Cam question
- Thread starter Xtant12
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Carbed or EFI?
Carbed is most likely pig rich, and the carb not responding to idle mixture changes quickly enough. Cold air and fuel does not vaporize well so it doesn't burn well until the engine gets some heat in it.
EFI is a lot better, but the problems are still there. Needs more idle tuning at that point. Perhaps the IAC tables need adjustment to add more airflow. I know that on my LT1 I needed to drill the IAC passage hole larger to add more air. Then I had to retune the IAC tables to reduce the airflow. The large bleed hole allowed more air through, and less IAC steps were needed. Aka, increased base airflow was required to solve Split BLM issues. The engine kept seeing a huge split where it was super rich then super lean.
Large duration cams relative to their displacement have poor intake charge velocity and have enough overlap that the intake charge doesn't completely evacuate. Its why their low-end torque is so abysmal compared to a more mildly cammed car.
Mine is efi, but I had to start it 4 times and give it gas so it wouldn't die. It died on me 3 times. The guy down the street has a sweet ass GTO. 69 I think, and I can hear it from my house when he starts it and let it run in the garage. Sometimes I can even hear him yell FUCK because it dies so much.
I was just wondering
I was just wondering
I started my ST5 cam'd E85 GTP when it was 22° outside and it started and ran just fine. If it's on pump 93 and having starting issues it's 100% in the tune, OR it could be shitty injectors, but it's probably not. I would expect shit like this from that place because they just do what they do, they don't go out of their way for anything that doesn't put money in their pocket. They probably put a generic ass safe tune in the car and left everything else alone, including cold start tables/timing.
hack ass? ok i must have been out of it for a while, I thought zzp where the good guys, intense were the ass hats, and the wbody store was a good place.
I think they did a good job with the tuning. My car kept dieing from the cam when it lopes at the right time if you gave it gas when it was at the bottom part of the lope it would die every time. They raised it a bit and fixed that. They got me 309whp when they took me off E85. I was 367.
BUT- they made several mistakes that ended up costing me in the end. The heads they put on had a sealing issue in the valve or something like that. Yeah they fixed it under warranty, but I had to ship the car back to them to avoid damage to the motor. And no compensation was given so it sucked.
BUT- they made several mistakes that ended up costing me in the end. The heads they put on had a sealing issue in the valve or something like that. Yeah they fixed it under warranty, but I had to ship the car back to them to avoid damage to the motor. And no compensation was given so it sucked.
My experience was 180° they other way. (Just buying parts online though, no service work.)
For example, when I bought a Meziere 3800 flexplate, ZZP and Intense both described it as fitting the L67. In reality, it's not drilled for the L67 torque converter. After contacting both, Intense updated their website, ZZP's is still wrong. They also listed it as in stock, but it took weeks to arrive.
I always regretted buy from ZZP and the W-body store.
That's the BUT I am talking about. They fucked something up and you still had to pay the price, if you were putting real money in their pockets I'm sure they would have handled it differently.
BTW, it's easy to tune the WOT areas to get 367whp, the real tuning is getting the car to run correctly everywhere else.
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