Wideband AFR gauge install
- Thread starter Charlie_Boy7
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^^that, just take the pipe off, and take it to an exhaust shop and tell them where you want it, and have em weld a bung in, inless you got connections to anyone with a welder.
reason i say take the pipe off is because im not sure where exactley you want the sensor, and i doubt an exhaust shop is gonna wanna fight drilling/welding a bung in in an awkward spot.
reason i say take the pipe off is because im not sure where exactley you want the sensor, and i doubt an exhaust shop is gonna wanna fight drilling/welding a bung in in an awkward spot.
I was leanin towards an AEM digital gauge but haven't decided a model yet. Does it matter if the bung is before or after the cat? I was thinking id run the wire from a place on the exhaust that I won't have to go around the engine (if that makes any sense) for ex: straight up the firewall or somethin
18x1.5 bung, any exhaust shop will have it in stock. You'll want it around +/-20" downstream for your car, the end of the DP, before or after the flex-pipe but BEFORE the cat will be optimal and is what I always did.
The wiring is simple. (Roughly) You'll have a harness or controller that will plug into the sensor's harness. On the other end, you'll have a ground, 12v switched (You'll feed this with a fuse block, or off the Radio's harness.) and an individual length of wire which will be routed and plugged to/into the Gauge itself.
I haven't checked my messages on the other site, but I think I've got one from you. I'll get on that shortly. Hahaha.
The wiring is simple. (Roughly) You'll have a harness or controller that will plug into the sensor's harness. On the other end, you'll have a ground, 12v switched (You'll feed this with a fuse block, or off the Radio's harness.) and an individual length of wire which will be routed and plugged to/into the Gauge itself.
I haven't checked my messages on the other site, but I think I've got one from you. I'll get on that shortly. Hahaha.
Ah, so it will work.. thats actually where I was attempting to say i wanted it for that exact reason, but you worded it WAY better lol. And for that.. I thank you. Would you happen to have a pic of your gauge? The style i want most seems to only work with narrowband
Haha thanks man. Yea i sent you one tho. Depending on your reply i should be able to finish the exhaust and gauge install in one trip to the shop
This is not required...but I would suggest running the ground to the engine block. On the L67, you can use one of the unused bracket holes on the head. I believe you'll need a M10x20 bolt and with a ring terminal. This will help minimize voltage offsets of the AFR signal.
Edit: For power, you can use a Add-A-Circuit and use power from the fusebox. Use a circuit that is not used continously...like the power seats or power door locks.
HTH
Edit: For power, you can use a Add-A-Circuit and use power from the fusebox. Use a circuit that is not used continously...like the power seats or power door locks.
HTH
I have had terrible luck with Uegos over the years. A bunch of guys I know having similar results. I'm hoping that cool new FailSafe gauge of theirs is a bit better on the quality index, it actually looks like it could potentially steal my business back from Innovate.
(For Ref: Google Uego Melting or Uego not working.) lol.
On his car, he has the Bellhousing bolts about a foot from the Bulkhead's harness grommet. They've got a pretty well grounded dash frame though, so indeed not necessary.
And a
to the Add-A-Circuit, though if going that route, I'd just go with a new Cabin fuseblock for the ability to add more later. That little thing does look pretty nifty. My first time hearing of them.
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