Is it worth going to 1350 joints for a car? V.driveshaft tech

[Bob Kazamakis]

It's come time to get a driveshaft made for my Buick. I've decided it doesn't make sense to have the original shortened seeing as it's 46 years old and the car is now manual. I'd rather not risk it breaking.

Is it worth the added weight and expense going to a 1350 u joint size from 1310? I "think" there's enough clearance by the tailshaft for a larger U joint. A moser pinion yoke kit is only $130 and a slip yoke is only $100 (unless the shop has a better deal). I'm not sure on pricing to get a shaft made yet but guessing in the $300-400 range.

Engine is probably in the 300-350hp range and I'm running a 32 spline m21 Muncie and a 12 bolt. Car is probably in the 3600-3800lb range. She is not a light beast.

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[Gone_2022]

I did not realize 12 bolts came with anything other than 1350. If weight is a huge issue I believe they make a chromolly version?

I have a 1350 on mine

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Pretty sure most cars came with 1310 joints and some with 3r's.

 

[Gone_2022]

Oh maybe stock I am just used to the aftermarket ordering pages for theses rear ends. It's always been 1350 standard and the upgraded 1350

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Yea....I have a 1970 Buick with a 1970 Chevy 12 bolt.

 

[Eagle]

1350's are good shit. But they really aren't needed unless you're making and applying lots of power/torque.

I had 1410 joints in my old K5. Those things were beefy. I actually broke one too when I had a leaf spring fail and wrap the rear driveshaft around the axle housing.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

The truck has 1350's. My biggest concern is the weight and stick vs horsepower, though my engine does produce a lot of low end torque for its size. Eventually it'll get a 455 built up with hopefully a bit of boost but the engine is a strong runner now so focused on the chassis and rear of the drivetrain.

 

[Eagle]

I mean, if you have plans for boost, I would just do it. 1310's don't generally stand up to much of a beating.

 

[Mr. SBF]

Vince @ VRN in Lake bluff charges $450- $550 for his custom driveshafts and they come with the 1350 slip yoke included. Just tell the shop making it what type of trans and what output shaft it has in it, like if you had a built trans with a vasco turbo spline shaft.

 

[Handsome Jesus]

Running a solid 3r in the Regal at the pinion yoke with no ill effects. Many T-brake launches at somewhere around 450 whp. Probably not necessary, but 1350 is a nice insurance policy. Establish where you would prefer the weak link to be, and if you decide the U-joint, make sure you have a loop.