Dog bone flip on the 3800

EmersonHart13

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Jul 18, 2007
54,215
22,341
You rotate the bushing in the bracket. right now it is the rubber connects top and bottom with the open sides. Rotate 90 degrees so the bushing is now right to left with the open spots on the top and bottom. This is the square bushings, obviously not the round ones!



Car in park-lock.

You need (2) 17mm? wrenches or a wrench and a socket; a can of WD-40, and 1 beer.

Unbolt the 2 bolts (nothing will happen to you or your car). Remove the bolts from the bracket, and remove the bracket.

Take one of the bolts and tighten it down pretty tight on the front mount, there is a metal substrate inside the mount. What a couple of us did is flex the mount around to spray the WD-40 on the top and the side by the engine. Spray liberally.

Put a wrench on both ends and rotate toward the engine. One or two tries and mine flipped. If it is welded from the engine bay heat, it may take a little more effort, but the WD and a little flexing should take care of it.

Take the bolt back out of the mount, and reassemble. I put the bolt in the engine mouit first, then the radiator mount last. If it doesn't align, you can push the car backwards a little and the mount will line up.

Tighten it pretty good.

Should take about 10 - 15 minutes

(Don't quote me)

232819555O725610048-1.jpg
 

Freebeer187

The Bolt Rounder
Feb 2, 2009
5,334
10
Schaumburg
Quote from here.

You basically turn this....
stockmount.jpg


Into this....
flippedmount.jpg


I do it just as Scimmia described, by removing the torque strut (dogbone) from in between the part pictured above and the engine brackets just to get it completely out of the way. Then with the bracket still attached to the car, put the bolt back through the bushing and tighten down the nut completely. Then I take a flat screwdriver and pry the rubber bushing back just enough to spray some lubricant in behind it all the way around. A little WD-40 works good. Then I put a 15mm wrench on the bolt head and another on the nut that I just put back through the rubber bushing and begin pushing the two wrenches towards the engine. Turn them slowly to make sure you are not tearing the bushing and sometimes you have to work them back and forth a little bit to get the entire bushing to "flip" 90 degrees. Once finished, the bushing is now solid on the front and back which is where the engine puts the most force against them as it tries to move back and forth. Then just take the nut off and remove the bolt, reinstall your dogbones, and you're done.
 

Freebeer187

The Bolt Rounder
Feb 2, 2009
5,334
10
Schaumburg
I think I will. I do know that it looked very possible that the oil pan was leaking though. Lots of crap and actually some beaten areas. Im not expert but ya never know. I had a a tech at midas look at it.... :ugh:

But he was the regional manager and a good friend of mine. He also was the one that got me the killer deal on my trans rebuild so he was interested.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant. Consider starting a new thread to get fresh replies.

Thread Info