Comp Cams 105# springs
- Thread starter monte2003ss
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AL's chain snapped on his L26/32 motor 25k bone stock, then a vs swapped in for 20ishK
then we put 105's on with the vs and it snapped another 20k later
took out alotta parts and we did put a new tensioner in with the vs
do yourself a favor and get a new oem replacement chain and gearset and a new tensioner and maybe check it in 50k or so.
or spend a bit more on a dbl roller and not worry about it
then we put 105's on with the vs and it snapped another 20k later
took out alotta parts and we did put a new tensioner in with the vs
do yourself a favor and get a new oem replacement chain and gearset and a new tensioner and maybe check it in 50k or so.
or spend a bit more on a dbl roller and not worry about it
you should at the least start planning for it
over the years ive noticed the oem chain dampers that have the plastic shoe with striations in the coloring (caused by the mold design/plastic formulation id guess) tend to fracture parallel to em and lose the whole leading edge which deteriorates rapidly and leaves the shoe pivot pin grinding against the backside of the chain.
Al's car followed that failure mode to the letter. he had been driving at a highway cruise for over an hour of a 4hr trip back home, she just shut off. i stole a truck and tow dolly and went to pick him up....yay
chain broke across the pin joints at both ends, with the backside of the chain showing evidence of grinding along with the damper shoe pin/plate.
the leading edge of the shoe was found intact in the oilpan, cracked right across the middle. over the years ive seen plenty that have the crack when i take em apart, the 06l26 that i pulled from hk's 04 has minimal wear but a nice crack across the molding discolorations. the cover gasket wasnt oem so im guessing it may have been replaced ...with/without the chain.
but lately the aftermarket dampers ive been getting are a lighter grey color that has no discoloration in the surface so im curious how they turn out, panda has one and hk's new motor has one.
i prefer the dbl roller...no tensioner/damper to worry about
machined or not bending valves and dinging pistons sucks. the tow bill sucks too
so does spending the weekend to pillage the front engine of the 442 and toss it in a daily driver in time for work monday morning
over the years ive noticed the oem chain dampers that have the plastic shoe with striations in the coloring (caused by the mold design/plastic formulation id guess) tend to fracture parallel to em and lose the whole leading edge which deteriorates rapidly and leaves the shoe pivot pin grinding against the backside of the chain.
Al's car followed that failure mode to the letter. he had been driving at a highway cruise for over an hour of a 4hr trip back home, she just shut off. i stole a truck and tow dolly and went to pick him up....yay
chain broke across the pin joints at both ends, with the backside of the chain showing evidence of grinding along with the damper shoe pin/plate.
the leading edge of the shoe was found intact in the oilpan, cracked right across the middle. over the years ive seen plenty that have the crack when i take em apart, the 06l26 that i pulled from hk's 04 has minimal wear but a nice crack across the molding discolorations. the cover gasket wasnt oem so im guessing it may have been replaced ...with/without the chain.
but lately the aftermarket dampers ive been getting are a lighter grey color that has no discoloration in the surface so im curious how they turn out, panda has one and hk's new motor has one.
i prefer the dbl roller...no tensioner/damper to worry about
machined or not bending valves and dinging pistons sucks. the tow bill sucks too
so does spending the weekend to pillage the front engine of the 442 and toss it in a daily driver in time for work monday morning
yup
its probably one of the best excuses to put in a cam and a strong timing setup, and since most of the time the oil pan gasket is leaking...and i find lots of split rear cover gaskets leaking coolant internally or externally...its coincidentally the best time to pull the motor and reseal it.
oh and oil up the rear strut towers or seal em if its clean enough
its probably one of the best excuses to put in a cam and a strong timing setup, and since most of the time the oil pan gasket is leaking...and i find lots of split rear cover gaskets leaking coolant internally or externally...its coincidentally the best time to pull the motor and reseal it.
oh and oil up the rear strut towers or seal em if its clean enough
Yeah... Not a lot of seals left that haven't been changed at least once on there... Is it possible (and not ridiculous) to do the chain without pulling the motor? If not, that chain probably isn't getting changed until it breaks.
I'm to the point where not much more money is gonna be dumped into this thing. The wife is less excited about the Buick than I am. Thankfully, I bought the car in GA and have taken pretty good care of it since then, so there is no real rust to speak of, and I'm under that thing a lot!
Thanks for the insight, and I'll stop jacking this thread now!
I'm to the point where not much more money is gonna be dumped into this thing. The wife is less excited about the Buick than I am. Thankfully, I bought the car in GA and have taken pretty good care of it since then, so there is no real rust to speak of, and I'm under that thing a lot!
Thanks for the insight, and I'll stop jacking this thread now!
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