Serious post is serious.... lets talk about doing an 80e swap
- Thread starter RICH17
- Start date
Axles will likely have to be custom mated pieces, just like mine are now, but probably with shortened sections on both sides.
Trans lines will be all custom like they are now, routed through my cooler.
I imagine I'll need my flex plate drilled, welded, and balanced to accept an 80e torque converter. Possibly just use an 80e engine flex plate?
From what I understand, the wiring is the major beast of it all. The solenoids work on opposite polarity, or fire in the opposite sequence than what the L67 PCM commands, or something like that, which I thought made using a stock L67 PCM nearly impossible without some other controller accepting the L67 PCM commands and translating those into 80e commands.
Trans lines will be all custom like they are now, routed through my cooler.
I imagine I'll need my flex plate drilled, welded, and balanced to accept an 80e torque converter. Possibly just use an 80e engine flex plate?
From what I understand, the wiring is the major beast of it all. The solenoids work on opposite polarity, or fire in the opposite sequence than what the L67 PCM commands, or something like that, which I thought made using a stock L67 PCM nearly impossible without some other controller accepting the L67 PCM commands and translating those into 80e commands.
back on topic please....
just let me know when
Dave at TEP has the stock PCM cracked to work with the 80e transmission, I am running his ECU mod and haven't had the car on the street yet (LOTS of last-minute problems/lack of funding holding me up), but everything seems to be working around the lot and on the lift. I think he charged me $150, but it was plug and play simple and I can supposedly still tune all the shift stuff with HP Tuners. You've got to cut up and shrink down a 65 range switch, or possibly rewire one with an internal range switch to work.
I just used my stock lines and lengthened them by splicing in some pressure washer hose to route them as desired. I ended up going with the equal length caddy axles (was a toss-up on my car between that and the Bonneville axle...my ideal length would be somewhere in between the two).
I got a performance converter (non-viscous) for the northstar transmission and drilled a meziere L67 flexplate for it. You can actually end up with 6 bolts holding your trans on if you install studs in the block where the alignment dowels go (I totally just ground the heads off some bolts and epoxied them in there), and clearance the block in one spot, drill a couple of through holes in the transmission bellhousing (holes are already there, just need punched on through). My starter bolted right up and worked fine. The knock sensor needs to be moved, of course, and it's a good idea to build a couple support brackets for the trans on the passenger side of the engine. Mounts obviously are custom but that part was fairly easy.
I haven't been around long enough to know what your car is...I had plenty of room with my Park Avenue, but you may have to get more creative. Lots of crossover pipes may not clear the 80e...I had to hack mine up. Overall, it was pretty straightforward. I had lots more questions and concerns planning it out than I did once I actually got down to doing the swap. The thing is a beast...and they are all over the place in my area for a couple hundred bucks.
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