💦 Detailing Detailing Aficionados Step Inside.

[SleeperLS]

I am going to place a big order on detailing products and get ready to detail the shit out of my car. I already have the pads and backing plates on the way. I ordered some lake country orange, white, and gold pads. I also ordered this neat product called CarPro velvet orange peel removal pads to use with my DA polisher. There are some pretty nice results out there with these.
CarPro Velvet Orange Peel Removal Pad, orange peel removal paint

I want to make sure I have all of the products I need to get the job done and also have a proper process. If anyone has any opinions on the products I have chosen or see something I am missing, let me know. I am going to take my time and detail the car as much as needed to get it perfect. If needed, I will take a couple of days. I decided to go with the CQuartz coating instead of wax or sealant. It seems pretty user friendly compared to the other coatings out there.Thanks gents.


The line-up:

Washing: Chemical Guys citrus wash and optimum no rinse(clay lube, and general washing post detail)
Clay bar: I am going to give the Nanoskin Foam pad a shot and I also have basic fine clay.
Paint cleaner: CarPro Iron X and CarPro Eraser
Polishes: Menzerna FG400 for first stage, Menzerna PF2500 for second stage, and Menzerna SF4500 for final stage
Protectant/coating: CQuartz and the reload spray when needed

Process:

-2 bucket wash with CG citrus wash
-Clay/Nanoskin the car using ONR as lubricant
-Check surface with a plastic bag over my hand and re-clay if needed
-2 bucket wash with CG citrus wash
-Iron X the car
-2 bucket wash with CG citrus wash
-Dry
-Tape off all of the edges, seams, and gaps as needed
-Polish with the velvet orange peel remover pads and Menzerna FG400 and wipe clean
-Polish with the white pad and Menzerna PF2500 and wipe clean
-Polish with the gold "jeweling" pad and Menzerna SF4500 and wipe clean
-Wipe the entire car with CarPro Eraser spray
-Apply 2-3 coats of CQuartz and let cure in my garage for 2 days

Click to read more...

 

[Shawn1112]

Make sure you post up a review on the Nanoskin and the Iron X. I have Iron X at home and will be using it on my 14 Jeep SRT very soon and was thinking of buying the Nanoskin as well to eliminate the need for clay. I just did a buddies 2010 black wrangler 2 weeks ago and it took me about 14 hours total going almost the same route as you. I clayed instead of Nanoskin, didnt use my Iron X as I'm saving it for my rig, and I went with the Menz FG400 and used a microfiber cutting disc, followed that up with Menz SF4000 using a Lake County flat white polishing pad, wiped down with eraser, then sealed it with Pinacle souverighn wax. Came out really good imo, and considering it was a cheap HF DA with a Lake County backing plate. Here are just a couple of pics

before shots, and all the paint was this bad



Couple after shots

 

[SleeperLS]

That turned out awesome! I will definitely post up a review and some pictures of what I do. I am looking forward to trying some of these newer products. Might not be the best idea for a newb, but I will take my time. Plus it is only a porter cable. I doubt I can mess anything up as long as I am careful.

 

[Shawn1112]

You will be fine, take your time, which it already sounds like your planning on doing.

 

[Bruce Jibboo]

[MENTION=60]greasy[/MENTION]

 

[Gav'sPurpleZ]

i might be in the minority, but a wash after the claying process might be overkill.

depending on what you are using the Iron X for, I would do it after the wash and before the clay.

You may not need all 3 polishing steps. the key is to tape off sections of a panel...hoods are good for this.
make a couple passes with different products and pad combinations.

the key is to use the least aggressive pad with "hopefully" one of the less abrasive polishes.

 

[SleeperLS]

Just using the iron X to help decontaminate the paint. I will try those test sections you are talking about and see how things work. I guess that FG400 does a good job of polishing on its own. Might just end up using that and the finishing polish...I guess trying the products will answer that though.

 

[greasy]

I am with Gav, no need to wash after clay unless you like wasting time. Also the only way you are going to damage the paint with a Porter Cable is if you drop the machine on the car.

 

[Frank Dukes]

i wish i had the patience and knowledge for detailing. i splash some water and soap around and call it clean.

 

[Turk]

3 step polish sounds like over kill and will take you multiple days to do. I did a one step on the r8 and it came out flawless.

 

[Gav'sPurpleZ]

3 step polish sounds like over kill and will take you multiple days to do. I did a one step on the r8 and it came out flawless.

hence the reason for test panels.

i would try the FG400 with an orange cutting pad and a white polishing pad.
If you wanted to go with a 2 step process, depending on any hazing left over,
i would go straight to the SF4500 with a white polishing pad or whatever finishing pad you have.

 

[Gav'sPurpleZ]

FG400 per Menzerna's chart has a higher cut and higher gloss than the
SI 1500 which is the super intensive polish I use with a white polishing pad and I have had great results with just the 1 step.

 

[Grabber]

Rule of thumb for me: Always wash after claying. Clay removes contaminates and dirt. Sometimes they leave the dirt on the surface and you're basically polishing that into the paint. I cannot stress enough how serious prep work is and how clean a car needs to be. It's fine not washing after claying on a regularly maintained car, but, not on a car that is poorly maintained.

3-steps are only applicable to cars with serious imperfections/oxidation. My old neighbor friend and I spent 27 hours each on a 1989 Porsche Carrera that was loaded with scratches and heavy oxidation. A 2-step didn't do much as we needed to get more aggressive.

With washing after clay, a quick foam soak and light agitation of your mitt/sponge is all that is needed to remove the dirt.

 

[jason05gt]

I never wash after clay. I just use ONR as a lubricant and it emulsifies the dirt and its removed when I dry. All of my cars get clayed regularly though.

 

[SleeperLS]

Thanks for the feedback gents. Definitely helped point me in a better direction.

 

[Gav'sPurpleZ]

unless you have rail dust or tar specs, the iron X might also be an extra step that is not necessary... i would keep it for the wheels down the road

 

[SleeperLS]

unless you have rail dust or tar specs, the iron X might also be an extra step that is not necessary... i would keep it for the wheels down the road

I keep my car really clean. I have had it fully detailed a few times since I have owned it and don't really let it get dirty. I do drive it a decent amount so I was mainly looking up decontamination stuff and that is why I thought about the iron x. Since I am using the CQuartz, I just assumed I have to get the paint as prepped and clean as humanly possible. Thus the ridiculous list of steps I had. Wheels could definitely use the iron x though.

I got all the backing plates and pads yesterday...very excite. I haven't ordered polishes and other products yet pending everyone's suggestions.

 

[Grabber]

Menzerna makes awesome products. Extremely little dusting, ease of use and excellent results. I've had a lot of success with Menzerna as well as Adam's polishes.

 

[SleeperLS]

So I went full retard and ordered all of my products today. Thankfully autogeek had a 15% off deal at the time or my ass would be bleeding from the rape. Since I am only doing a couple vehicles, I was able to order smaller volumes of products to keep costs down. And the list of stuff I decided on goes...

- ONR for clay lube and other misc needs
- Chemical guys red citrus wash
- medium nanoskin clay pad
- sheep skin and microfiber wash mitt
- some foam pad brush/conditioner/cleaner
- spray bottles
- assortment of microfiber towels
- CarPro eraser
- Menzerna FG 400
- Menzerna SF 4000
- Wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant 3.0
- Wolfgang Fuzion paste wax
- Wolfgang exterior trim sealant

I like detailing my car enough that I decided against the CQuartz for some good sealant and wax as I will be cleaning it often anyways. Menzerna recommends sf4000 as a follow up to their fg400 so I will just use a 2 step polish instead of my prior overkill plan even though this might still be overkill. I am excited about the paste wax to top it off. Supposedly the best shit out there for metal flake and dark colors perfection will be mine....if only those damn rock chips on my hood will disappear.

 

[Rent Free]

I demand pics of said vehicles!

Must have before and after pics too!!

 

[SleeperLS]

I will definitely get some. I keep my mustang pretty clean, but I am still looking for some really good results on that. I think the big difference will by my wife's outback. It doesn't get cleaned much at all.

 

[1quick]

I just ordered a bunch of stuff from chemical guys last night as well, im pretty excited to try out a porter cable

 

[RICH17]

Link of said porter cable?

 

[1quick]

Link of said porter cable?

I just got this kit with the pads and what not

Chemical Guys BUF_209 - Porter Cable 7424XP Complete Detailing Kit (13 Items)

 

[SleeperLS]

I just ordered a bunch of stuff from chemical guys last night as well, im pretty excited to try out a porter cable

Which chemical guys stuff did you get? I like a lot of their stuff. I am going to get their v7 or something like that detail spray down the road. I used some of their interior odor/bacteria killer on my wife's Subaru because it was a smokers car...took a couple treatments but you can't tell that it was ever smoked in now. Was going to get their 50/50 paste wax but decided to blow more money on a different kind which will prolly do the same.