what lokar dipstick

1quick

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yeah it fills right next to the booster and almost all the way up aginst the firewall, the dip stick stays in the trans but the bushing works its way up then it leaks all over, left a quart or two in the gas station parking lot this morning on the way to work lol, the first fucking time i decide to drive it someware, im having a hard time geting the rear powerlog to seal up also, you got any tricks up your sleve for that ive taken all the hot pipe off 3 times adjusted it and its still leaking on the rear crossover flange
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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its just a shitty flange design, you might be well off trying to install it witht he front and rear manifolds bolted on but loose (you are using the oem MLS exzhaust gaskets right?) so you can shft them around while installing the crossover.

when you put ht erear together and start to snug it up with a new donut doees the front flange (sans bolts) pull outta alighnment? this would point to your missalignment and show ya which way to move the rear/fronts to get em to line up.

barring that, lots of copper rtv
 

1quick

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its just a shitty flange design, you might be well off trying to install it witht he front and rear manifolds bolted on but loose (you are using the oem MLS exzhaust gaskets right?) so you can shft them around while installing the crossover.

when you put ht erear together and start to snug it up with a new donut doees the front flange (sans bolts) pull outta alighnment? this would point to your missalignment and show ya which way to move the rear/fronts to get em to line up.

barring that, lots of copper rtv

yeah i have stock manifold gaskets, the flanges bolt up nice and straight its leaking out from under the colar on the cross over side flange, will have to try the rtv
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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for that style of gsket the only good way to rtv it is to pull it off and with a new donut youll coat the Xover tube with rtv in the sealing spot, slide the donut on, and then coat both sides of the gasket conical faces.
the oem flanges do a good job of wedging the donut smaller as you tighten em but the zzp flanges dont really taper well enough to help crimp it on but with the rtv on the faces lubricating it they should crush it to the smaller ID its supposed to crush to and then it will seal witht he rtv filling any small gaps
 

1quick

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for that style of gsket the only good way to rtv it is to pull it off and with a new donut youll coat the Xover tube with rtv in the sealing spot, slide the donut on, and then coat both sides of the gasket conical faces.
the oem flanges do a good job of wedging the donut smaller as you tighten em but the zzp flanges dont really taper well enough to help crimp it on but with the rtv on the faces lubricating it they should crush it to the smaller ID its supposed to crush to and then it will seal witht he rtv filling any small gaps

Ill give it a try this week and see how it goes
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Oem exhaust manifold gaskets are better than the felpro ones?
yup, plus less $ and headaches

ive never used the felpro ones, but the stock ones can be reused over and over and still wont leak

oh they can leak, but a little care and they will last longer than the car

the only problem is the two layers are spotwelded together and once a pair are first removed from an oem stock motor grit/carbon/oils from the edges manage to migrate in between the layers. so pull em of and squeeze the layers tgether as you use a razor to remove the carbon/wipe it down, then you can blow/brakeclean em off and not worry about the wee bit that does get into there...after a few uses and on jobs where sealing is no1 (turbo cars with high exhaust primary pressures) i grind away at least 3 of the spot welds and clean em and sometimes copper spray em.

fel pro's are fairly cheap but having to scrape off that graphite material anytime you pull a manifold off, makes the oem stainless mls gaskets worth the time since if everythings clean you can just slap em back on in most cases

this is where i point out that the best time to blow/clean a motor is prior to service...sure beats masking shit off and usually prevents crap from around the injector holes from falling in when you pull the rails
 

BrianG

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x2 on the Lokar being a nice piece. It's a spensive one for just being a dipstick, but its great and runs right near the rear header with no issues. I do need to mount the bracket at the top soon and between the tight fit into the trans and the top bracket being locked down, the braided line becomes pretty rigid. FYI, there's a flat side on the hex fitting at the end of the dipstick that goes into the trans thats larger than the rest of the sides of the hex at the end. The large flat side goes up against the trans. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.
 

1quick

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is it possible that my trans dipstick bushing is worn out, i zip tied the dipstick so it can't move and the bushing still slid up an inch, i guess ill order the lokar today I need to fix my trans leak issue before tuesday, also the exhaust is still slightly leaking with a new doughnut gasket rtv'd in there
 
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