Bone yard blessing...trans swapping a DDRace car (story+pics)

AjL227

Do You Even?
Feb 19, 2008
759
4
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Lost a wheel stud on my L/F awhile back.
Ordered ARP wheel studs for mounting a more aggressive slick setup.

On back order for ARP wheel studs since July, I figured my transmission would explode heroically at the drag strip in the future.
With 80k miles on my stock tapshift trans' and axles, one day the transaxle sporadically started to slip it's way to a slow death instead...

The last 22k miles have been cam'd/e85, while not necessarily beating the hell out of it I say I drive more respectfully than most.
I did a filter change on the transmission at 45k, over 2 years ago. Since then all extra power has been added.

Start with the basics. I dropped the pan to change the filter, old one seemed harder to blow through. (both made in USA quality)
Same issues...slip 1st gear getting worse...sometimes completely stuck, shift into R and back into D or M and it'll slip but move.

2nd gear slips as well when opening the throttle farther and engine will free rev high quickly.
3rd & 4th gear seem to operate fine as does reverse.

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This time I dropped the pan and took down the accumulator housing.
Upon inspection, channel gasket and accumulator piston seals were okay.
Shift kit bushings were mushroom'd about 2cm, but normal.
Put it back together, same issues...3rd+ gear is fine.
Car sat for a week.

James calls me one day after work saying I am one lucky MF'r.
He found the only 2004+ GP in the junkyard and it is also a 2004 CompG.
With a production date of 5/03, this car had an L67. Most likely valve cover leaked oil onto the exhaust and it had a wiring harness fire that appeared to have lasted only 10 minutes or so.
Not surprising that insurance totaled the car, despite this it is definitely not it's trans to blame for it's current whereabouts.
Side cover on the transaxle was painted black, indicating it had been recently removed/rebuilt.
James had the cradle dropped out of the burn victim before I could make it to the yard from work in time, the torque converter was painted black too further leading the belief it was in good condition.
The yard let the engine and transaxle go for $250, and away it went into the back of my Toyota minivan.

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The next day, I pressure washed the trans at work.
It was at this point that I noticed it had a rebuild date stamped on the front case.
6/15/11, it read.
When I got home from work, guess what was in the mail?
The ARP wheel studs arrived, too late though.

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So here I am currently...unfortunately driving the van to work daily and swapping the trans in my garage in my spare time.
I will be posting more pictures as I progress. I may do a write up as well...who knows?

My 1/2" drive 18v took both axle nut's off effortlessly, and they've never been removed before.
However even my air hammer cannot knock either of these axle's out of their knuckle, need better air compressor or larger hammer...
Also need to grab standard size socket/wrench for header bolts, 6mm for ign coil connector, hex allen key for the last throttlebody turndown bolt (can't fit a hex socket) and other misc. things for other bull**** from my toolbox at my other home.
I figure while I am balls deep into this, I might as well replace PS rack (R/F boot leaks grease shit), engine radiator, subframe bushings and install cradle spacers that I've had sitting around for 2+ years.
...check back tomorrow for more progress.
Oh and if anyone wants to come wrench and hang out, beer and food is on me.

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SaturdaysGS

TCG Elite Member
Jul 15, 2007
4,986
2,003
Chicago (Southside)
Helluva deal! My stock trans lasted roughly about the same mileage. I drive aggressive and am/was basically stock.

Hate to thread jack, but are there any other good parts on that Comp G? Specifically the EBCM? If I did my diagnosing right my EBCM is bad which is causing my "service variable effort steering" and no magnasteer issue. 5 button DIC buttons in good shape? Drivers seat / center console arm rest lid?
 

02BlueGT

No Fucks Have Been Given
Feb 21, 2008
9,922
18
Now apearing in Hanover Park
My 1/2" drive 18v took both axle nut's off effortlessly, and they've never been removed before.
However even my air hammer cannot knock either of these axle's out of their knuckle, need better air compressor or larger hammer...
Also need to grab standard size socket/wrench for header bolts, 6mm for ign coil connector, hex allen key for the last throttlebody turndown bolt (can't fit a hex socket) and other misc. things for other bull**** from my toolbox at my other home.
I figure while I am balls deep into this, I might as well replace PS rack (R/F boot leaks grease shit), engine radiator, subframe bushings and install cradle spacers that I've had sitting around for 2+ years.
...check back tomorrow for more progress.
Oh and if anyone wants to come wrench and hang out, beer and food is on

Assuming this is the same as a L67/L36 IGN coil setup, the coil bolts are 5.5mm and the connector is 7mm.

Sometimes a 3 jaw gear puller or a standard gear puller works best for the CV shafts. But if you cannot get them out, just pull the lower ball joints, swing the knuckle outward and pop the CV out from the trans ends and let em hang while you swap everything else. Just be careful not to rest anything on the boots. Unless you are trying to change out the bearings.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
TCG Premium
Jun 16, 2007
32,645
16,111
hangover park IL
Helluva deal! My stock trans lasted roughly about the same mileage. I drive aggressive and am/was basically stock.

Hate to thread jack, but are there any other good parts on that Comp G? Specifically the EBCM? If I did my diagnosing right my EBCM is bad which is causing my "service variable effort steering" and no magnasteer issue. 5 button DIC buttons in good shape? Drivers seat / center console arm rest lid?

ebcm should be there, no gauges or dic/trim but i think the arm rest and center cons0ole was there with the shifter
 

AjL227

Do You Even?
Feb 19, 2008
759
4
Not much got done today, fell behind on time, nothing new that is picture worthy. Got the headers off, wiring harness completely out of the way, A/C compressor off, drained the I/C.
I Just need to remove the 'bitch bolt' along with the other bell-housing bolts, and the engine will be ready to come out.
Worth mentioning that I got the hood off and rested it carefully on top of the roof without scratching anything, all by myself.
#beast
 

AjL227

Do You Even?
Feb 19, 2008
759
4
After forgetting to bring home a can of rust penetrate and coat hangers from work 3 days in a row, I finally made sure to do so yesterday in order to proceed.
Once I got some spray in to the axle splines they finally popped out of the knuckles with a good swing. Pried between the cradle and axle "back plate" to remove them from the trans.
I removed the R/F strut in order to give me more room for removing the 8*TCH bolt.
I used four 1/2" extensions with a breaker bar to crack that final bellhousing bolt loose.
Then I attached my 18v drill to reel the threads out, and fished it out with an extending magnet.
I hung up the power steering pump with a coat hanger, up and out of the way against the R/F strut tower.
Pulled the engine up and now its on a stand, awaiting some paint touch ups here and there.
I'll be replacing the radiator, steering rack, and throwing in these cradle spacers I've had for over 2 years.
Also throwing on new hubs/bearings w/ the ARP wheel studs before it's all put together.
Still got a bit of work ahead of me. I need some rest for now. Here are the pictures.

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AjL227

Do You Even?
Feb 19, 2008
759
4
Nope, not even if I worked on it non stop to get it back together.
I have a new radiator, I don't have a replacement steering rack though.
Also I was sent the wrong lug nuts. I bought m12 x 1.5, but I received 1.25's.
Got that issue taken care of and the 1.5's are on their way.
 

AjL227

Do You Even?
Feb 19, 2008
759
4
Removed the valve covers to re-paint them.
Removed all the supercharger bolts intending to remove the blower to re-paint.
The blower was very stubborn and did not budge, considering how the aluminum gasket is less than 10k old and sealant was used I decided to leave it in place.
Pulled the blower snout and changed the S/C coupler.

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Masked off the intercooler plates and re-painted the blower.

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Yanked the trans out the top.

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*tumbleweed*

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Next up after work tomorrow, I will clean the cradle, power steering rack and every other part going back until everything is fresh.
Other things left to do : Install cradle spacers & cradle - R&R radiator - Drop in junkyard trans - Drop in engine - Re-paint valve covers - Paint lower control arms - ARP studs in new Timken hub bearings. etc.
 

AjL227

Do You Even?
Feb 19, 2008
759
4
Cradle spacers are installed. Everything is painted and drying.
Replaced the radiator, and installed the trans cooler lines onto the new fittings/cooler.

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The last rubber hose/line in my entire braking system. Replaced it with the stainless line beneath it.

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..Said stainless line in place.

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It is clean enough already...right?

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Prepping the junkyard trans...

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Transaxle into cradle...

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Engine bolted to transaxle.

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Just need to drop the front header in and align it with the crossover and bolt both to the heads.
Only misc. brackets remain before this thing moves again!
If I don't finish later today after work, I will by Tuesday.
 
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