500whp coyote comp NA cams + bolt ons

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Rent Free

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9c59d27b7582354e22a95daa6f9a84fa.jpg
 

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I still think its less than what a paxton kit would cost. Sure paxton would make more sure NA is expensive but the combo here is pretty simple and works well together.

Best thing is could still bolt a centri to it like a paxton or vortech.

I just think NA setup doin 10s would be badass. Nothing overkill no drama no need to break a buncha parts just a simple combo that works.
 

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I still think its less than what a paxton kit would cost. Sure paxton would make more sure NA is expensive but the combo here is pretty simple and works well together.

Best thing is could still bolt a centri to it like a paxton or vortech.

I just think NA setup doin 10s would be badass. Nothing overkill no drama no need to break a buncha parts just a simple combo that works.

Even if it was $1000 less, I'd take an extra 125-150hp for that extra $1000 everyday. The blower kits are where its at on these cars. Skip the na mods, only buy what will work with or compliment the blower unless you know you will never be getting boost.
 

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With how easy these motors respond to TT or a supercharger, why would you waste that much money on a cam setup? Good lord that had to be an absolute nightmare tuning that thing with CJ intake, dual TBs, and cams.

its a single TB with twin 67mm blades. the monoblades are the ones that are a whore to tune.
 

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Even if it was $1000 less, I'd take an extra 125-150hp for that extra $1000 everyday. The power kits are where its at on these cars. Skip the na mods, only buy what will work with or compliment the blower unless you know you will never be getting boost.

Yes and no how many people here have a boosted 10 second car? Now how many people can say they did it without boost and and obviously less HP?

5.0 is kind of a small cube engine so like i keep saying 10s NA on a "baby" cube engine would be killer.
 

cap42

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This seems to be the same argument the old mod motor guys would have.

Don't get me wrong N/A power is usually the best but bang for the buck the FI route is always going to win. I'd rather slap the FI on and then get cams that work with the type of power adder your getting and make even more PAH!

But hey it's your money and car if you want to spend more of it to make less power it's your choice. :dunno:
 

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:obama:

Point still stands with correction. Slap on a Paxton from beefcake and make 550 all day, comfortably with no crazy cam setup and driveability hindrances.

Where are you getting driveability issues from?

it doesnt have lockouts on the cams and with VCT im positive you dont notice it at idle or low rpm with the vct doing their thing.

I highly highly doubt it drives or cruises around worse than stock.
 

Yaj Yak

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Even if it was $1000 less, I'd take an extra 125-150hp for that extra $1000 everyday. The blower kits are where its at on these cars. Skip the na mods, only buy what will work with or compliment the blower unless you know you will never be getting boost.

and it's not just that it's making an extra 125-150 hp peak.

it's that the boosted car's dyno graph would be a plateau and the n/a car would be a ski jump.
 

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This seems to be the same argument the old mod motor guys would have.

Don't get me wrong N/A power is usually the best but bang for the buck the FI route is always going to win. I'd rather slap the FI on and then get cams that work with the type of power adder your getting and make even more PAH!

But hey it's your money and car if you want to spend more of it to make less power it's your choice. :dunno:

Pretty much just backwards imo. Run 10s max out the NA setup then give it some boost.
 

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And how do you know it will drive like stock with a stage 3 cam in it that raised the peak power higher in the RPM, with an intake that makes peak power even higher and shifted the curve way above what stock was?

Agree but there is a difference between a quick responsive throttle and having ass driveability.
 

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and it's not just that it's making an extra 125-150 hp peak.

it's that the boosted car's dyno graph would be a plateau and the n/a car would be a ski jump.

I have 2 speeds 80mph and park i live in the land of wide open flat interstate so flat like you can see the curvature of the earth :rofl: you ever drove through North Dakota?

My car lives at 80mph on the interstate 99% of the time anways :rofl:
 

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With how easy these motors respond to TT or a supercharger, why would you waste that much money on a cam setup?

Different strokes for different folks. I know plenty of people with boosted coyote and some have problem after problem. With that added power comes added heat, wear and abuse on parts and so on.

I had a blast with my 2011 GT. Had it had a good trans I know it would have gone 10.x instead of the 11.1x it went. But I wasn't willing to put $6500 into a trans swap. Looking back, I wish I had done it. Because by now it would have had cas and went mid to high 10's. With no issues to worry about like the boosted guys. I also like the thought of an 8,000 rpm n/a build. But don't get me wrong, on those highway pulls I would be mad when I get pulled by ll those boosted cars. hahaha

Good lord that had to be an absolute nightmare tuning that thing with CJ intake, dual TBs, and cams.

The ECU these cars have plus the variable valve timing help out tremendously. Some said their cars don't have any lope after fully tuned. The big mono blade is trickier than the smaller dual bore throttle bodies. But many tuners have no issues with them. My 2011 GT didn't have cams, but when other tuners said the mono blade would never work, my tuner had it set with amazing drivability and great tip in quality. So I am sure with time any tuner can get it the same way with the cams.


:obama:

Point still stands with correction. Slap on a Paxton from beefcake and make 550 all day, comfortably with no crazy cam setup and driveability hindrances.

You will make way more than 550. Spend a little money on E85 upgrades and you will make 700+. THAT is the way to go. haha


i would still like 100-200 more wheel torque & horspower at 2500 rpm still.

No doubt that having more torque across the power band wouldn't be helpful in day to day driving. Who doesn't like torque? But unless you do a stroker shortblock or higher compression short block, it isn't gonna happen. If I were to do cams I would have gone with stage 3 intake cams and stage 2 exhaust cams. This has been shown to help torque across the whole powerband with a 10hp loss across the rpm. I would gladly give up that 10 rwhp for the added torque. At least in a full weight street car.
 
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