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Old 04-10-2017, 06:16 PM   #1
 
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Default School me - First track day in the 1LE, and first for me ever.

I've been meaning to do a track day for like 5 years. Probably more actually. Now that I finally have a car that is practically made for track days, its time to man-up.

I have literally NO idea what to do here. What to bring. How to register and so on. I assume most are using the MVP tracktime guy, but otherwise no idea. I heard of hooked on driving, but I dont see any events for joliet this year. Once I get signed up, then what?

I assume buy a track set of brake pads? Am I going to need new tires right after? And I know its time to retire the old sport bike helmet for a real snell open face unit. Thats all I know. I hear rumblings of changing the oil for my car and playing with tire pressures and racing alignment. Im sure thats for guys that are good. Obviously Ive never been on a track before.

Should I bring people to watch or is this like at byron where you are separated from your family/friends when you are in the pits? Assume we are talking about AutoBahn country club.

Generally what would be a good setup to bring with me for my first track day? Any help or advice would be appreciated.
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Old 04-10-2017, 06:33 PM   #2
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laps inc is a good group to go out with too. they have classroom time (to learn the track/what to do and not to do), and instructors that go out with you each session.
i would run the car stock and see what it does. your car is still fairly new, so the fluids/brakes/tires are all still fresh. make sure to monitor oil/coolant/tire pressure between each session. first track day you aren't going to reach your car's limits anyway, no need to get track pads, sticky tires, and a racecar alignment.

bring family and friends if they're interested. there are plenty of really cool people you're going to meet in the pits. set up a chair near the group in the pit and socialize
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Old 04-10-2017, 06:37 PM   #3
 
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Should be very fun. I know I'm going to get sucked into this.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:47 PM   #4
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Look into a set of Carbotech XP10 or even more aggressive pads if you're only going to use them for track. They're fine on the street but my god the brake dust is terrible.

Brake fluid flush, I did Motul 600 fluid.

Torque wrench to check your lug it's before each session.

Tire pressure gauge since you'll want to lower the cold temp below normal as they're going to heat up a bunch.

I brought spare fluid but that's cause my cars a 14 year old Ford

Bring your own helmet, the rental I had was shit, wish I had just brought my $600 Shoie that's not snell but a hell of a lot better than what they gave me.

A tote to throw all the stuff from your car in (i.e. Floor mats, random shit in the car, tools while you're out racing, etc.)
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:48 PM   #5
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After seeing this I'd do fluid and pads at the very least.

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Old 04-10-2017, 08:07 PM   #6
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Pads are super important, but people are nuts about brake fluid. I just use some shit I get from Vato-zone. I bled them for the first time last year because I thought the pedal felt soft (it didn't, just hadn't driven the car in a long time) after 5yrs and at least 25 track days. Still on the same cheap shit rotors that I bought from Advance 5yrs ago too, cause our friend worked there and he would swap rotors for us without any trouble. I will finally change them this year, but that's because they have been through hell and back and I want to make something cool out of them.

I'm not saying "I've done this for 50yrs and NEVER had a problem" I just think a lot of people over-think their shit. Pads, fresh fluid, don't crash your shit with some stupid newb over-steer and over correction.
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Old 04-10-2017, 08:32 PM   #7
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Crack open the owner's manual. The Camaro will have recs on engine oil, mileage recommendation for track days, brake fluid type and burnishing of new pads.
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Old 04-10-2017, 08:37 PM   #8
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MVP Tracktime is a nice time

They offer Instructor ride alongs if you want.

They also have three run groups: Novice, Intermediate and Advanced.

Send @Feffman a PM or an email, I'm sure he'd be happy to tell you about it.
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Old 04-10-2017, 09:52 PM   #9
 
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I've done a few days with MVP. It was a blast and I learned a lot each outing. Try and get a different instructor each time out. I found some did more instructing than others. As a beginner ask a lot of questions if you have them.

Along with the stuff listed for the car and tools, prepare before hand. Talk to friends who have done it for basics. Read and watch videos so you have some idea of what you should be doing. Like what line you should be looking for, how to enter a corner, how to get the car settled in a turn, how to apply throttle, and so on. Having basic knowledge will help.

Don't go out and try to set lap records. Go slow, learn the basics, replicate the line the instructor has you on lap after lap, listen to the instructors and work on the things they tell you to work on, and most of all have fun.

One of the instructors told me something along the lines of "It isn't a matter of 'if' you go off track, it is a matter of 'when'. It will happen when you push it harder and harder.". At some point, you will out drive you skills, upset the car, and end off track. So keep that in mind when you want to get quicker and quicker. On my second outing, the third session, my instructor was impressed with me and was pushing me more and more. I was doing really well. We were flying. Sure enough, I felt like we were going way too fast in a turn. I had a little throttle to settle the suspension, aaaaand I flinched. I let off the gas ever so slightly. The back end came right around. haha It seems that warning was true. lmao My instincts and experience was not there. I learned a lesson though.
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:15 AM   #10
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I can see both sides of the Fluid argument. I've seen a few cars survive track days on stock pads and fluid. But I've also seen a ton of cars put so much heat into the fluid that the brakes turned to mush. My ST said a big F U after 3 laps @ RA on-pace. 1 lap to warm up, 2 hot-laps, and 4th lap I barely got the car slowed down in time for Turn 8 @ RA. Thankfully I could have just got straight off no biggy. But I dis-like putting ANY wheels off track. It means I screwed up and over-estimated either myself, or the car. My RS barely put a dent in the brakes, and the Rotors were warm but not hot. Could smell the brakes, but I didn't hear the tell tale "ting" sounds as they contracted while cooling. So they weren't that hot.

If I remember correctly, the 1LE 6th gen SS's got 6 piston brembo's with 15.3" rotors. I think, that as long as you aren't riding the brakes they stand up with stock pads and fluid.

Worry less about top speed, and more about braking straight, hitting your marks.

Show up with a full tank of 93 gas. Plan on getting really SHITTY fuel economy, and filling up every 3 sessions or so. When you start wailing on the car for 20-30 minutes at a stretch its going to suck fuel like you won't believe.

For tire pressure. The manual might have a recommended track cold pressure. As an example, my RS wants 42/38 front/rear for cold street tires. On track, they recommend 34psi cold front and rear.

Based on the manual I dropped my tire pressure to 34psi cold, but after 2 sessions the front tire pressure was around 46psi, and i had to lose 4psi. If I were to track the car again I'd probably run 32psi cold and see where I ended up after the first session.
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:29 AM   #11
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Also,

Remember the Golden Rule of HPDE day driving in your street car.

Shiny Side Up! Better to play it safe and drive home than tow it home. If you don't feel comfortable pushing it yet, then don't. Give anyone who wants it a point by so you don't have to worry about holding them up. Its not a race.

Ask for an instructor, most will require you have one if you are first time at track, or first time HPDE at all. Its an instructor's job to guide you, and eventually push you to find the limits. So if you don't feel comfortable at a faster pace, then let the instructor know.
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:34 AM   #12
 
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SA2015 helmet or even a 2010 if you can swing it they are good for usually 15 years from the date depending on which group.

If you do get pads I would recommend PFC or G-Loc and they make compounds you can put on the day before you go to the track and take off after. Stay away from EBC yellows I have had them on 2 cars and I find the braking points are very inconsistent depending on how hot they are.

I change my oil after every event. Another cheap insurance thing for me.

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Pads are super important, but people are nuts about brake fluid. I just use some shit I get from Vato-zone. I bled them for the first time last year because I thought the pedal felt soft (it didn't, just hadn't driven the car in a long time) after 5yrs and at least 25 track days. Still on the same cheap shit rotors that I bought from Advance 5yrs ago too, cause our friend worked there and he would swap rotors for us without any trouble. I will finally change them this year, but that's because they have been through hell and back and I want to make something cool out of them.

I'm not saying "I've done this for 50yrs and NEVER had a problem" I just think a lot of people over-think their shit. Pads, fresh fluid, don't crash your shit with some stupid newb over-steer and over correction.
It depends on how good your brake system is and how much heat your are putting into the fluid. If your brake system is undersized or on a heavier car where you use it a lot more, heavier duty fluid with a higher boiling point matters more and you tend to need to change it more often. I have boiled fluid before and it was not a fun experience to nearly go off track all for what is maybe 30 dollars and an hour in bleeding my brakes is cheap insurance.
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:42 AM   #13
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Pads are super important, but people are nuts about brake fluid. I just use some shit I get from Vato-zone. I bled them for the first time last year because I thought the pedal felt soft (it didn't, just hadn't driven the car in a long time) after 5yrs and at least 25 track days. Still on the same cheap shit rotors that I bought from Advance 5yrs ago too, cause our friend worked there and he would swap rotors for us without any trouble. I will finally change them this year, but that's because they have been through hell and back and I want to make something cool out of them.

I'm not saying "I've done this for 50yrs and NEVER had a problem" I just think a lot of people over-think their shit. Pads, fresh fluid, don't crash your shit with some stupid newb over-steer and over correction.
that's pretty amazing given the amount of rotor swapping at the track that seems to go on for s2ks
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:46 AM   #14
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I can see both sides of the Fluid argument. I've seen a few cars survive track days on stock pads and fluid. But I've also seen a ton of cars put so much heat into the fluid that the brakes turned to mush. My ST said a big F U after 3 laps @ RA on-pace. 1 lap to warm up, 2 hot-laps, and 4th lap I barely got the car slowed down in time for Turn 8 @ RA. Thankfully I could have just got straight off no biggy. But I dis-like putting ANY wheels off track. It means I screwed up and over-estimated either myself, or the car. My RS barely put a dent in the brakes, and the Rotors were warm but not hot. Could smell the brakes, but I didn't hear the tell tale "ting" sounds as they contracted while cooling. So they weren't that hot.

If I remember correctly, the 1LE 6th gen SS's got 6 piston brembo's with 15.3" rotors. I think, that as long as you aren't riding the brakes they stand up with stock pads and fluid.

Worry less about top speed, and more about braking straight, hitting your marks.

Show up with a full tank of 93 gas. Plan on getting really SHITTY fuel economy, and filling up every 3 sessions or so. When you start wailing on the car for 20-30 minutes at a stretch its going to suck fuel like you won't believe.

For tire pressure. The manual might have a recommended track cold pressure. As an example, my RS wants 42/38 front/rear for cold street tires. On track, they recommend 34psi cold front and rear.

Based on the manual I dropped my tire pressure to 34psi cold, but after 2 sessions the front tire pressure was around 46psi, and i had to lose 4psi. If I were to track the car again I'd probably run 32psi cold and see where I ended up after the first session.
plenty of this is your own driving or braking style too. firmer/shorter is better than less firm/longer or onnnnn off oopsonsomemore etc. i'm sure my more experienced friends don't cook things up to nearly the same temps my poor modulation does.
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:48 AM   #15
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i have a big list of all events here - https://www.pointmeby.com/events

i couldn't recommend bmw school more for your first track day
Windy City BMW HPDE at Autobahn South

this is a 2 day weekend event in joliet. novice has classroom sessions. instructors are very widely available, perhaps even required every novice session, and they will help. you'll get nice headset talk units so you can chat in the car easily. you can borrow a helmet if need be, else buy a snell 2015 one. they have more instructors than any event ever comes close to, and often many of them are not just guys that have turned a lot of laps, but have racing licenses and have won a lot of races. it's ***hands down the best way to start*** in my opinion. i'm trying to remember if i signed up for this weekend already or not... i have gone the last 2 years though.

you don't need to worry about lap times, more camber on your tires would help with the outer wear though. what you do need to worry about is brake temp and pad compound, at minimum you should swap in some high temp brake fluid like motul rbf 600 or 660. higher temp pads wouldn't be a bad idea, maybe some track day bros can comment on how the stock compound held up.

oil will probably all be fine and within limits and i would not make a huge point about changing it if you're not close or due anyway. i went the whole season last year on the same oil. sent it to blackstone and they said it looked great.
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Old 04-11-2017, 10:03 AM   #16
 
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I just wish I could lower my body panels like this for track days

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Old 04-11-2017, 11:38 AM   #17
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I must say that I would run the car as it sits for the first couple times. And you might want to try some autocross' first to get the slow speed feel for the car.
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Old 04-11-2017, 11:52 AM   #18
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After seeing this I'd do fluid and pads at the very least.

holy fuck
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:43 PM   #19
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you'll be fine running the car completely stock at autobahn, no sense in changing anything beforehand IMO. It's not an incredibly fast track. if you were going to road America or NCM then I'd think you should look in to changing the stock fluid and pads
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:51 PM   #20
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you'll be fine running the car completely stock at autobahn, no sense in changing anything beforehand IMO. It's not an incredibly fast track. if you were going to road America or NCM then I'd think you should look in to changing the stock fluid and pads
160 to 90 or so? 3 times a lap? Nah, that doesn't generate any heat!
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:40 PM   #21
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Yeah, it would be asinine to not put race pads on the car at the very least.
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:41 PM   #22
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160 to 90 or so? 3 times a lap? Nah, that doesn't generate any heat!
Where are you going to hit 160 at autobahn in a stock Camaro?
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:45 PM   #23
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Where are you going to hit 160 at autobahn in a stock Camaro?
I was going off the RA part of your comment. RA generates mad heat yo.

Just listening to the brake rotors contracting for about an hour after the car is cooling down is kind of funny.

Also, when I said 160 I was thinking of the new ZL1 at RA. Imagine it could hit 160.

Forgot the thread is about a 1LE, which would not hit 160.
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:47 PM   #24
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I agree, that's why I said at RA he should change brakes. At ACC the stock stuff will be just fine for a track day, especially being that it's his first one so he won't be pushing the car very much
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Old 04-12-2017, 10:00 AM   #25
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Where are you going to hit 160 at autobahn in a stock Camaro?
well it's easily going to get to 100+ easily and it's what, 3500+ lbs? fluid at a minimum... i'd say fluid at a minimum for any car or track really.

note you comment on RA which is faster; but it also has long straights and lots of room to cool the rotors down. blackhawk gets nowhere near the speed yet is hard on brakes because they have very little time to cool down before you're using them again.
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