3800 KR probs with 3.4"
- Thread starter curado
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Mod list? Besides that when you car is cold the knock sensors aren't enabled until the temperature reaches a certain point which according to my stock computer file is 162* under that they aren't working. You know what that means right? Also 11psi seems kinda high, if i were to guess you don't have very much exhaust work or you did that when it was cold ass hell outside which would still be kinda high but nothing out of the norm.
Shit. You're right. Totally invalidates that scan then. 161.59 is my knock sensor enable temp. It took it a while to warm up even parked in the garage. It was just getting to 180 by the end of that scan.
Mods: Hole-sawed air box with clean filter, 104s, 180 stat, 3.4", wideband in the manifold, EGR disabled at time of scan, and 3" randomtech downpipe with wbodystore 3" cat <-- most restrictive cat ever?. 28 degrees outside.
Someone told me to try a fuel additive to check for false knock...
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Id get more mods before running a 3.4 daily. Hell, I slammed on my gas today to hear that beautiful whine of mine, then I hit the recall on the scanmaster and saw 5* of KR.I forgot to put my stock pulley back on.
What did you use to get down the 1/4th? (gas wise)
well the ultra cold weather plus the 3.4 without headers is going to result in your current kr problem. Headers oughta free up the exhaust enough to lower that kr to a reasonable level. Until then if you see fit i would put a stock pulley on for the winter so you don't accidentally hurt the motor. Unlikely but a possibility nonetheless. If that isn't an option just don't get on it lol. I would skip the fuel additive idea to find false kr, it isn't false the mod list just isn't enough to flow for a 3.4 pulley, hence the 11psi. Should spike at 10 tops in this cold weather anything on top of that without an i/c results in... you guessed it, kr.
once i got an aftermarket PCM my kr jumped up a few degrees, then when i installed my TOGs that KR disappeared.
Well I'm glad there's nothing too abnormal about my car then. Sounds like I need to address the flow. Maybe this tuning guide is a little misinforming?
http://wiki.opentuner3800.com/index.php?title=Introduction
And his tuning was accomplished with a narrowband?
In the past, I was plagued with massive flash KR and finally after trying out a suggestion of starting out with a 2002 GTP bin, this file in conjunction with a 3.4 pulley, I had incredible success with. We are talking WOT O2s of 920-930, idle/cruise timing of 45, WOT timing of 22 degrees (+6 over stock!) and no KR. All this was made on 87 octane fuel!!
http://wiki.opentuner3800.com/index.php?title=Introduction
And his tuning was accomplished with a narrowband?
lol sounds like a bunch of bullshit to me, 22* of timing with 87 octane on a stock ass pulley with more supporting mods than you have wouldn't be unachievable, and this person claims a 3.4?! haha! Yeah right... I guess i could say i ran a 1.75 pulley as my only mod and couldn't afford 93 so i put in 87 and it was knock free all day everyday, would that hold any water? I understand you're new to this, but you should get more opinions, kinda like here. Us w-body peeps stick together and we're always more than willing to help you out anytime. 
Ninja edit: I just read the link and lol to that, there's plenty of people running deep into the 12's and even into the 11's that get close to 30mpg's on the highway you can have both performance and mpg's in one combo if you know what you're doing. I get great mpg's now that i'm back on 93 octane (22/29) on 60# injectors lol, letting my car warm up for 10-15 min every time i drive it. It's a race car, so the race oil has to heat up before i can drive it lol.
Ninja edit: I just read the link and lol to that, there's plenty of people running deep into the 12's and even into the 11's that get close to 30mpg's on the highway you can have both performance and mpg's in one combo if you know what you're doing. I get great mpg's now that i'm back on 93 octane (22/29) on 60# injectors lol, letting my car warm up for 10-15 min every time i drive it. It's a race car, so the race oil has to heat up before i can drive it lol.
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I was a former w-body owner a few cars ago prior to this car but I'm new to w-body tuning. I thought that guide would be a good benchmark for a successful tune. If he's totally full of shit, then the picture is clearer now.
I figured a 3.4 would mean:
Fuel enrichment - moderate
Spark - stock to moderate increase ok (based on the tuning genius)
Flow - requires better than stock but not aggressive (some backpressure ok)
Output temps - borderline KR / limiting factor (reason for AL104s, 180 stat)
I can probably juggle flow and output temps around. Anything against methanol kits?
I figured a 3.4 would mean:
Fuel enrichment - moderate
Spark - stock to moderate increase ok (based on the tuning genius)
Flow - requires better than stock but not aggressive (some backpressure ok)
Output temps - borderline KR / limiting factor (reason for AL104s, 180 stat)
I can probably juggle flow and output temps around. Anything against methanol kits?
How come you put your WB in the manifold? By this I'm assuming you mean directly into the exhaust mani near one of the heads and not in the y-pipe. Generally you want to keep a WB a somewhat far from the engine to avoid excessive heat, plus you want to at least make sure that it's reading the AFRs from both banks.
It's in the front manifold. Figured the cat would interfere with it otherwise.
One thing that is really pissing me off is the DHP software. It logs about 500 rows of ADC inputs, then my O2 volt just stays the same. So I have a log of 500 rows of useful info and the rest says "2.25 V" from that point on until I click Disconnect / Connect again.
One thing that is really pissing me off is the DHP software. It logs about 500 rows of ADC inputs, then my O2 volt just stays the same. So I have a log of 500 rows of useful info and the rest says "2.25 V" from that point on until I click Disconnect / Connect again.
lol sounds like a bunch of bullshit to me, 22* of timing with 87 octane on a stock ass pulley with more supporting mods than you have wouldn't be unachievable, and this person claims a 3.4?! haha! Yeah right... I guess i could say i ran a 1.75 pulley as my only mod and couldn't afford 93 so i put in 87 and it was knock free all day everyday, would that hold any water? I understand you're new to this, but you should get more opinions, kinda like here. Us w-body peeps stick together and we're always more than willing to help you out anytime.
Ninja edit: I just read the link and lol to that, there's plenty of people running deep into the 12's and even into the 11's that get close to 30mpg's on the highway you can have both performance and mpg's in one combo if you know what you're doing. I get great mpg's now that i'm back on 93 octane (22/29) on 60# injectors lol, letting my car warm up for 10-15 min every time i drive it. It's a race car, so the race oil has to heat up before i can drive it lol.
A guy who is so full of bullshit that DHP and HPT both look towards him for V6 tuning. Yeah, I guess........
A guy who is so full of bullshit that DHP and HPT both look towards him for V6 tuning. Yeah, I guess........
prove him at least 1/2 right, Run the same timing on your stock pulley kr free, then put in 87 and do it again. Thank you for playing you lose.
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02SSEi said:
and from the Wiki:
sorry 11sec, a little reading....... if he has a cam, headers, and some other mods, I could see full timing on a 3.4, especially if he is running an IC, sadly there is no mod list on the wiki.......
I don't care what you've read about his tuning, i want you to run 22* of timing with your current mods on 87 octane, you do that and I'll admit defeat. Until then seems like a load of shit, just someone trying to talk up how good they are at it, while fudging quite a bit of information. That is all...
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