have a cam and a Check engine Light from it, chances are that the car was not tuned for the cam and you are running stock tune.


You are probably right on this being a hack job special. You may need to spend a good amount of Time or money (or both) to sort everything out.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
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Jun 16, 2007
32,541
15,849
hangover park IL
wire hang down to the rear of the car/oilpan behind rf tire?

or are they in front of the engine oil pan near the middle of the car?

id say there's a possibility dufuss broke the vss connector clip since from the factory they have a secondary lock that must be pulled back before the tab can be pressed and it releases.

it likely fell off and would trigger the abs and vss codes
look around for pinched wires, make sure the ground and power cables are clean, remove the battery terminal bolts and slide the red and black sleeves off and check for corrosion at the terminal to wire crimp
take pics of connectors and get a good batery and check for parasitic draw
 

01abboud

Not quite as new here...
Aug 19, 2011
164
0
Alexandria, VA
The description on RGS.org said that it was never tuned for the 3.29 ratio... so at the very least, that needs to happen. Between that, and the harnesses unplugged, that would explain the lights on everywhere! Until you get that gear ratio changed, the trans is going to feel HORRIBLE... and if you drive it much, you'll most likely end up walking, because the limp mode you're feeling turns the line pressure all the way up. If you DO drive it, be as gentle as possible.
 

rowekmr

Addict
Jan 8, 2012
850
661
Chicago
I found out about the car on CL but when I read the posting on the Regal site that said the trans hadn't been tuned so I asked him about it and he said he did recently tune it with his buddy's SCT tuner so I thought it would be alright. He didn't have plates on it and there was a strong storm coming so I didn't test drive it long. Judging from the car and his responses (or lack of) I can't really trust much that he said (or listed) to be on the safe side. The trans originally shifted hard after jump starting (been sitting) but since it has a new battery it seems to shift fine with firm quick shifts but with an occassional hung gear under slight throttle or firm downshift/TC unlocking when slowing down.
I won't drive it any longer until I can get that engine mount secure and someone knowledgeable to look over it everything to avoid future damage. The seller seemed up and up and I figured since it was also posted on a Regal specific forum it would be alright, I bought it for 2800 anticipating problems so I guess in the end I got what I anticipated :hs:

Thanks everyone for their suggestions/info at least I am getting pointed in the right direction. I had a 78 Regal turbo when I was young and had a 00 Regal LS when I started my family so I thought I would get a GS to finish things off.
 

PANDA

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Event Coordinator
May 24, 2007
38,011
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Wisconsin Northwoods
Not really any 3800 "specialists" in Chicago...

As shitty as it sounds most of these issues couldn't be solved by the local mechanic and are tune related. I would suggest you think about taking it to ZZP, PRJ, or TEP. Yeah they are all a few hours away but that would be the best bet.

A few local people will tune these cars (or at least fix the gear ratio) but not sure if they want to take on the work as tuning someones car is a big liability and not exactly a one time thing. Alot of people think tuning solves everything and also fixes mechanical problems.
 

01abboud

Not quite as new here...
Aug 19, 2011
164
0
Alexandria, VA
What Panda said. Tuning other people's cars is scary... but if I were you I'd definitely take advantage of the offer above to take care of the code and the trans settings! If you can check for codes, you'll probably see the one for "incorrect gear ratio". That's why the Torque Converter feels goofy and it hangs in the gears. I had the same issues when I went to 3.29s in my car until I got it fixed with a DHP. Get the issues sorted out, and I'm sure you'll enjoy the car. $2800 doesn't seem out of line, assuming there's nothing else crazy wrong with it!
 

rowekmr

Addict
Jan 8, 2012
850
661
Chicago
The seller said he thought that would be the code but when they read the codes they said EGR, VSS and wheel speed sensor. Tell me if I am going after it wrong but I wanted to fix the hard parts problems like the engine mount and loose harnesses first then work on the tuning issues. Maybe once I get the harnesses connected or repaired and parts the lights will go off?

Idk where you are at but i have an unlocked dhp i could disable the random misfire code the cam is throwing..itll take 5 mins
 

RICH17

Dr. Pussy Slayer, MD
TCG Premium
Nov 14, 2008
26,707
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The 007
Real Name
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I found out about the car on CL but when I read the posting on the Regal site that said the trans hadn't been tuned so I asked him about it and he said he did recently tune it with his buddy's SCT tuner so I thought it would be alright. He didn't have plates on it and there was a strong storm coming so I didn't test drive it long. Judging from the car and his responses (or lack of) I can't really trust much that he said (or listed) to be on the safe side. The trans originally shifted hard after jump starting (been sitting) but since it has a new battery it seems to shift fine with firm quick shifts but with an occassional hung gear under slight throttle or firm downshift/TC unlocking when slowing down.
I won't drive it any longer until I can get that engine mount secure and someone knowledgeable to look over it everything to avoid future damage. The seller seemed up and up and I figured since it was also posted on a Regal specific forum it would be alright, I bought it for 2800 anticipating problems so I guess in the end I got what I anticipated :hs:

Thanks everyone for their suggestions/info at least I am getting pointed in the right direction. I had a 78 Regal turbo when I was young and had a 00 Regal LS when I started my family so I thought I would get a GS to finish things off.
I dont imagine SCT being able to tune these cars right?
 
That generally buying something like a car off craigslist is a little sketchy.

People with a highly modded car like that would probably rather try to sell it on local and car specific forums (if the work is done right and people know the car). If I had a car with problems, I wouldn't sell it here, I would go to craigslist where ripping someone off won't kill my reputation.


I'm here whenever you wanna do the codes and tuning stuff just shoot me a PM sometime. Good luck getting the hard parts fixed, hope its not too much of a PITA lol
 
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